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ho ho hoooo park your peepers to the 500m mark and check out the latest edition of RX125 escapades As previously mentioned, carb has been doing mega wees out the overflow of the carb bowl, and i set out to rectify this problem. Well fuck me dead this drove me up the damn wall. no matter where the floats were set, it would leak out the overflow. i had two carbs to test out, and both leaked when i put fuel through them. There's not much information on these bikes on the innerwebs. seems they have been forgotten/no one gives a fuck about them enough to put any decent info up online. the closest spec i could find was 21mm float height. After setting both carbs to this height i was still getting wees all over the motor. adjusting the float height either way by bending the brass tab was not changing anything. Only way it would stop leaking was if you set the floats so high that the needle valve was closed all the time. This should have raised alarm bells to me... turns out the overflow tube in the float bowl was loose - meaning any amount of fuel in the bowl would wee out the overflow. perhaps in the ultrasonic clean this had been rattled loose or it was like that beforehand. I guess the other carb i had had a fucked needle/seat which was giving me a false negative type set up. So yea have a video of it running nicely all on its own, no choke no leaks! it does a tiny dribble out the overflow which can be solved with a little fine tuning of the float height, but stoked that its holding its fluids like a big boy. NANGS Can someone whos not a spoon like me embed it haha Only a few minor jobs to do - free up sticky throttle cable - fit joiner elbow thing to airbox/carb and tune properly - get all lights working properly etc - get a mirror - take it for a decent spin - revin!

belfast auto. they're good buggers and they know the car, but i dont get any special treatment. i'm going through it this weekend but its only done a couple of thousand ks this year, few cans of degreaser on the gearbox and some lollies on the passenger seat for bribes and she'll be right

Eventually got tired of the high life and found some cheap Hayashi Street CR mags with good tyres. Found springs at zebra that fit result: I think I'd like to bring the front down some more, the back sits just a little lower. I found some unknown mitsi shocks for the rear, and had bushings machined to suit. Such a huge improvement from the boat-like handling characteristics it previously represented. I just installed standard front shock inserts to get the front stiffened up. New Nolathane went in all round, too. On the lookout for a diff, this one has done nearly 300K and it makes some pretty terrible noises, not to mention both wheel bearings need replacing. The plan here is to sort another replacement diff (E312), new brakes and bearings/seals/clean and then install. To keep me busy until I sort the diff, I went ahead and tracked down a 1G-GE, courtesy of a fellow GX enthusiast. Sold in an unknown cond. I didn't really know what to expect. This should be a big improvement from the asthmatic SOHC 1G, having double the valves, bigger ports, and a cross-flow head. Although it won't be as simple as cleaning it up and putting it in, as it turns out it ran bearing number 2 and churned the metal filings from said bearing around the engine. Thankfully, the leaky SOHC 1G I pulled out earlier has put its hand up to donate the crank and rods. They have the same sized mains, too. (later 1G engines had different sized main bearings). That's all for now. Once the SOHC motor is pulled down and the crank and rods are test fit I'll send the block off for a dip and the head to be machined.

I'd suggest you call the lvvta number and have a chat.

Only first registered post 1 April 1994 will have a VIN. I would have though that a chassis number would be OK for certificaction?

Hi All, I'm struggling to find the VIN on my Commer Van. The engineer needs a pic of it for LVV cert. I can find it on carjam and I can find the chassis and body number but the VIN is eluding me thus far. If it turns out I can't find it, am I going to have to drag it down to VINZ? Lord help me...

I will take it for a hoon if I can fit on it

I used Automotive Blasting in Pukekohe a few years ago to do a car for me. Worth talking to as well. Nothing wrong with Autoblast, but heard from a number of people he's bloody expensive.

Just discovered today that this rim will accept the tyre off a cessna 152 and the width is ok to clear the frame. Will try it and decide if it's worth doing is a pretty big baloony looking thing but would be similar size to front wheel....

I will have pricing to zinc arc spray my projects' chassis and deck etc tomorrow, I can let you know how it stacks up.

Full face mask with the right filters would be the go. I just brush mine on outside, don't want my garage stinking. If you have the coin, have someone blast the chassis and 2 pot epoxy it. Ready to go.

5 or 6? Left a trail

Update on the open chequebook: It has been up North getting work done for compliance, and so far has 15mm to go until the chassis is completely straight, and the front inner guard has been cut off to straighten out any creases caused by the impact. The creases were a fair bit more than thought, up under the strut tower and the engine bay was pretty bent, but it's had a massive weight attached to it and pulled the creases out where possible, and then will be softly hammered with Billy Mavs back into place. But the headlight surround area is too smashed, so a new piece will be made and welded in. Coming along nicely, it's just a shame to not have any control of it as a project at the moment. Most of pics go to Instagram as I forget to update here so much. Feel free to follow along @theamyable.

So I got the block into the boring bar. It's pretty straight forward boring a block. Doing a cylinder liner is a bit more involved as far as the boring bar is concerned. This block is at 30thou over or .75mm in metric. I have bought 40thou over or 1.mm pistons. It has a bit of wear. But hopefully it's should clean up once it's honed. This picture is of a test cut. So you dial the boring bar head into the bore. If you have a decent amount of wear it pays to slightly offset the bar towards the wear so you clean all going well at the next oversize. So in this picture you can see the boring bar hasn't totally cleaned with this size cut. I have only set the bar at 81.90mm. So I have .1mm or 4thou to hone out to get to our finished size of 82mm. We generally like to leave this amount to hone to achieve good rk rvk this is the depth of hone pattern. I'll go into that a bit more once we get to honing it. Once we've finished honing we normally go to the surface grinder. The top of the block is a little corroded so I'll probably take a few cuts to clean it up. So I've done a light cut to see how it looks You can see it still needs more off it. In this case it's not a issue to take more off the deck. When you are dealing with a late model diesel or performance engines that have been set up with good tight clearances it pays to watch how much your removing as you may have to detop your pistons as they may start getting to close to the head once assembled. Also valve reliefs can also need deepening. But this is more so a issue in extreme cases. This good old xflow should be fine. But i will be checking all this later once i can dumby the engine up

Made a MASSIVE rookie mistake yesterday, drove from tauranga to Hamilton without checking the oli before i left so the car started making some horrific noises before i pulled over and put oil in (were i found it was bone dry) but the damage was done and we broke down about 3 times trying to limp home but barely made it out of Hamilton before completely shitting out. So ending the day on the back of a tow truck and now i have some trouble shooting to do to find out whats really gone on and to decided on what is the best way to get it back on the road, be it fixing it or engine swap (but with what!?) //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54160-greenies-mitsubishi-galant-sigma-discussion/

Okay so i picked up my rear springs last week and even tho it was raining sunday i convinced dad to move one of hes cars out of the shed so i could work inside, and after it taking me less than 5 mins to do the rears it took me about 6 more hrs to figure out the fronts as removing the front strut out of one of these is not as straight forward as anyother car ive seen.. but in any case its done. Its still not as low as id like but its a solid 30-40mm lower so cant complain. Might look into getting the springs compressed later but for now itll do Discussion here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54160-greenies-mitsubishi-galant-sigma-discussion/

Right, only a small post today but ive had a few things arrive. My ebay steering wheel and boss kit arrived (cheap,nasty and fast delivery, cant go wrong) As well as my front lowering springs which will go in once the rear ones turn up. Thats all, thanks all //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54160-greenies-mitsubishi-galant-sigma-discussion/

Right so with the lack of funds this week just decided to do what I could with what I had, so I managed to move the mirrors around and put them up the front, I re glued the chrome strip round the top of the windscreen, and also replaced the starter motor as the one that was on there was getting little tired. So starts first pop nowith:) Was also about to paint my rims and stick them on although now I am in desperate need of lowering