smokin'joe

what!! no mention of tape and zip-ties ??

i used to run Fuchs in my 5L-E , but i don't reckon the money saved out weigh other oils. for some reason, first oil change on freshly imported Isuzu mid-sized commercials, Fuchs smoked like they were running on coal.

have you priced re-packing the battery cases from the guy in Blenhole that advertises on the Tard ?? i still run most of the 5-piece DeWalt kit i bought 15 years ago, still get good runtime out of the ni-cads that came with the replacement drill i got 5-6 years ago, adittedly, i havent thrashed them daily , all day for 2 years, but they still get a workout daily

ususally smaller pump creates more water as the motor is constantly running, generating heat that then condenses into water in the tank. fucked the finish on several furniture/ joinery items due to running small direct drive compressors way back in the day. i use my trusty Ingersoll Rand 16cfm for everything now

spot prime with wee compressor, but do the full top coats with decent (12CFM +) compressor, even it you have to borrow/hire you won't regret it. wee compressors with wee tanks create to much water and will screw your paint ( even with water trap)

by rights, that cylinder pictured should have 2 lines connected to it, due to the outward shape of the seat to suit the fares on pipe ends. bleed nipples usually go into convex seat

would be a major thring to 2 seater those buggies, as the occupants will be outside the rollcage unless that is widened as well. I suspect I do know the seller, though I still have that 2-seater frame here if you want a project for kids, price starts from FREE to a small donation, depending on what stays in it. will be in the scrapbin quite soon, otherwise.

worth going just to see the Chills, a couple of beers wouldn't go astray , either.

for joining/sealing corners, is there an ali extrusion available that is similar profile to those manky plastic Hardies jointers ??

motor looks like Suzy 2 stroke TS/TF/TC (all very similar apart from gearbox ratios, from my jaded memeory)

unsure if it would matter. i'd be guessing that anyone with a yard full of gear will be sub-contracted in. omms up there is apatchy as power is still down in many places. My sister and partner got choppered home to Kaikoura yesterday. house is all good but everything else is smashed. might head if up the call arises.

after the rumble I slept through last nite, there'll be an imperial fuckton of work for you. trying to decide if I can bullshit enough to head up there if the current house purchase falls through

what struts are you using ? if you decided to use Nissan struts, then there is you main problem......... fit Toyota ones with RCA's

leave my lawnmowers out of this........... unless w cut one up for eats

you reckon, very similar weight to a complete, dry manual V6 Commode motor with loom and bell. sub 200kg on a pallet . but back on topic, bored and stroked 2tg on sides for period doorts

define "light as hell being full alloy" love to know the composition of the crank/flywheel/cams and rods

2tg on sideys.............. keep it period

I believe Clint is referring to re-fitting the rack offset to cure a fuck-up made by pushing motor too far back. OP have 3 options really 1. move motor forward to get clearance 2. return the shell to steering box set-up. 3. get a real engine

but hang on, you are not the first person to install a rotary into a corolla, and I bet (or I fucking hope) they don't fuck with the rack to install the engine. what parts are contacting ?

one does not need to fuck with the rack. I put you wrong earlier, rally car has TE71 X-member with KE70 rack mounts and rack, (AE70 unit is in spare shell) the RH engine brace is easily modified by machining (or grinding) the bosses off then counter sinking the holes that attach it to the block. get countersunk cap screws(may need to have heads turned down) to replace standard bolts. the bolt that retains the steering U/J to the rack is replaced with a button head cap screw in doing these 3 things, 15-20mm clearance is achieved taking the brace off allows the bell housing to flex, with inturn stretches flywheel bolts, resulting in flywheel walking off the crank. VERY FUCKEN DANGEROUS !!!!!!!

what motor are you running? I have 3T with AE70 x-member/rack and with some minor re-work, clearancing the lower steering u/j . what ever you do, DO NOT run it without RH bellhousing brace, as you will fucking regret it very fucken big time !!!

so not the Tanner saw bench and planner , currently at $102 ? can paste link, as computer is being a dick !!

haha, just found the said machine and asked a question or 2 for you. good solid machine, but current owner seems like a complete twat.

Luke, make sure it's got 6 inch blades, anything smaller is a waste of time. I had a small Masport/Dyco 8 x 4 and was hopeless. 8" blade would stall and 4" buzzer bed was too short. doweller was OK, tho.