Jump to content

smokey

Members
  • Posts

    48
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About smokey

  • Birthday 02/14/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Converted

  • Local Area
    Christchurch

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

smokey's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/5)

10

Reputation

  1. Damn I wrote up a post for this thread months ago and it didnt work for some reason.. Anyway, I have canned the flares idea. I bought some and test fitted and felt they just didnt look right on the car. I am running starion struts up front now which tuck everything in about 20mm each side and works well with the previously rolled guards. My 14x7 longchamps with 195/60/14s fit pretty snug now so im pretty happy with the result. The struts have D2 coilovers and adjustable camber plates which help the tyres out with some camber. The struts still need to be welded up though.. I did also have to get some RCAs made up for everything to fit too. All in all it was quite a bit of work getting around having to use the flares lol. Hi Danny, My suggestion would be to run a Sigma/ L200 4G63 sohc with a carb setup. Either standard or maybe a webber 32/36? You can run a sigma gearbox with the L200 Tail housing. The diff should handle it fine too. This is what I'd do if I was going non turbo. I saw your car on trademe so if you still have it, you should go ahead with a conversion aye.
  2. The best option for a low cost repower is a sohc 4g63. If you keep it carb its pretty much bolt in. Theres lots of info online and i've done a sohc turbo conversion on my colt. With a non turbo 4g63 you should be fine with the factory brakes and 8 bolt diff, just make sure theyre in good condition. Lowering blocks in the rear and low springs in front will help it out. I think you can use ex lancer ones, but im not sure. Either way ex struts swap straight over, the brakes are different but are easier for parts. Id look at putting some bolt ons on the front too and some wider rims to go with. It'll balance out the look of the car a bit. Car looks really good though, very tidy. Another site for colts is Classic Colt, lots of support there too. Good luck with it mate.
  3. Its always good to see a Colt saved from the crusher! I have a few parts here and there I could help with. Not a heap but if you need something, just ask,
  4. Ok, time for an update.. Ended up pulling it all apart again a while ago. Made new brake lines and fixed an exhaust leak, redid the heat shielding and tidied up the wiring. I added a junction box where the heater was for relays and fuses etc. Im working on an alloy radiator, adapted from an rx3. Also, NEW RIMS! Wiring in the "Lunch Box" Still have to sort out some better fitting tyres and flares. Thinking of wider rims or a sigma diff so the flares dont look unnecessary in the rear.
  5. Theres a couple options if you go coil overs. I plan to use celica gt4 inserts. Heres a writeup I found for using mr2 inserts in coilovers: http://home.comcast.net/~driftability/gallery/StrutMod/StarionMR2Inserts.html
  6. Well I figure I should do a write up on some of the things i needed to do for the the conversion up to this point. Most things have been pretty straight forward with the gearbox since i was using the narrow block 4G63 and didnt need a hydraulic clutch. I did need to build a gearbox crossmember as the Colt has no provisions for a 5 speed. I initially used the 4 speed mount which I modified for the wider stud spacings for the 5 speed. In reinforcing the bolt holes the rubber got a little too warm and I had to re-glue the thing back together. The glue held out pretty well but I have since started building one using a 5 speed mount and 10mm plate steel. Ill add a photo of this when its completed. It is half finished at the moment but is supporting the gearbox fine, I just wanna add some extra strength to it. I needed the shorter tail housing to go with the gearbox and an aftermarket rear seal to go with the Colts prop shaft. The engine mounted in fine with the 1600 crossmember and the appropriate mounts. I think theyre just rwd 4G63 mounts from an l200 but im not sure as I got them with the gearbox. The clutch and flywheel are also from an l200 but Im not surea bout if its from the 4G54 or 4G63 (just cant remember lol). My starter is from a starion, but I figure a l200 one will work too. Im using the water pump and pipe from a rwd 4g63. The main problem was with the pulleys. I found the pulley from the fwd water pump didnt fit the flange of the rwd pump. I tried swapping the flanges over, but I couldnt get the pulley to line up with the rest. So what I did was ditch the multi rib belt for the older v belt from a rwd 4g63 and all the pulleys. I needed to use a spacer to align the alternator belt properly as I was using the fwd alternator and use a press to position the crank pulley. I cant remember exactly but I think I just lined them all up to the water pump pulley. You can avoid using the rwd crank pulley by pressing off and flipping the fwd pulley (the pulley is 2 parts pressed together) but mark and align your timing marks before you press off the outer part. The pulleys were a bit of a bitch, I think if I did the conversion again, id just modify the fwd water pump or make my own water pipe. Oh to have a TIG.. I needed to use the top mount exhaust manifold. The fwd low mount one interferes with the steering box, I didnt check this but the top mount looks too cool for me to care. The turbo centre and compressor housings need to be rotated and the oil feed and drain lines need to be made up. The drain is easy enough, just cut off the flanges that join the 2 pieces together, weld an extra bit to the top pipe and use some oil safe, high temp hose to connect the 2 pieces. The feed is easy 2 adaptors, 90 fittings and about 400 mm of braided hose. I wanted an4 but an6 is all I could get when I needed it. I havent sorted water supply to the turbo but it'll be much the same as the oil. I made the down pipe using a flange i bought off trademe and some 2.5 inch pipe. I used some pipe I found, which looked to be good. It took a lot of effort to make and id recommend just using mandrel bends. Im still using the 2 inch exhaust the car came with, but ill be getting a 2.5 to 3 inch system made up. The current system is way too restrictive. As well as this, in the colt i needed to use an ex lancer brake master cylinder. The colts brake lines interfered with the turbo exhaust housing as they came out the side of the cylinder. I am still using the original brake lines, just bent to suit the master cylinder and clear the down pipe. I am intending to upgrade to a larger master cylinder to support bigger brakes, so ill have new brake lines made up to suit when I do it. For the engine inlet I initially tried adapting the type one injection from the fwd inlet to the rwd inlet. This would require an adaptor plate. I began making one but ended up getting an already cut and shut MPI manifold from 1stgenlancer (big thanks btw). Just using the type 1 injection would have been the easiest option, but wouldnt be as good as the type 2 or MPI. The MPI also came with the water fitting turned and a nice shiny (vaccum cleaner?) pipe to transfer the water to the front of the manifold. The MPI also came with a later distributor which contained an optical CAS setup. I ditched the rotor, cap and leads. I cut down the rotor shaft and welded a plate over where it protruded through the cover. I used the lower section of the cap to secure the cover using the latches. The cap had to be cut down as it interfered with the idle up motor. Funnily enough the idle up motor was removed afterwards as I couldnt use it with the aftermarket ECU. The intercooler took a good amount of chopping to get in and the radiator had to be moved back with spacers. I had to make a pipe from the turbo to the intercooler using the pipe that attached to the original TD04 and a couple different sized pipes, stepping the pipe upto 2 inch, then a 2 inch to 2.5 inch 90 degree silicone bend. I used 2 90 degree silicone bends and a cut down 90 degree alloy pipe to go from the intercooler to the throttle body. i had an engineer TIG adaptors for the BOV and IAT sensor to the alloy pipe. The fuel rail had a couple leaks to begin with. The adaptor I got off trademe probalbly works with the DOHC rail, but needs me adjustments for the SOHC rail. I elongated the bolt holes and used a copper washer to help seal the rail. cut down washers are needed to stop the adaptor from bending with the copper washer in the middle. the MPI setup came with 390cc injectors (thanks again) which seem to be sweet as with the turbo. As for everything else, Im using a Megasquirt MS2 V3.57 ECU which I got off Scott at Embedded Design. We had some teething issues with the CAS and Ignitor but Scott was a really big help and we managed to get it all sorted out. We have found the tuning software and customisation of the ECU to be pretty good and we've only scratched the surface. Im running a fully braided fuel system with 2 044 copy pumps and a surge tank etc. I probably went for a more expensive option. modding the fuel tank and just using one pump and bundy line would have worked fine there. Well that's a bit of info about the swap. In hindsight I probably would have done heaps different, but I figure you have to learn somehow lol Hopefully this helps anyone doing a swap like this, Ill chuck some more pics up of the progress as it happens
  7. Well, time for an update! Theres been a lot of progress since the my last post. The engine is in, wired up and running with a Megasquirt MS2 V3. The car is drivable but theres still heaps to tidy up and really finish off before I even think about going for cert. Ill do a more detailed update with more info... But I cant be arsed typing so Ill let the pictures do the work Engine out New crossmember. (Half built) The progress: I thought I had more photos of the progress. Theres huge gaps between photos. Building the loom, lining up pulleys, making intercooler piping, revised gearbox crossmember, ECU gremlins, etc. Its been a really big job and theres still heaps more to do.Still have to do the diff, brakes, suspension and a heap of tidying. But all in good time!
  8. Yeah that's what I'm looking at doing now aye
  9. Hey fellas, Im installing a surge tank setup into the boot of my Colt. Its a coupe and the boot is separate from the passenger cabin. I will be putting a steel plate between the boot and the rear seat, but I dont know about the parcel tray. I have the usual chip board panel with holes for the speakers over it. Will this be ok or do I need another plate or further sealing there too? Any help appreciated. Cheers
  10. Ah ok, yeah that makes sense aye. I see how it works with an EX, but the colt has a cross member that the radiator pretty much sits on. It would work sweet if I move the radiator back (which I may do to fit the intercooler). Ill be putting my 4G63 in next weekend so ill get some measurements and see if the bigger radiator will fit. Would be bloody handy if it did lol
  11. Taller? I dont think it'll even fit the Colt in that case.
  12. Haha i asked the question about the radiator (mums trademe account...) I currently have one from a 1.2L EX Lancer and i seems stretched dealing with my current 1.6L. So figured yours might be good or my G63 since its from a G62 aye.
  13. Alright, been a while since I posted here... but heres where I'm up to. Balance shafts removed: Mocked everything up with the single point injection, TD05H, top mount manifold: Got the multi point setup: (Cheers 1stgenlancer) And with it came The optical dizzy: Will be running wasted spark now Then slapped on some paint, put on the flywheel, clutch, gearbox and starter: Still have Heaps to sort, but will be dropping the motor into the Colt in a few days.
  14. Well, i removed them. The belt was looking pretty average and the tensioner had some noise to it so I would have replaced them if I kept the shafts. One of the bearings looked as though it had some debris in it at some point too. So, I figure it was a good option just to be away with them and not have to worry about it. Yes, Ive heard of massive power increases from removing them, but its just one of those things I guess. Id be happy with anything bar a decrease in power or catastrophic failure.. Having the simplicity and a bit more oil pressure is a definite positive. $14 for a drive belt? Damn, I wouldnt trust that aye.. I just got mt cam belt and tensioner from Repco. They weren't expensive after trade and should do the job fine.
  15. I'm about to do the timing belt on my SOHC G63 and and was thinking about if I should replace the belt and tensioner running the top balance shaft. I have read into removing the balance shafts from my G63 and I was wondering if just removing the small belt and leaving the shaft in will do anything? Will it unbalance the engine?
×
×
  • Create New...