JoKer Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 none in front passenger compartment IF i recall correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 huh? wouldnt that just mean none? all the glass is the in passenger compartment - so that statement cant be right as I'm fairly certain sure you can do the rear screen and rear side windows. Do you mean the front passenger door glass and windscreen have to be normal car glass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 Pretty sure you can run it with the correct motorsport authority card - but it must be proper lexan - not polycarbonate. FYI - 3mm Lexan is $1000 for a 1200 x 2400 sheet last time I checked... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 pretty sure lexan is just a brand of polycarbonate, you mgiht be thinking of that vs. acryllic/plexiglass 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Rod ends and tube with threaded ends for rear suspension links? rod ends need to be to some specification? tube needs to be certain material/thickness? what about stuff bought from overseas? also is this kind of upper suspension pickup point relocation allowable for cert? It bolts on, and moves the pickup points to change the instant roll centre (and lets you use double rod ended suspension links). there is a weld on the tube piece that goes across left/right but that is only for anti rotation really and has quite a large amount of weld/material so I dont see it as being particularly highly stressed - would it still need to be crack tested if I made something like this myself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Hey Cletus,im midway through the VR4 conversion i asked about a couple of pages back. Ive discovered a potential issue though regarding the loops,in particular the 3rd one.im sure you have seen the underside of a VR4 legnum before,so you will know about how the 3rd part of the drive shaft is entirely under the fuel tank,and so no floor within the specs to bolt the loop to :/ .what would be the go with this in regards to cert?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 With the wheel size amendment on certs, can I have two sizes listed so that I can have either 15x7 or 17x7 rims on the car? Car currently has 17" alloys listed on the plate but I'd also like to be able to run 15's from time to time (track wheels are 15's and CBF changing them on the day at the track). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 With the wheel size amendment on certs, can I have two sizes listed so that I can have either 15x7 or 17x7 rims on the car? Car currently has 17" alloys listed on the plate but I'd also like to be able to run 15's from time to time (track wheels are 15's and CBF changing them on the day at the track). you can get the car certed for 2 different size wheels, id have to find out if the lower price 'amendment' thing applies if you want 2 sets of rims on the plate or if it would be full price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Hey Cletus,im midway through the VR4 conversion i asked about a couple of pages back. Ive discovered a potential issue though regarding the loops,in particular the 3rd one.im sure you have seen the underside of a VR4 legnum before,so you will know about how the 3rd part of the drive shaft is entirely under the fuel tank,and so no floor within the specs to bolt the loop to :/ .what would be the go with this in regards to cert?? you would have to make something work, there must be some bit of structure for the hanger bearing to bolt to, maybe you could mount the loop off that? the loop does not have to be straight across Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Rod ends and tube with threaded ends for rear suspension links? rod ends need to be to some specification? tube needs to be certain material/thickness? what about stuff bought from overseas? also is this kind of upper suspension pickup point relocation allowable for cert? It bolts on, and moves the pickup points to change the instant roll centre (and lets you use double rod ended suspension links). there is a weld on the tube piece that goes across left/right but that is only for anti rotation really and has quite a large amount of weld/material so I dont see it as being particularly highly stressed - would it still need to be crack tested if I made something like this myself? if it was strong enough to not flex etc then i suppose it could be used. i would be careful though, there are a lot of bolt on things for various cars that claim to "make x better/improve traction/ reduce bumpsteer etc etc" that make things actually worse. to me that looks like it would make pinion angle change worse with suspension movement as the upper links are shorter than original. i dont know very much about mustang rear suspension tuning though, you have undoubtedly done more research on the subject than i ever want to haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Pretty sure you can run it with the correct motorsport authority card - but it must be proper lexan - not polycarbonate. this, needs authority card for plastic windows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 OOOH OOH MR CLINT! I have a question.... What counts as a vehicle having been "extensively modified for motorsport use"? I wish to change my front seats out for some that dont weigh 2 tonnes and realised i probably cant do this because they contain airbags and the vehicle isnt 14 years old. So far on my cert list theres gonna be: Adjustable rear arms Brake calipers Engine upgrade Transmission swap roll center adjusters / bump steer correction things Fuck now that i think about it, i might need driveshaft loops too. 120kw to 165kw is the measured increase... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 you would have to make something work, there must be some bit of structure for the hanger bearing to bolt to, maybe you could mount the loop off that? the loop does not have to be straight across there literally isnt,i shall try get a picture to show you what i mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Want to register my landrover for beach use etc. do I need a vin to register it for this/B class? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Does anyone know how long the TAC usually takes to get back to ya re Design Approval? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 They meet once a month so depends where you send it relative to their meeting (plus I assume they will roll some over to the next month if there are too many in a month) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Was supposedly accepted last meeting (Tuesday last week?) just waiting on confirmation so I can continue with the process. Apparently I only have 2 months before I have to pay for another process and this is eating into that time somewhat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Was supposedly accepted last meeting (Tuesday last week?) just waiting on confirmation so I can continue with the process. Apparently I only have 2 months before I have to pay for another process and this is eating into that time somewhat. That can't be right - The guy who built the fully sick Cedric in Chch had his approval done for a full custom crossmember and rear suspension a few years ago and only got his cert 6 months ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Yeah, so normally you apply for Design Approval at the start of a project as a separate thing from the final cert process. (The two months starts from the start of the final cert process?) They've had me do an approval after I have applied for the cert, during the two month period. Make any sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 My understanding is Project Start Get Design Approval Fabrication Stage Project Complete Apply for Cert What stage are you up to? Clint knows this shit about a million % better than me so I should shutup as I am not sure here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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