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Bring the HQ!

The correct tie rod end arrived a couple of days ago thankfully before the wof grace period ran out; And so this just happened; And I was greeted by a complementary bit of even leakier wedgieness which was an irresistible photo op; So fucking excited.

Not much progress to report but lots of technical stuff going on with the design/fab of my headers, so sorry but this will be a nerdy post.. not claiming to be an expert, just figuring out how to make stuff work.. So here's my scratching for re-checking my length. Unfortunately I need to run 4-2-1 header as I can't fit 4x runners under the steering rack. The expansion chamber clashes with the swaybar (wasn't in the car when I mounted it argh!), meaning I've needed to push it back another 100mm. I'll need to incorporate the slip joins into the '2' section (because bottom section will be permanently attached to exp. chamber) as this is the easiest place to get the runners parallel where they'll slow into place.. This means my 9" secondaries are going to look more like 12", which by keeping overall length the same, will mean my primaries are getting close to 15-16" (which is the minimum as I understand it). In summary its complicated..... With restrictions in tube sizes available (above calcs is inches ID), I've had to go for 44OD primaries (works out well as is the same size as exhaust port) and 57OD secondaries. Secondaries in particular will be a little larger than optimum considering it's only a 30" long pipe, so it will likely favour higher RPM's. As long its making solid power from 5-6krpm I'll be happy. 2zz's have a massive torque hole at 4krpm so I'll be bringing the high cam in as soon as possible. Might also push me to add a big cam sooner rather than later.. Found this super interesting paper on the development of the 2zzge. Pretty much says they designed this awesome high-revving engine and then proceeded to put a terrible exhaust manifold on it to reduce noise emissions and wasted all the hard work they put into the head etc. https://www.lotustalk.com/attachments/toyota2zz-ge-technical-data-pdf.1297134/ For the header design, I'm following the theory laid out in Graham Bell's Four stroke performance tuning book. Main examples are based on 2L touring car engines, which is pretty comparable to what I'm doing (12:1 comp, itbs & 9000rpm). All my sizing/calcs are firmly in what he defines as purely 'racecar' realm... I also think engine & ecu technology has moved on since early 00's which has proven you can get away with a lot bigger tubes than the 'old' rules of thumb. I'm using an adaption of a venturi collector design with a centre divider plate. Apparently the venturi and divider plate should be equal-sided triangle 1/2" bigger than the primary tube. Nailed the fabrication on the secondaries in particular which I'm proud of. Will be interesting to see if these work as it does essentially create 2x venturi effects in the same collector - 1 where the pipes join, then a second as it expands to secondary. Who knows if this will work as intended? So this is my crossmember conundrum... I ended up needing a small bend between the collector and expansion chamber which is another compromise.. Primaries are roughed-out in Kinex blocks. These are a bit of a spaghetti junction as the 2-3 cylinder runners need to go the furthest so need to take the 'under' route. No doubt these will be refined a few more times as I confirm the position of the secondaries. I plan on tacking secondaries up to slip join, then start back at the top and work my way down. Wish me luck!! All this learning has taught me is everything is a small compromise when it won't fit in the car. Exactly how the power band will work out is yet to be seen, I won't be surprised if I end up making a few variations as I test these.. just got to keep putting in the effort and one day this damn car will be finished!

Remember it's a Fiat.

* cm009 for a long option https://www.autobend.co.nz/exhaust-products/hardware/mounts

@Nominal probably already found them but for future reference assume these are them (sans picture) https://webstore.autobend.co.nz/product/fiat-124-125-132-short-hooks-10028.htmx

Dont you live in Dunedin? Thats only a 5 hour jaunt.

Don't you enjoy reaching under there and giving the glass fuses a gentle rub between the fingers to get it going?

Can supply those boxes in disassembled form so crimp your own adventure to suit, with 4 or 5 pin relays

Nice link, gives me an idea to ditch all 10!! of the glass fuses in the falcon.

Pretty sure we'll be flying and driving a Wounders Inctm vehicle from Cheech to Hanmer. You're welcome to join, @azzurro, as long as you're willing to put up with us for a few days.

This month we're convening a week early to suit Mr Vivaspeed's busy, busy schedule (lubs) At last months meet we had a chat about high class, fancy pants places to meet for the Winter/Cooler months and we decided on Fisherman's Table for this months dining experience. Deets: Day: Thursday 9th May Time: TBD (probably around 7pm) Where: Fisherman's Table, Paekakariki MAP! Please let me know in the discussion thread so I can book for semi accurate numbers. Who doesn't love a salad boat?!

BUMP. Not worth starting a new thread but I have to re-wire a couple of cars. Namely a series landy and a 67 econoline. I'm not a fan of those wiring kits although I did enjoy using the American Auto Wire model specific one for my Chev. It was rather pricey however. Does anybody know where I can get bulk wiring for cheap? I like the look and feel of the SXL wiring and the last one I got was from Amazon here. Does anybody know where I can get it in bulk for cheap? Temu? Ali Baba? Jaycar? I use this as my fuse/relay block seeing as I'm lucky to even have a heater fan let alone a stereo. I don't need much.

Come up with @Truenotch @TimShadboltfan27

best DIY option is probablly an arduino something like this sort of setup https://thecavepearlproject.org/how-to-build-an-arduino-data-logger/, could setup code to run engine protection output with a kill relay or intercept the IAT signal and setup the delco iat table to pull timing etc at a set value, IIRC fault value open circuit they default the -40deg row with a bit of messing around would be able to piggyback off data like tps maf and rpm to have the whole lot logged in one package. most of the commercially available loggers are getting up into aftermarket ecu territory any way, so would be money better spent on an ecu upgrade with the added benefit of onboard logging

Thanks Bart, you are right we DO deserve it. Unfortunately its a punishing drive (2 days each way) and my good lady vowed to never do it again after Nats, at least not in the the 2300 (which had a strong fuel smell inside and a loud exhaust, at least then)!

I hear you for sure it may go to a dyno initially to get the driveablity sorted but I want to develop further afterwards. If im able to set up some of the dyno features in the car I can use those as engine protection later on. In theory could be a cheap way for others if it works strain gauges are cheap and give good information once you can read it through software im just wanting a non commercial solution to it so it's affordable.

Yeah it realistically could probably the subframe under the mount Could be a good location thinner metal more deflection so may yield a wider range of readings. I like your thinking there. For background i used to Install these on machines like lifting davits and forklifts to give live data to the operator on the loading. I've now twigged it could be useful for tuning and wonder what automotive monitoring equipment might be suitable.

with that investment is it not that far off just going to a dyno for a day. seems stupid to put 500 and a whooooole bunch of your time into making it all work to somethign thats half assed anyways. when a day on dyno be 1k or whatever and your done.

Could the strain gauge go in the engine mount? Would that lessen the wonky readings from bumps etc?

Hmm If I was going to try it would need a fairly consistent smooth road to give it beans on. Like perhaps an airfield or drag strip I think i can handle that. Find a way of filtering the data a bit harder, I think I may get in touch with Mantracourt and see what they recommend a Bluetooth module is about $500 from them and gets access to some very powerful and software. Hardest part would be calibration though accuracy isn't overly important I just want to be able to see a graph where I can figure out if I made more torque than last run after tuning tweaks.

Cheers Chris. Interestingly the other chris @chris r recons he's got some for me too I'll be able to fill the whole cabin at this rate. It'll be one super quiet, slightly itchy ride.

@azzurro you and your good lady wife both deserve a weekend in Hanmer i feel.

Yes I should get along again. Where does one seek accommodation these days? It's been a fair turn since my last outing