Unclejake Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 You probably know all this already but if you do get the carbs "safe" and want to know more then do a plug cut at some point. Take a spare plug - go hard, hard, hard somewhere (not the desert road - too high) in third gear and at full throttle/highish revs/full load then kill the ignition and coast to the side of the road. Remove a spark plug and read it for mixture and detonation. If you don't know how then place spark plug in plastic bag and put the spare one in the engine. Bring specimin to me and I will bullshit you whilst we drink beer. EDIT: The above assumes you have only one sidedraft - if two then take a plug from each carb to be certain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 mean if you're running lean as at high rpm and laod then wouldn't that be a bad thing to do UJ boes? meh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Lol might run the engine in before doing that.. Plus yeah what cam said must be true too. We take it for a fang once run in and check plugs. White plug = lean Black plug = rich isnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Lean at high RPM will encourage detonation which we will be able to see on the plug electrode thingee. Doing it for a few seconds isn't going to hurt much - we will look for little balls of alloy on the plug (ablated off the piston crown). Unleaded fuel doesn't read quite like leaded does. A good burn will leave a thin black soot on the plugs. TBH I am not so flash when it comes to reading plugs on ULP but I can spot the detonation pretty smartly with my magnifying glass (which goes to every race meeting with me). Pretty much all N/A engines go best set up so lean that they are almost about to explode. The trick is finding the balance. With a change of main jets in the Cortina I can change the water temp by 10 degrees C so that gives you a clue as to what is going on in the combustion chamber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 tune on avgas ftmfw. I've found that new shit fuel seems to give gay results on plug tests also if you've got a lambda meter or some shit, could help pwn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 Oh I see, well you seem to know alot lot more than me so we can have a fiddle when its going... Would like to run on 96 as its a daily but 98 is posiable I guess. Have lead inserts in the fucker too. Wish I had a lambalambawhos ya dad gauge.. wanted one for ages.. new tyres fitted. Looks good. Not really stretched but none the less good. Didnt want to be rawking bouts everywhere with 175's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
- i5oogt - Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 your mk2 is looking great mate.. keep it up and keep those pics coming.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggo Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Hey gaz. What specs is the motor? Are you going to run standard carb etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 looking good man, makes me do work on my car bits haha but yeah, looks really tidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Hey gaz. What specs is the motor? Are you going to run standard carb etc? Engine has been fully balanced at Otrohonga Race engine builders. We chucked in new pistons, rings, bearings, ground crank with an extra dowel installed for strength to flywheel, new high capacity and flow oil pump cause had one lying round (dont really need it, might be handy if going turbo later), new water pump, Kelford FR32 cam. ... to cut it short... Basically a brand new lightened and balanced engine with light flywheel, cleaned up head ports, lumpy cam and a single 45 weber. Going to be a daily driver so did'nt want to go over the top. May go EFI turbo later if have the time etc. Gbox has been pulled down and new seals and bearings throughout. Syncros were ALL good. 3.54 diff in shed that will also be rebuilt. Aim is to have a fully rebuilt car driveline and suspension wise. Should go ok, maybe 130hp with the potential of a bit more if I ever choose to port the head. Infact bottom end would be perfect for a heavily modified head and twin 45's wont happen tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 ":19vh9g3y]your mk2 is looking great mate.. keep it up and keep those pics coming.. looking good man, makes me do work on my car bits hahabut yeah, looks really tidy Cheers guys. Hoping to have this one ready for summer cruises and OS meets. Few dents need fixing and a repaint would'nt go a miss but the 4m rule applies for now so im happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggo Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Mind if i ask how much it set you back apart from cam and carbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Hrmm not too sure aye. Engine bore, crank grind, flywheel lightened, balance, lighten, strengthen and bearings supplied was $1250 Pistons+rings were $105 hookup stz Water pump was $60 hook ups Oil pump was $250 Hex drive was $14 lol Full gaskit set was around $70 (can't member just a guess) Cam belt + tensioner was $30 hookups stz Head tidy up, 4 new valves, valve stem seals + lead free inserts was $300 Alternator rebuild & test was $60 Gbox full seal kit and bearings was $300 from Palmside Labour = free but did buy a few tools that were needed for gbox and head. (like lots of circlip pliers and torx bits for head bolts) So without cam and carb cost $2140ish. With other shit that I prob forgot lets say $2500 Carb = $150 Carb rekit = $55 trade Manifold = $150 Cam + followers = $230 So lets call 3g all up for a brand new slightly tickled 2l.. excluding labour costs for rebuild. You can rebuild an engine for under 1g however. Gotta remember my balance etc was expensive as was the oil pump. If ya can get away with rings + pistons + bearings ya can easy do it under 1g. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggo Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Did you build it yourself? I'm just going to run standard carb, mild ports maybe rebuilt bottom-end, hardend valve seats etc. Does that sound like a good plan for a budget build? or is there a better option? EDIT: sorry for spam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo3 Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 I fall in love more and more with this car everytime you post up at large. Did you use special heat paint for the cover? I was thinking of doing something similar for my 8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Looking good man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 I fall in love more and more with this car everytime you post up at large. Did you use special heat paint for the cover? I was thinking of doing something similar for my 8. Haha special paint. Buh just used normal paint. Used special paint on the block etc but they didnt have the colour I wanted for head so just went normal... will tell you in a month or so when I get it hot if its any good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Did you build it yourself? I'm just going to run standard carb, mild ports maybe rebuilt bottom-end, hardend valve seats etc. Does that sound like a good plan for a budget build? or is there a better option?EDIT: sorry for spam. I did half this one a few months ago when I was in Rotorua but the old man finished it as I had no time. Gbox was a bit trickier and I just left it to the old man to build while I sorted other shit on car. I rebuilt the head last Sunday morning in about an hour. There is only 8 valves to put in and a few other little bits an peices. Most of the time is used to clean parts to be honest. Once everything is clean and in front of you assembling it is the easy part. Give it a crack, its not as hard as it sounds, pintos are easy. Perhaps read a book as heaps of little hints and tips are used. Guess it helps with the old man around as if I get stuck he can always help. For a real cheap build buy a short block with minimal/no piston slap.. try to move pistons from side to side in the bore and see how much they move.... for example a fresh rebuild will not be movable side to side. If ya find one with fuck all play then there is a good chance it'll be sweet. Also check the lip of the bore for wear or a ridge, A small ridge can be honed off with a tool.. Harsher lips and marks need to be bored out which will cost around $200 say. If ya boring you usually need new pistons oversized... Basically what im trying to say is just get a shortblock that feels in good condition and work with it. Or try ya luck and get a whole engine.. they are cheap enough....still cant beat the tight feel of a new engine tho With your mo9ds you should also run a FR32 grind cam. Its the best way to get an extra 20-30hp and is the perfect fast road cam. It has a powerband of about 2500-5500/6000RPM. You dont notice fuck all lag in power below 2500 but you def notice more freeplay up top end. It is the perfect cam for the lighly modified pinto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Awesome man good shit getting it going. Thats not bad too, ripping the gb, clutch, fly etc off, replacing a seal and sticking it all back together and firing it up in one night. I probably would have seen the leak and gone and got on the piss instead or something. So you just going to run it in for afew hundred before you wind it up above 4krpm? Will be interesting to see how she goes up high. Should be quite impressive since you already think its quicker than the esky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Thats not bad too, ripping the gb, clutch, fly etc off, replacing a seal and sticking it all back together and firing it up in one night. I probably would have seen the leak and gone and got on the piss instead or something. Almost did go inside. So close tho and been fucking around with it for weeks now so thought better bite the bullet and do it. Was mean when it did fire up. So you just going to run it in for afew hundred before you wind it up above 4krpm? Will be interesting to see how she goes up high. Should be quite impressive since you already think its quicker than the esky. Yeah its got running in oil in it thats good for 1500ks. Will start opening it up around 1000k's. Got no speedo hooked up so unsure how im going to know this 1000k's tho lol. I need a right angle bend for the speedo cable to go in nicely.. Or a longer cable. Prob the later. Yeah man the engine is so smooth for an old peice of shit. Im hoping for 130hp which is 25 over stock when I chuck the sidie on and extractors. Anything more would require port work. I dont think up high will be that high. Maybe 6000 instead of the 5000 they good for standard My oil pressure gauge is off the hems tho, over 100 which is off the gauge! Good ol high flow high pressure pump which was completly overkill to install! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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