mjrstar

If best and easy and Honda are requirements then f20c or f22c are the way to go. So long as you can open your wallet wide.

If you are looking for tan colored bucket seats the na mx5 came with may work, not too busy etc. Although not sure how easy to track down these days..

I got this kit a few years ago ( or at least one pretty similar), has been fine for home jobs, and the little gun was handy for the terrible job of painting roll cages. Pretty sure it was a bit cheaper than that when I got mine but goes hard for what it is etc.. https://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-802342-StartingLine-Gravity-Spray/dp/B000KSTFJO

If you can get your hands on a spare iacv, and plug this in to the loom but don't connect it up to the throttle body. This will mean no codes are being thrown, but also eliminates the iacv from the equation. If you are still dealing with a high idle then air is getting in somewhere. Could be worn throttle body, damaged point on idle adjustment screw, bad pcv piping etc If the rpm drops then something is bumping up the target rpm, such as load sense for Aircon or alternator, or timing is too far advanced for whatever reason, or it's not entering idle mode to energise the iacv. it only takes a tiny leak to bump up an engine a few hundred rpm when there is no engine load.

The inverted shock will still be an insert. The big fat shiny bit you see is just the shock body which slides in a linear bushing. The shaft of the shock attaches at the bottom just like a conventional shock does at the top.. They are actually pretty easy to dismantle once you know what you are doing. I had a set of aragostas which needed a few linear bushing replace over the years.

I had a similar era triton for a while, I pulled the inlet manifold off at about 60,000km and it was gunked up to about 1/2 runner diameter.. I'd say the egr delete sure wouldn't hurt, but probably not essential..

He won't be able to poke that down in an engine bay to give us fail photos of slag included stick welded engine mounts made from panel steel and missing all but one fastener.

Same colour combo as my mini was when I first got it, white exterior and red interior... Not enough cars come with red carpet these days.

The 200 in a slick generally translates to about 225 in a road tyre equivalent.. I priced and sized some Hoosier tarmac rally tyres a while ago, so yeah for sure you'd be best to get your hands on some to get a feel for how they might fit.

If it's boosted and you have good pads, in a lightish car that size caliper the braking ability will out perform pretty much any tyre you can fit on it.

For measuring clamping force you use the area of one side of the pistons (a pair on 4 pots). Imagine pads coming up against a fixed object it's like one set of Pistons is the fixed object. For fluid displacement remember that a sliding piston also has to take up the air gap on the "fixed" side pad so the piston travel will be more when measured than one side a set of opposed 4 pots. A 1 inch master cylinder is a good start, to compare with an Evo with brembos, they run a 17/16 cylinder and have 40 and 46mm pistons.. To maintain a high solid pedal I'd be looking at the 35mm pistons, but as always DYOR. Real question is why go for the 4 pots? Is it to make it look cool, as there isn't too much wrong with a well set-up 2 piston sliding caliper from a performance perspective. If you went for the 25mm you may have not enough force at the pad, so pedal would be high and hard and require more leg effort for same amount of braking performance. If you went for huge pistons you'd end up with long pedal travel before the bite point and potential for making the braking pressure more difficult to modulate.

Well if it's not a pull clutch it sounds like it's stuck on a dowel, or friction plate stuck on the spline.. or maybe pilot bearing has input shaft jammed in there.. Once you are happy there is no hidden bolts I'd gently use the clutch pedal to see if that spreads things apart.

Is it a pull clutch?

Those graphs are cool, interesting that the deviation is so clear when throttle percentage starts to play a part.. One of the guys I spoke to kind of backs this up, he reckons when he swapped to itb’s it became quite noticeable if he didn't get to 100% throttle he didn't get all of the horsepower.. when it was on a single throttle body it didn't seem to matter so much.

OD of the clutch face area is 220mm, centre bore of clutch disc is close to 25.6mm

Open wheel thing is all sorts of cool... I have been talking to people that run individual throttle bodies, and often they talk about how a few percent of throttle change can really help with torque control.. I find with my Honda (stock single throttle body on an 1800)that realistically between say 60% and wide open throttle there is a bit of a change in noise maybe but not a whole lot of torque or power change.. This led me to think of a few questions does having itb's actually give greater torque control, does part throttle at lower rpm perform better than wide open throttle, and if so with an e-throttle, could you set up a table to chase throttle percentage as rpm rises. To this point it'd be interesting to see what a Dyno run at 95% or 70% compares to a standard full throttle run.. presumably under a certain power output there shouldn't be much loss if any? Perhaps @Roman could draw us a graph..

Looks to be 24 spline. Pressure plate part no is nsc624

Are you sorted for flywheel etc? I believe this setup collecting rust in my shed is to suit sr20. The Original plan was to mod it to fit between Evo motor and 370z gearbox, but Nissan rb26 made way more sense once I found out it shared the same crank pcd as early 6 bolt 4g63

You can buy led trailer interface adapters which should eliminate the issue.

I was expecting the gearing to be a bit meh with the small capacity na engine, but it's getting along pretty nicely, definitely more pull in the next gear than I anticipated. Just need to work on your video data overlay skills. EDIT: I use race render, it seems happy to accept most .csv files and will take the data from the factory Honda ecu in my civic, it'd be fine with link ecu data no doubt too. https://racerender.com/Products/index.html

Looks and sounds fast!

Pinion angle, driveshaft length etc.. Has all been covered off yeah?

Yeah if panel steel only then 0.6 is great it gives you more adjustability in the low range due to greater current drop through the wire stick out. (tip to work) Although is 100% rubbish if you need to weld some thick stuff. Wire is pretty cheap, Maybe grab some 0.9 as well and a couple of tips 0.9 tips, generally the 0.6 should be fine in a bigger liner.. My local engineering supplies sells Xcel-Arc which I use, but suspect it's all much of a muchness.

One thing to factor in when gearing up for co2 mig is you'll need a thread adapter to use a normal argon regulator.. Such as: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/building-renovation/tools/other/listing/3770563324?gclid=CjwKCAjwpqCZBhAbEiwAa7pXeWLObiEjzt92tsZfPaU-opb8YAdYHnlBIL2ZMIdhqGxRwXmBBPNAoRoC-CkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yeah injector coil resistance could well be further up the shit once a dose of engine bay radiant heat and possibly vibration is applied.. Flow testing in a rig could be a far less challenging set of conditions?