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Everything posted by Rookie
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I know tomstament had trouble, pretty sure his solution was just to run ls leads, buy them from rock auto for like $0.03
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Dieselmeken is THE diesel dude in the world, just send you pump to him and it will come back with like 300 hp of dieselness inside.
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Wait, steeb has a 454 and decided to buy a RFB, what the fuck is going on? Also, +1 for other projects so this thread can die in peace...
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Sounds like you need DieselMeken.
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60 psi isn't a high fuel pressure Roman, so that won't have made any difference. I would say you just have shit in your tank, pull it and clean it properly if reliability is on your priority list, I have seen shit in a fuel tank cause all sorts of problems.
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LOL, Do a LS swap...
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They didn't do that last time i did one, they just give you a piece of paper that you have to say that you own it and its legit and then you have to get it sighted by a JP et al, easy peazey.
- 61 replies
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- 3
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- yamaha f5
- suzuki b120
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(and 2 more)
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Bike revinning is easy as, just take it to any vtnz, costs like $100 and they give it a wof and make you pay rego when it passes.
- 61 replies
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- yamaha f5
- suzuki b120
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(and 2 more)
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Have you had the head flow tested with a velocity probe? What about if the air is going supersonic and becoming turblent?
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Good to see this thing up on here Pete, great work so far!
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I came in here to say that I had good dealings with cbc and that I would recommend them. Good to hear this is still the case!
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As much as you like your carbs, if you supercharge it you should definitely go efi your life will just be better haha
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You do a good job of making yourself look like a knobjockey Fred...
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FYI Retep's escort has fixed back bucket seats on a fancy mount that tilts the whole seat forward, so it is definitely doable.
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Just convert it to efi, cheap and gets rid of most of the worn out/ British junk. It'll cost you about $800 to do everything (probably cheaper if you adapt a efi throttle body and don't do itbs), it will also be the single greatest modification you can do to your old car.
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Ok sweet, that is what you were talking about. My point being that, as per your second link, 14.7 afr produces the most heat no matter what the load, so yes while it probably isn't as much specific heat as wot, it is still heating things up unneccessarily. So basically, more heat and more fuel consumption for no gain, I know this doesn't apply to every engine combo, but for most it will hold true.
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I'm not sure I catch you Bangbug, come again?
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My crossflow with a bcf2 liked 12.6 at wot and 15.5 at cruise, 36 degrees of timing at wot too. Where did you get your numbers from Roman, 14.7 is too rich and 13 is too lean imo. Not to mention that stoic is the hottest burn, so you are heating things up unnecessarily for no reason.
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You have thought about this way too much Dave, nitrous is a very well known quantity and all of the products involved work well by all acounts. we have a couple of cars at work that spray 500-700 hp into carb fed motors with no problems.
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You are on the money Dave, there really is great things to be done with nitrous. I'm looking forward to seeing you battle evenly with a car for a few laps and then blast past down the straight. Good jerb.
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Have you looked on eBay for parts? I haven't struggled to find bits for my suzuki T350 which is similar vintage, and tbh I would rather trust I motor that I have built over something else, better the devil you know etc.
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Yea, this is exactly what a rca is for.
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Hydraulic handbrake and dual line proportioning valves
Rookie replied to jakesae101's topic in Tech Talk
I would just bin the factory proportioning valve, and get an adjustable one, then run a single rear line through the hydraulic hand brake and then t it afterwards. I don't see any need to keep it factory. -
FYI Flauski, I have nothing but good things to say about China carbs, so there is at least one person out there who thinks they are OK. Fingers crossed for you Russ, hope this thing runs as good as it looks.
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I have set up 3 of these motors using China pz19 carbs, the intake port is tiny so anything larger than that is a waste. My first intake manifold was just a bit of 8mm alloy with 4 holes in it and the port transitioning from 19mm round to the 10x10 square intake port, worked real good and I got 100 kph out of it on my velobike. For driveline I would just use a centrifugal clutch and be done, these motors spin to nearly 10k rpm with a China carb so you would probably get a reasonable speed out of it. Anyway keen to see how you get on.