mjrstar

Can you flip the oil cooler so the fittings come out the drivers side? I think when I plumbed up fd rally car a few years to twin oil coolers, there was a long line that was on AN fittings that ran to a thermostat valve built into the oil cooler and another line that ran an angled banjo, would that be an option?

This toyota rush thing is manual and north /south configuration.. maybe it's a daihatsu terios in drag? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/toyota/rush/listing/4965599424 I wonder if manual trans could be used in something else small bore toyota which was a bit less gutless in maybe a kp starlet or similar?

In my experience 2.5hp 50 litre belt drive is about the minimum you'd want.

i'm sure you are all over this but you might need to be a little bit careful with radial overhang of pad material past the outside of the disc with the evo brembos on that sized rotor. Great work getting them to fit inside the wheel though!

EDIT : nevermind i'm in the wrong discussion thread (i think)

I've got the hpc hyper extreme on my Mazda, it definitely makes a difference. The coating is black on the outside and silver on the inside, so I'd expect it to provide some corrosion resistance internally. The coating is maybe 10+ years old, but as is the way with my projects sometimes once I get them running and driving I move onto the next one. So the coating hasn't had a workout or hundreds of heat cycles.

There is a skateboard bearing which is a direct fitment for the shifter ends where they connect to the gearbox. This takes some of the spongy feel out of the gear shift. I did mine in situ with a g-clamp but you could do yours easily prior to installation.

Brown packing tape releases nicely, or you can just resin over stretched cloth if you have an organic shape. The red was just whatever shiny spray can pain I had over a bit of dash, some tape and cardboard a d the secret jib stopping compound (cheap and very quick to sand) / dam you Spoiler.

I have successfully used cardboard and tape as a mould to make a fiberglass component.. I'd probably make the airbox in 2 halves maybe making the bottom half that you have already in cardboard out of a thin sheet of wood (or the aluminum you already have) and have it clip or screw together.

I'd be swapping the turbo and cleaning the intake as best you can before doing anything else.

A bit more than your 1400cc but I reckon a g16e would fit pretty nicely.

That big exhaust cam probably needs more turbine housing to make the most of it. Otherwise with to much turbo manifold pressure the smaller turbo can lose a bit of response due to incomplete scavenging.. In saying all that the peak torque at around 4000 is pretty decent!

I had the cat back mugen exhaust with twin loop on my honda, it was spectacularly quiet.. I think I still have some bits and pieces of it lying around.. the muffler itself is ugly and bulky. I think the loop is designed to kind of cancel out the sound waves on the second pass through. The system was thin walled 2 1/4 dia (maybe .8mm) and pretty lightweight, and unfortunately worn out from too many ditch cuts.. Has a 3 inch system now, can still hear the induction noise so that's the main thing.

Since it's a honda, maybe it needs a twin loop muffler.

Not sure if I have mentioned this before, but a mate of mine had a supercharged pinto, with a suck through injection setup mounted vertically, it was a blast on song, but coming off idle it'd run super rich and backfire.. I did some road tuning prior to taking it to the dyno and got it driving okish. It ended up no better after an extensive dyno session. The theory was it was pooling fuel in the lower lobe area. He gave up on it and built an n/a motor for it. Maybe if you gear the blower to have decent velocity at idle you can prevent this from happening?

This sounds like hydraulic pump territory, could you build an air over hydraulic accumilator? You can get those small electric hydraulic power packs for for tip trucks. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/presses/listing/4882715028?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw28W2BhC7ARIsAPerrcIMiHNr_QSqPY1er47r1FndRmEZdvxdIDYAL9apDYEBo7Vi_T82ZTwaArwPEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Having spent way too much money modifying a bmc A series, I would recommend converting to something Japanese and 5 speed if you are not looking to keep it road legal or "original". It would be faster, more, reliable, have a better gearbox etc.. My personal choice would be something Honda, but there are plenty of options. Youd want to pick something that was reasonably easy to find a aftermarket final drive for to suit your tyre diameter..

I'll fax through the invoice for 1x chocolate fish.

Could you tap it for 10mm and run a stepped stud. Such as something a little like this. https://dubbed.co.nz/products/stud-stepped-stud-8mm-10mm-x-38mm The aluminum and stainless will kick off some galvanic corrosion.

The other thing with a concentric slave is they can be a little tricky to 100% bleed, but if you have a known engagement point at mid stroke it seems unlikely that it actually needs more hydraulic travel, well unless the master cylinder or pedal ratio is miles undersized. Also spent quite some time finessing the excedy hyper single in my honda. The adjustment was a little unconventional including a fork pivot mod, master cylinder spacer, and up and down stops. Due to too much hydraulic travel.

How much clearance on the pilot bearing(bush)? How close is the friction plate thickness to that which would be matched to the pressure plate? Is the concentric slave designed to be a constant contact, and if so is the spring weight appropriate? Come to think about it, I had a similar problem with the metro turbo clutch in my mini, I managed to start it in gear and then a couple of clutch dumps and it came good. Almost like the synchros were dry and the slightest bit of drag meant you couldn't select a gear.

I'd say if you haven't done rings then it's ready for full send I reckon. On a side note a mate of mine has a b16a racecar he wanted higher compression so put some second hand pistons in it, inspected the rings and bores and decided the 250,000 km original rings were still good to go. So no need to bed rings, and can get straight into swinging the engine to 9200 rpm again.

Slightly off topic, but i have found in my not particularly powerful fwd racecar that part throttle is something it doesn't see very much of.. certainly not for being traction limited, but occasionally for lateral grip limitations or to ease the diff into life mid-corner. Bearing in mind I have done pretty much zero in pursuit of horsepower, but have done stuff to improve grip, and added some lightness.

Slightly off topic, but an mx5 rear knuckle will take a Ford Lazer wheelbearing, which allows direct fitment of an evo wheel flange with no machining.

The manual conversion will certainly liven it up. Although your torque number is pretty good-must be the boost level. My pretty close to stock evo with the evo 9 based td06-20g made 245 wheel kw at 20 psi. Still on factory cast manifold and down pipe, with the assistance of some kelford 264's. I think it went 257 wheel kw on the Dtech dyno but that number might be a bit "happy" I did put some slightly agressive lean spool targets into it to help with the bottom end which saw it make 200kw by 4000 rpm. It seems like a lot of people disable the factory lean spool, or raise the limit.. but for a street car tuned by someone that knows what they are doing I reckon there is gains to be made../dyor