d.p.n.s Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 cant imagine you haveing any probs with a cert mate it all looks well done and in top shape to me.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 fuckin loving it man, looks choice as, lubs this car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Cheers guys. It wont get a cert this time round. I havnt done a few things like driveshaft loop not mounted rear of the front seats yet. Also have welded tierod ends which will fail if they see. Hopefully the fail stuff is a weekends worth of work tho rather than a weeks. Pulling that high flow pump out tonight and putting a standard one in to drop OP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 car looks so sweet what was the deal with the gearbox through the tunnel? was it way too small? howcome you welded the tierods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 wasnt it column shift + benchy origionally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 chur boe, looks sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 It was column shift when I got it and I made it 5 speed. But the last tunnel I had welded up was just way to tight.. this one is alot better and heaps of room round it. Welded an extra nut onto end of tierod to give extra length. The rods coming out of the steering rack were only just threading into the org tierod and it was unsafe.. So basically just lengthened the tierod which is not a good idea as they are cast. The proper answer would be to find either a longer tierod... or rack rods that are slightly longer.. will look into mk3 tina if I fail cert in this area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 If I was to cut and weld anything - I would weld a longer section into the threaded rack end as opposed to a cast tie rod end.. But thats just me.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 The proper answer would be to find either a longer tierod end... or tierods that are slightly longer.. will look into mk3 tina if I fail cert in this area. looking mean boe! I'v got to come see this in the metal sometime! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 If I was to cut and weld anything - I would weld a longer section into the threaded rack end as opposed to a cast tie rod end.. But thats just me.. Yuh but tierod end was easier to get off/out. I got it done professionally rather than just atack it myself. Either way is not certable tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 The proper answer would be to find either a longer tierod end... or tierods that are slightly longer.. will look into mk3 tina if I fail cert in this area. looking mean boe! I'v got to come see this in the metal sometime! lol Hard out, if ya in Welly or Rotorua give me a text. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 how did you get on with your cert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 Going to pick it up in a minute. From what I know it will have failed on half a dozen things. The cert guy I took it to is a prtty harsh cert guy too so prob more. They all pretty small things the largest two being driveshaft loop and seat mounts.. So yeah not overly hard jobs but definatly time consuming. Report back in half an hour or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 Car looks so Mint Makes me kinder want one i love the shape of them aye. Started to grow on me hard out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 Its a cool shape. kinda similar to the 510's and the Hunters. Anyways cert list page 1.. lol. Nah not too bad, isnt too bad but a bit more than a weekends fix. 1. Front wheel bearing covers 2. Fit door handles and window winders 3. Speedo is a no go 4. Attatch the seatbelt mounts to the original mounting position (someone had changed it god knows why) 5. Seat mounts.. He wants 50x5mm strap to mount the seats.. WHOA overkill as IMO. 6. Fix indicator 7. Put return spring on brake pedal 8. Fit hi beam warning light. (has just fallen out of its holder) 9. Wipers (he just didnt find the switch) 10. Rear view Mirror, (easy fix from repco) 11. Adjust left front Wheel bearing 12. A few of the clips for fuel and brake lines had fallen out 13. Driveshaft loop. 14. The 4 pot calipers have dodgy alloy brackets, he wants steel ones. (fair call) 15. Two throtle return springs (I had two but pedal weas too heavy) lol 16. Aparently cut springs cant pass unless reformed. lols 17. Wheel alignment 18. Fit steering column shrouds 19. Put a rubber cover on the brake pedal Yup so mostly easy as shit.. Bonus he did'nt mind the tie rods and all the crossmember cutting/welding and moding everywhere. Semi what I was expecting but so much small shit to do... no worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 Also that smiths tacho seems to have lost calibration or something.. its all up the whop and reads bout 4g when its doing 2-3. Also needle bounces around the place on idle.. kinda pissed off as I paid $150 to get it recalibrated a year ago and havnt used it since! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 Also that smiths tacho seems to have lost calibration or something.. its all up the whop and reads bout 4g when its doing 2-3. Also needle bounces around the place on idle.. kinda pissed off as I paid $150 to get it recalibrated a year ago and havnt used it since! Mine does the same thing - and its a very similar one - kinda weird - I think maybe cos they are an inductive type tach rather than a plain feed like normal that they need something special done.. if you find a cure - fill me in please and v.v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 Yeah was wondering if it was something to do with that. I used to have a Trisco one that did the same thing tho.. At it was just a normal type Tach.. Mine was working mint as up untill today. No time to look at it at the mo so it will have to wait.. Will fill ya in if I find fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blair Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 Also needle bounces around the place on idle.. Its getting feed back through the (+) side of the wiring. When I fitted up my electric fuel pump it made my tacho bounce, all I did was change the (+) on the fuel pump and no more bounce. Try it and see if it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bistro Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 TEE YOU DOUBLE EFF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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