dylan

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Awesome info guys, 

That kind of buffer you posted spence is what I think I'm borrowing for the job, but if it turns out its rotary only then I'll look at buying one of those, the corona needs a good buff up too and my daily stagea would fetch the value of the buff more when I sell it and go back to daily crown life if I got rid of all the light marks on it anyway so win win

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SCA have options too, as do other shops here, toolshed etc. Some priced in the same ballpark, but at least if it breaks you get easy returns. I haven't used either, so do own research etc.

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/toolpro-toolpro-dual-action-polisher-240v-720w-150mm/581559.html?cgid=SCN01011101#start=8

https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/7083-toolshed-sander-polisher-random-orbital-150mm?categoryId=1278

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On 29/04/2020 at 19:24, BlownCorona said:

After I colour sand the crown to fix up the clearcoat, what would you guys recommend as a polish? 

And will 2000gr be fine enough on the paper or do I need to track down some 2500/3000?

2000 was as fine as I could order from supercheap during level 3 lockdown but I figure it'll take me a while to get to the 2000gr stage

2000 is fine.

 

I use 3d products ACA cutting compound and polis, start with a lambswool pad on the buff to cut it and then a foam pad for polishing and then wax it or apply a coating. You will want a decent polisher, one that has a large stroke orbit like one of the rupes bigfoot, its what I used when I did car detailing. 

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that toolpro one looks to be almost a direct copy of the rupes unit quattro mentioned. tool shed unit has half the orbit throw so may not be as good?, toolpro one has some good reviews and recently ive been watching the skidfactory guys on youtube, obveosly sponsored by toolpro. but they did directly address the obveous change over from their Milwaukee gear to toolpro and how they were involved with stress testing it, apparently they were impressed with the gear, i guess that holds some amount of weight quality wise?

anyone used them before? currently on a great sale for a couple more days 

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Bought pretty much everything suggested above, went for the toolpro polisher because it had good reviews and a good throw on it couldnt find anything better for the budget. 

and a bottle of megs 105 and 205 + appropriate pads for each compound. looking forward to doing both the crown and the corona now. 

 

cheers for the advice once again. think ive done all the buying now and need to do the hard work of actually using it all now.

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That toolpro will be sweet as, very similar to the rupes copy I have borrowed and used. Used to be only a few shit china ones out there and they have cottoned on in the last few years and pumped out many iterations now so they are cheap and great for DIY.

IMO you have done the right thing getting a polisher, if you paint a car its pretty much a needed tool to finish the job and then maintenance in the future. Pretty hard to fuck it up with a DA.

If you dig into this guys youtube you can go way too deep and learn all the shit about detailing. He will have videos on 105/205 with a rupes.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYsa8SOy3TkoxI5D17s1u-w

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Also buy some good quality microfibers and handle them correctly, ie don't drop them on the ground and get any sort of grit in them

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On 01/05/2020 at 14:14, Spencer said:

That toolpro will be sweet as, very similar to the rupes copy I have borrowed and used. Used to be only a few shit china ones out there and they have cottoned on in the last few years and pumped out many iterations now so they are cheap and great for DIY.

IMO you have done the right thing getting a polisher, if you paint a car its pretty much a needed tool to finish the job and then maintenance in the future. Pretty hard to fuck it up with a DA.

If you dig into this guys youtube you can go way too deep and learn all the shit about detailing. He will have videos on 105/205 with a rupes.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYsa8SOy3TkoxI5D17s1u-w

Hes got some great videos and seems to know his shit!.

I'm picking the da type polisher is much safer around the edges etc rather than a normal buff?

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On 01/05/2020 at 12:18, BlownCorona said:

Bought pretty much everything suggested above, went for the toolpro polisher because it had good reviews and a good throw on it couldnt find anything better for the budget. 

and a bottle of megs 105 and 205 + appropriate pads for each compound. looking forward to doing both the crown and the corona now. 

 

cheers for the advice once again. think ive done all the buying now and need to do the hard work of actually using it all now.

Hey were did ya get the pads and compound from?

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Ordered online from the smits group/spray store website. 

Prices were what I was happy to pay and from the first place I found shipping. No idea if it's the cheapest or best place to get it. 

 

I've been flatting back the clear this weekend, gave that bog trick a go and it does work pretty well, but was super slow going. I later went back and re watched the video, he started sanding with wet 320 and said you could even use 240 and best I had was 400 so that's probably why, I was getting worried that the extra effort required to cut down through the filler would end up with me rubbing through the clear on the perimeter of the filler. Didn't happen thankfully. 

But since I noticed all the runs while I was still painting and stacked on a few extra layers, it's actually been really easy to cut them out with a careful hand and just the wet sand paper. 

I havnt been able to track down any razors, but I'm not sure I'll need them. Results so far are super good and it's looking like the whole job may come out bloody nice once finished. About 35% done with flattening the car, then have to move through the gritts which will be pretty quick. Then polishing fun, which, fingers crossed will be super rewarding after all the work. 

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Yeah that's still a polyester filler, I'm after an epoxy filler.. 

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Or can I just use the west systems epoxy with the fairing coat filler? 

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Do you mean a high build primer?

Not really sure what you mean buy an epoxy filler?

Just now, yetchh said:

Yeah that's still a polyester filler, I'm after an epoxy filler.. 

 

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Standard bog is polyester resin with talc fillers. I'm after an epoxy based filler, apparently has better adhesion to epoxy primer especially where the body flexes around the c pillar between the roof and quarter panel. Standard bog will potentially crack at that point so I'm not keen to use it. That's generally why that point is leaded as it is on the other side of the car. 

That's kind of why I'm asking, is any epoxy resin (I'd be using West systems) with fairing fillers ok or is there a specific epoxy filler that is better? 

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I have seen a restoration guy melt out the lead and use a 3M epoxy product, ling post as I cannot remember exactly what it was but it was spendy. Use some nutech, jokes aside that shit works in those spots also.

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51 minutes ago, yetchh said:

Standard bog is polyester resin with talc fillers. I'm after an epoxy based filler, apparently has better adhesion to epoxy primer especially where the body flexes around the c pillar between the roof and quarter panel. Standard bog will potentially crack at that point so I'm not keen to use it. That's generally why that point is leaded as it is on the other side of the car. 

That's kind of why I'm asking, is any epoxy resin (I'd be using West systems) with fairing fillers ok or is there a specific epoxy filler that is better? 

Proved the surface is keyed up well. Good red scotch brite does this fine. Polyester filler sticks to primer/epoxy with no issues.  I dont know whi would tell you otherwise.

As Spencer said newtech is a go to for replacing lead. Its strong and will not crack, and can be built up to fill factory joins with often one application 

The reason there is lead in the roof to 1/4 panel seam is because in the 70s polyester filler did no exist. And lead was the industry standard at the time. If your body is fleeting enough to crack filler. The paint will crack regardless. 

 

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