Ranter

Don't know. As far as I know the Starion/Sigma/L200/Pajero are the same. If there are numbers I can compare with mine, have everything but a Sigma here at moment. Seem to recall trying to replace that seal without removing the box but dramas unfolded of which I can't recall resulting in a swap.

As an aside clean or change the spark plugs, all that cranking and no fire equals fouled.

Compression test? Also total long shot but I was duped by faulty new plugs last week, which led me down a long road before I decided to recheck them. They should give you info as to what cylinder is at fault or if its all of them anyway.

i'd be swapping the air flow meter for a known good one, then the boost sensor first. Coolant temp sensor is the only other one that would matter I'd probably replace it rather than mucking around. If it comes down to computer I might have one to send you to try somewhere.

Yeah I just reassembled my one for a neighbour, pretty sure he'll be done with it tomorrow and I'm only going to break it down and stash it anyway. By Hagley park.

Use them for all oddball performance Japanese imports and some 4wd stuff also and have done for years, no dramas with their work.

Any 1.8 or 2.0l 4g head will work turbo or non turbo, pretty sure other than mca jet types or dash heads all are the same though.

Automatic choke? Next time remove air cleaner top and stick a screwdriver down top of carb to stop choke closing it off and start with throttle. Is it a Kiwi car or import?

Usually simple fix, before replacing anything I brake clean the hell out moving parts and use spray grease to lubricate again. Sometimes that's all it is, sometimes something is bent due to kids holding down button while actuator is operating and worse case is actuator motor is stuffed but it sounds like it trying to operate.

With complete disregard for the diagnoses effort above I'll offer that 3 things usually stop these cars, and your fuel pump is apparently working. Crank angle sensor or timing belt jump due to water pump failure are the main reasons I see them stop, while computer issues are not uncommon its not the first conclusion drawn.

Guessing your one is a 2wd diesel ratio and your want one from a early chain drive sport 3.89 or something. Although those were often changed when new because they couldn't drag themselves along with any load in them. The 4x4 4g63 powered one I got the other week is 4.89. None of these are LSD though.

Mitsubishi don't have shit for them. If you want the original plug I can look, I have a loom spare from earlier model after my fire mishap. Agree about the hose clamps, and radiator caps, the rest of the stuff I still use.

Ideally yes but TC requires no mods, is cheap, unnoticeable and works. Td fitment leads to further work that personally I can't justify unless moving to MPI.

Hybrid a tc05 to 06 front cover. Completely changes car for not much money.

Nice to see another here, mine is a red replica of that with the same wheels but I'm using 8in shp fronts. How is the annoying reflection from the dash? My other one has that digital dash but I'm no fan, doesn't go above 188 if I remember correctly so can't even finish 4th gear.

If a hoist check required I have some of them, haven't fucked around with a Gtr in 15 years though, the ratio of rubbish to good was about the same as now by the sounds of it.

You need indicator signal, hi beam warning lamp and airbag/abs warning lamps if fitted.

Its a bolt in job for non turbo engines from memory, fwd turbo engine will have starter/flywheel offset differences if I recall correctly. Obviously turbo engine will require exhaust and fuel system mods also, DOHC engine requires a lot more custom mods for water flow and fitment. Additional upgrades usually start with tco5/6 hybrid turbo or VR4 TD05 and intercooler then multi point injection manifold from L300 or Hyundais and stand alone computer.

One replicated wiring loom which cost a lot more than I had in mind or thought it could but it is done and is movement in the right direction. Next is to have manifold cleaned up and to reassemble that, I have all the genuine seals and injector kits already but I'm sure there will be stuff I haven't thought of that will slow things down.

I will if they'll bring it to my workshop for hoist check or is it a non runner?

I've a car if needed as a last resort, it's constantly on loan and I know it has a noisy c.v when last seen but it will do the trip fine. 1000kms would require some pretty fine liquor though.

Did you still want those Saab manuals?

Thought cert plate died with rego?

Insulator survived perfectly, Interior shot, considering the shenanigans the young put their cars through I'm amazed how it held up. I did clean it a lot. Some clothing brand apparently. These euro spec cars are quite different from the Japanese ones, 3.5 8in LSD, ABS 132kw. Advertised as fastest 2L on the road (lol)

I've had this since around 1998 but store it for a few years at a time. It had been 3 years when I went to get it from the ex's place a few weeks back. It didn't start first turn like normal but it started and run fine until a small bang and a lot of black smoke from I assume was a fuel leak catching, a bit of panic and a garden hose stretched further than what seems possible fire was contained and the outcome was better than expected with so far only minor damage to paint and some wiring to replace. So I've got it into work for the repairs, it has never needed anything but maintenance in my ownership so its a bit unusual to have to work on it. Removed manifold, I'm not doing a thing wiring wise I'll get an electrician to sort it and might claim insurance if costs get too high, might anyway because of the painting required. Hoping to have it running by Christmas which in my time scale is quickly.