dylan

PAINT THREAD

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If its old as in 80's or older then it will be lacquer, I wouldn't go straight to 2K top coat or urethane primer as above. Would want epoxy primer on there, its not ideal but you can block on epoxy primer and top coat straight on it as per the sheepers method. Use protec 408 have to just take of the waxy top layer then it blocks down pretty good. So you get sealing and blocking in one step with basically the cheapest good epoxy taht exists, then do single stage white 2k on top. Probably as cheap as you can get while still using decent paint.

Only thing with single stage 2k urethane on old cars is it looks super plastic spec and makes older stuff look like a fridge or something. Hard to explain but I'm not a big fan of straight colour urethanes and would go base + clear all day on my own shit.

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though im pretty sure the factory paint is straight white with no pearl or anything, ill have to see what it arrives. 

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80's povo toyotas generally is all lacquer or lacquer/enamel type shit. It hardly ever happens but the story is (and on data sheets usually)  if the OG paint is 1k solvent cured stuff then you seal it with a coat of sealing primer (which is epoxy) before you 2K urethane on top due to possible reactions. Again usually shit just goes on top of other shit fine but the epoxy gives you delineation between any old lacquer and/or body work and the new shit.

The 80's and earlier lacquer looks correct on these old things, it looks "thin" and just looks correct. Then you put single stage 2K urethane white on there and it looks "thick" like its plastic coated. I cannot word it well and just my opinion, but its just something to consider/check out.

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Said it's had bodywork, assume respray. Probably povo spec cos used Toyota fridge

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Just now, Spencer said:

80's povo toyotas generally is all lacquer or lacquer/enamel type shit. It hardly ever happens but the story is (and on data sheets usually)  if the OG paint is 1k solvent cured stuff then you seal it with a coat of sealing primer (which is epoxy) before you 2K urethane on top due to possible reactions. Again usually shit just goes on top of other shit fine but the epoxy gives you delineation between any old lacquer and/or body work and the new shit.

The 80's and earlier lacquer looks correct on these old things, it looks "thin" and just looks correct. Then you put single stage 2K urethane white on there and it looks "thick" like its plastic coated. I cannot word it well and just my opinion, but its just something to consider/check out.

I get what you are trying to say here....

Early corollas sprayed with orange 2k come to mind...

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I'd just rattle the repairs if he just wants to drive and enjoy the thing.

There's my shit advice for the day. 

/good enough for my fridge

 

 

This thread is super handy for backyard butchers like me though, so much info.

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yeah i get what youre saying too with the thin and thick. has given me something to think about for sure. could almost look powercoated which might look weird. but also im not sure if hes going to mind really. itll be a drivers car not a show pony.

i dont really want to rattle can it cause in 6 months itll look like a chalkboard. pl;us all the glass and trim are off currently, so prime time to spray it.

 

its not had a respray as far as im aware, but has had rust repairs and some dents fixed up. ill hopefully by collecting the car this afternoon so will have a better idea. might price up both options and see what he wants to do.

 

agree with Bling, this thread has been pure gold for the back yard hacks

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A good quality rattle can job will last years. Did one of my front guards in 2016 and it still looks perfect apart from a couple of stone chips 

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Just now, tortron said:

2k white will be cheaper than spray cans

that was the original dissusion haha. 

and rattle cans without some sort of UV protection on them can get in the bin. i did spray the advan livery on my mates mx5 with rattle cans and 2k clear overtop. it came out bloody mint, though has showen adhesion issues between the rattle can and clear in some areas (could have been a clenliness or technique issue though). the whole job cost less than 300 bucks, was done in less than 48 hours and has lasted years. all paint zero vinyl. 

mx52.thumb.jpg.6dbb8bde8c15451b80f2a1456fe52af7.jpg

mx5.jpg.ecebb3576a57e80cb1dc826594049b4f.jpg

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Talking about paint, I don't know what was thrown over my Hilux when it was repainted at some point in the past but where it's stuck it's stuck bloody well. Also the hardest paint imaginable, bloody thing can almost scratch rocks.

Meanwhile the factory paint on the Starlet will scratch if you look at it sideways

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I sprayed Morrie years ago with a Wagner airless sprayer

 

Tbh it worked mint for fill primer and then mattb

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Whats the go with getting overspray off tyres? Seen all kinds of techniques like wirewool or thinners.

Foolishly didn't pay enough attention and got a bit on the sidewalls. Not keen on destroying good tyres through using the wrong stuff.

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4 hours ago, CorollaGT said:

Whats the go with getting overspray off tyres? Seen all kinds of techniques like wirewool or thinners.

Foolishly didn't pay enough attention and got a bit on the sidewalls. Not keen on destroying good tyres through using the wrong stuff.

Just get a tin of CRC tyre black and brush it on.

 

Also makes old faded bumpers look like new

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13 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

Flip them on the rims so the outside is now the inside?

Asymmetrical so no can do unfortunately 

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3 minutes ago, CorollaGT said:

Asymmetrical so no can do unfortunately 

Flip them side to side though? 

Like take the left tire and put it on the right hand rim? 

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