Ranter

Clutch would be the same I assume, what car are we talking? I have no knowlegde of codes, be it chassis or engine. RWD no worries but could have different shifter lenghs or different ways the shifter fits in, FWD heaps of differences possible from mounting points to c.v shaft size, whether it has vacuum operated 5th gear etc etc. If its ex Lancer then I used to do it all the time with our rental cars, they needed 5 speed and turbo headlights (to replace stock candles) before entering service. It was a long time ago but can't remember any dramas.

Take it down to VINZ, VTNZ or the AA and get a vin number, then take to cert inspection. Then when you think its sweet take it back for it full inspection. You can never get the cert plate before the 28 days expires otherwise and you have to pay for a re-check.

Do what Uterus suggested they will also coat the inside. We get it done to a few old cars that have been sitting for very long periods of time. Never had any problems after that.

She took it in for a check engine warning light and they changed the plugs and oil and reccomend they cut the wire? This is worse than just poor, its pathetic. Ring up service manager and give him a serve, then threaten further action. Thats shocking from a backyarder let along a francise. Does it actully have a miss? With car running remove a coil at a time to see which one doesn't affect the running and replace that one, you will still need to have the codes erased most likely. (have seen Cefiros trigger light from coil problems so it happens)

^Good point, the radiator cap is obviously stuffed but there could be another cause also.

You could have replaced the head gasket by now.... Look for sludge build up under rocker cover, weeping frost plugs, signs of old oil leaks etc the obvious. It could blow a head gasket in a few thousand kms though, I always make people aware of this before I rebuilt a known well serviced engine.

If all else fails check with Seat Belt Sales in ChCh 03 9638886, I'm not sure what they are allowed to do anymore with regards to re-webbing but they have done it while I wait before.

Can run without alternator ok, the pump provides vaccum for brakes so if you drive it like that just be aware.

Na those plates will leak outside the enclosed area, don't worry about alternator either for now. If you have remove your belts again I think its the upper b/s that has a removeable shaft the seal sits on, turn that around so seal can seal cleanly, pressure relief valve and rocker cover gasket as mentioned are the other usual suspects.

Oh its still getting on belt? Don't worry about the front cover gaskets then, (they aren't difficult to do just messy) run it without covers and check, (with crank pulley on or bottom sprocket will slide off) look real close at where rocker cover seals around cam tower part. Also had them leak from the nut on the top of the oil pump you can see in one of your photos. You didn't buy it lately from down here did you? Just everything lines up with a customers one he sold lately.

Yeah thats the one, not much fun to replace. I once assembled one with locktite sealant the was expired by about a month. Everything leaked after about a year. And yeah if plenty of smoke is coming out of dipstick tube or breather to intake then you will be chasing oil leaks all the time, I have drilled a larger hole in the rocker cover and vented them to the ground before but thats last resort when owner has no money. They take rings well even with messy bores, sump and head off and it takes bugger all.

Not sure where I'd buy the oil line from, think I threw one out lately after having it sit around for years. You can replace sump gasket in car, from memory just undo diff mount bolts for extra clearance. I used to fit the crank pulley without the covers and run them to find leaks in the front of the engine, used to also use sealant on the outside of the crankseal to stop it spinning. Then if it looks ok hook up alternator belt and see if vaccuum pump is leaking. Also the front cover can leak from where it bolts to the block, makes it look like sump gasket but your leak looks higher than that.

I have zero experience with these but know about the correct low ash oil etc and not to add anything to the diesel on a modern Toyota. I think the problem may be that the 02 sensor(s) and various other sensors that run it will trigger the check engine lamp due to it not getting the correct infomation therefore trying to run maps that it doesn't have. Don't they burn off themselves under the right conditions? I'd like to try it but as yet have not much knowledge of these fancy computer controlled emission equipment.

Usually either oil pressure switch, banjo on back of alternator or turbo oil feed in that area, worse case is the motor is breathing heavily blowing oil into intake and dripping out the air inlet at the turbo. Your Pajero sounds like it has a 5.2 diff ratio, assume NZ new?

Lining up marks and fitting belt works if the shaft is already in the correct place it pays to check as lining up the marks doesn't mean that it is correct and someone might have got it wrong in the past. If it was incorrectly timed its easy to get it right without removing the bolt at the back of the block. Just turn the sprocket a 1/4 turn or less each way and it tries to go back to the mark itself, if it won't do a full turn and try again and again until it does it. Replace the seals behind the b/s spockets also.

Haven't seen this happen before, it is possible to get the head gasket back to front blocking off oil feed, I guess you could check this easy as it'll be dry up top. Also you can't use roller rocker cams in non roller engines if any changes have been made.

They want a hypoid 80/90 api GL5 by the book i use.

The Toyota 1/2c diesel conversions they did from new had the diff mounted to the engine, well the 2 or 3 I've worked on have. I wouldn't bother with that conversion be better with the original engine.

We have one of those 4 posters, watching it sway violently with a loaded up ute on it during aftershocks was scary but it survived.(takes a day or so to be confident under it again lol) Had to move it though it damaged the floor. We got a Launch 2 poster fitted the day of the big quake, Chinese made and heaps more expensive than links posted, I have to say looking around it doesn't "seem" any different to the cheap ones and I wonder how the prices are so different. I wouldn't call it high quailty although no major faults yet. Next one we buy will be as mentioned above, second hand Italian.

Addington during the day, Woolston after hours.

Is your autometer one liquid filled? They're the only ones I've seen read wrong. Have a couple you can borrow HKS and Mitsubishi but they don't read in psi.

Yeah defintely agree was suggesting it for ease only. Its done almost 900,000kms he is not that good at getting them done on time, got to get a million kms before any serious work, hasn't had clutch either.

Not sure with the Toyota stuff but with the Mitsubishis the main shaft is way to long to do this and it becomes uneconomic. Won't a Coaster gearbox be way to large/heavy in a car? Can't remember what they look like. I'd go the kz engine with an auto myself but that'll probably look strange in the engine bay. Those hz engines are unstoppable so I wouldn't think there was a large second hand market for them. (just did at least my 65th service on a customers one, still haven't removed rocker cover yet)

Oil feed comes from the back of the filter housing the the top of the turbo, water cooling comes from the thermostat housing to the port closest to the rocker cover and drains back to the water pipe that comes out of the back of the water pump. There is another oil feed on the back corner of the cylinder head which I think all other Mitsubishis use. You won't hurt it with no water cooling.

There is no need to remove them unless its run a bearing on the balance shaft, people do remove them when doing high performance builds but even then I still wouldn't. Over the years I've heard stupid claims of up to an 18hp gain, its just bullshit. You shouldn't really need to replace the tensioner either unless the bearing is noisey or rough running, but make sure there are no seals or rocker cover leaking as oil will fuck it in no time then it'll break and get caught up in the main timing belt. Also try Mitsubishi for belts, I got a B/S belt for $14 for a 4g69 this morning.