drftnmaz

I have a tomei FPR and a walbro 255lph pump, plus a surge tank and lift pump. Im not too sure what max fuel pressure is supposed to be though, I heard 62psi somewhere. Its turning out to be one fucking expensive fuel system careful with that walbro, they normally stall at ~55psi, 62psi sound excessively high, most cars are about 38-42 base pressure bosch are good for about 115psi tho if you do want it high

i'd use a flapper disc and then finish off with a orbital sander to smooth it off, and yea i've bogged heaps of rims,although i'd usally use newtech

yea as long as the point you weld the sleeve is below the join on the strut (ie on the unmodified bit of the strut) then its sweet

yea play with fueling while watching ex temps and air/fuel ratio

just jack it up and measure them, no need to take them out, anything could be in there, its only top and bottom coil size to figure out which ones you need

i went to VTNZ for a wof in my 2dr corolla that is called a 'corolla van' on the rego, it still had the factory paint in the seat belt holes, they made me put seats and belts into it, that or i could weld over it, then fill in a form and they would change the rego to 2 seater after a quick check-over i wasn't very happy about this and made them look up my rego and sure enough in the computer it said 5 seater, after that i couldn't see the point in arguing with them

/\ That is Awesome!!!!!!!!!! always wanted to do a suck-through on a lada motor

thats mean... i always thought the flywheels had different bolt pattern, good to know you can just do the old switcharoo

arn't your overload's upside down?

and set you rev limit to 5000rpm

yea its just spring steel, it doesn't mind which way you make it go, its just always trying to find its way back to its set state

yea check the block for the water and oil feeds, in a n/a they are just not drilled and tapped but pedistall is still cast into block... my old det had about 160psi(8.5to1) when warm, and my de+t (9.5to1) has about 185psi when warm what colour injectors you got? they look like red/pink in that pic? which is n/a, purple if turbo... also what ignition system has it got? coil packs or dissy? pistons are dished in DET, and domed in DE

i love the way you do things... buying a extra motor for spare sensors! sounds like something i would do should make a mean cruiser

you just heat up then rapidy cool, i just use my gas cooker then chuck in bucket of water, goes really soft

if its been heated or compressed, ie engine started up then you should anneal it before re-use

yea hes got a o-ringd block.... i wouldn't want anyoverhang, as said above, chances of detanation are too high is it a brand new gasket? or s/h? if its s/h i would think you will need to anneal it before use,(at least thats what i used to do with my copper inlet/ex gaskets

not a blockage in the oil feed/return causing the lifters to stay pumped up? i'd change the lifters from cyc 1 into cyc 2, reassemble with old gasket and test them all, see if problem moves or both are now not working etc?

MEAN!!!!

measureing the width might narrow it down... but ke70,kp60, ae86 etc all have the similiar type of design to what you have mentioned and all 4x114.3 maybe even a axel spline count and dia

you can get the eyes inverted which should give you about 2" drop and still keep the shape.... snells springs in auckland do them aswell, but yea you gotta drop the springs in not the car

i put that redline mt90 oil in my sr20 g/box hoping it would help, but it didn't change a thing, but the box was probally too worn already, good way to waste $120

just use oil.... too much chance of anything else flaking off, i just oil my pipes if ther not going on straight away, and then paint the outside... once its running it will oil on its own

yea run none, but still weld a boss in so the tuner can fit if needed, just chuck a bolt in there

wideband is real time full exchast anaylising but narrowband is only used to measure small samples quite slowly and i think they can't measure how rich you are past a point so only really used to lean it out under high speed crusing, ie motorway driving i wouldn't run a link in closed loop mode with a wideband, heard nothing but bad things.... only use the wideband for tuning, which you won't be doing anyway, and LC1 is a waste of money for any real tuning, you need somethign that logs revs vs afr so you can then tune, or else you have to watch the gauge and tune as you go which is doable but not the greatest and yea 3/4 wire is normally heated because it won't measure anything under 600 degrees or something (i can't remember) so its just applying power to the unit to self heat, easy as to do so you could run a 1 wire narrowband $50 sensor to the link for leaning out on the motorway, but i rather just pay for the gas than risk it going faulty and then the computer going lean and engine going pop thats how i understand it.... may not be quite right

ke70 wagon shocks for really small springs, but sedan for medium low