piazzanoob

you got that right. daily occurrence for him im sure he would be somewhat interested to do his magic when you are ready to move things forward

This looks like a great resto job for @RXFORD to do

after fitting new head gaskets its a big no no to put antifreeze in straight away. normally the process is do some miles and heat cycles like 500 miles and retorque heads when hot then fit antifreeze. have the heads been machined? and block checked with straight edge? also copper spray is a good thing to put on the gaskets to help seal. but if you don't want to strip it again i would drain all coolant and just add water and do some miles and retorque heads then add sealant pellets then coolant

for trans fluid use type f like you said as type f is basically a trans fluid with no additives for like friction modifying etc. great fluid for old type transmissions. but any old texron 3 will also be fine for a c4 or trans of same era. and for the steering ram there not too hard to do yourself if you are mechanically minded. if you want pics i did the one in my galaxie build thread. also driveshaft looks abit dodgy i would also pull it out and send to russell @ driveshaft specialists

shit that thing makes good power for a 4age must mean it will be ready for OS drags in December?

if the piston weights are different between what was in there and new ones. like a decent amount the motor will need balancing if not done can cause issues like engine vibrations and unwanted wear on components. plus the engine will be used hard too its not much money in the scheme of what your spending in parts and what it will cost if you had to do it twice. if your not sure on weights or getting it done get your motor machinist to check and tell you

I think you and @cletus are on the right track. i have worked on a early 60s plymouth which same in the rear end to remove the rear drums requires a puller because the drums get stuck on the taper of the axle. i used for the job a axle puller and standard 3 bolt puller a big hammer and heat. i spent about a day trying to remove one drum with no success. so i ended up die grinding around the wheel studs de adjusting the rear brake and removing the drum as alot of american stuff have the drums held on the hubs by knurling of the wheel studs. i was only changing a snapped wheel stud and was able to change it with the drum removed. and all other studs were reused as i only die grinded the knurling away carefully. also at the time another tech said they spent a week many years ago to remove one drum/hub to do the wheel bearings as they get super locked up on the taper. on an old chrysler. if it is just to do brake work i would just remove the knurling of the studs to get the drum off then drill and tap the hub and drill drum and use a tapered cap screw to locate and secure the drum to the hub if you were worried about the drum elongating the stud holes.

Its nice to see this is being worked on now that the holden is done. i still remember going in this for one of the shed raid days also a fan about the car having a cool backstory and history and for owning it for that long! also what efi system are you going to run? keep us updated

The new ride height looks much better. Also on the fuel sender they earth through the tank and can cause all sorts of level issues. so all this old stuff i solder a wire or terminal onto the sender and bolt an earth wire onto the chassis somewhere. also good idea while your there is to test the accuracy of the gauge and sender. and bend the sender to suit as much of the repro senders can be junk great progress

looks like that side would be the outside. and the other side would press into the hub. hub and spindle setup im guessing? as i cant see any other way the seal would be retained to the hub most style seals ive used like that have a steel other flange and bottom steel ring to press into a hub. but the photo you put up doesn't look like its a steel ring to press in

these clamps are a cheap and simple and quick clamp to use when in a production line. which is why they are used but are more of a single use clamp as once they have been opened and closed a few times can cannot provide enough clamp pressure to stop coolant seeping past. And they can be tricky to get off or move and are good for making you bleed or flying across the room.

personally would just run standard screw driver style clamps but the ones with no holes in them as it bites into the hose. can buy black ones too. i personally like zebra brand ones from wurth. And can't really overtighten the item as the clamp just strips too have seen T bolt style clamps on standard rubber radiator hoses cut the hose on the edge of the clamp causing them to leak but that could be because they were overtighten or that brand were sharp on the edge. but personally think they can be quite bulky looking.

I think the cooling issue you have is not a air flow related issue. More air will help but is a band aid for another issue. i think the problem you have is that the water is not spending enough time getting cooled in the radiator because the water speed is too fast. A couple ways to solve it is too pull the radiator out and have it triple or double passed so the water spends more time in the radiator and has to flow in a circuit rather than straight in and out. or machine a piece or use a frost plug and drill a hole in it and place it in the bottom hose perhaps which will slow the flow down. this is a trick that has been used before and from what ive heard helps. would be a good way to know if your going in the right direction without pulling the car to bits. this trick i was going to do on the galaxie to help with the getting hot issue. ive also got some frost plugs so if you want to try it and know the size flick me a pm

Also seen some bc adjustable's on facebook marketplace if you wanted some second hand items

Nice m8 We should do a big body date I quite like my factory air with a controller. Can have high boy 4wd spec and nice static low for catching speedbumps. Would like to know more about the apexi computer though

Hey mate Im not sure if you are aware of this or not but mounting the msd 6al boxs inside the vehicle can cause unwanted noises into the vehicle cabin in the sound of electrical noises. ive not experienced this noise myself but have been made well aware of it. but understand your logic in fitting it where it is nice work on what has been done so far anyhow

I turned up about 2 mins due of the movie starting at 8pm but waited for about 10 before it started watched American graffiti and drove straight in no security or anything. but wasn't many cars i was the only car in the back row other than the projector truck. but suspect this being the first one of the year

Can confirm this is a great way to see a movie and good excuse to get your car out. Probably a good date idea.. But I don't have that much success

while in the nelson region i highly recommend the nelson car museum in town. its actually really good. oh and the wanaka car museum is also great. did a bit of a looksie last year and was great.

With recommendation i tried it can confirm does not work. these suckers are on quite tight. Also had @RXFORD work his magic on the lip on the front gaurds so now i get much more lock and less rub but won't damage the tyre now in other progress the car has had a oil change And the drivers handbreak cable has been unseized. I was lucky that my young nephews decided they wanted to help so ended up pulling both cables out and both lubricated and working nicely. Also removed the door lock buttons and gave them a bead blast and paint. Im still having an issue where this runs on the hot side more than i like. When sitting in traffic the temp climbs to 200F and will climb up to 215F if you sit there long enough have not noticed it boil or blow coolant out though. Many say FE motors tend to run hot. have fitted a front pusher electric fan on a switch which helps to maintain the temperature but looking to solve this issue altogether. spoke to radiator shop who thinks adding an extra core into it should help it. Its currently a factory 2 core rad. will also move trans cooler and move electric fan closer to the top rad hose. but also on the fence with replacing rad with bigger aluminum unit and fitting falcon electric fans and shroud. which will also mean my alternator will need upgrading. otherwise the car got a easy pass WOF and have been using it. Did kumeu with the OS boys Also my rear leaf springs appear to be resetting themselves to a lower setting now. can confirm with @RXFORD and dog in the back the left rear tyre rubs round corners better living everyone

I would be fitting a relay to the front lights that's for sure helps with light output and load on the system as the wiring on these old cars can be quite bad. and definitely when upgrading the lights

What have they failed the belts on? When I complied the galaxie I had to go through seatbelt stuff which cletus ended up doing paperwork for to keep the lap belts

I'm currently trying to find the correct paperwork to fill out for a vehicle re registration purpose. Old owner de rego'd it and I purchased off him and want a paper trail that I bought it off him. To comply it again. I'm aware I can do a statutory of declaration but trying to find a vehicle specific one. But also old owner isn't local so can't just fill one out and get it signed etc Been to a local vtnz but they didn't have a clue and told me to ring nzta. And checked with a compliance officer and he is going to send me the file which is on nzta apparently. But who knows when I've searched and can't find any documents on nzta. Anyone know what form?

Yup 100% Would use dry glide myself as can get in a aerosol can to get in there and doesn't seem to dry out

you could use rubber grease silicon spray or crc dry glide.