Big A's 68 Crown Wagon

[BigA]

I have used newtech before but will look into the upol d option as well

[RXFORD]

I Agree with Harry, don't get involved in lead work unless you are proficient in it and the paintshop you plan to use is confident in your process. Alot of paintshops won't warranty lead work if they didn't do it or its not factory.

Just let the bodyshop decide how they will fill the deeper seam sections, that way if it fails its on them. 

 

[Carsnz123]

A thought on your engine ideas. What was your plan for engine management? If you're set on usuing a 2gr-fse you'll need a pricy aftermarket ecu to control the direct injection element. Fitting all the wiring and can related things from a donor car becomes a messy exercise fairly fast. Usuing a 2gr-fe makes your life a lot easier. 

[BigA]

At the moment I am still weighing up best bang for buck. Looking at the toyota series engines anything like the 1jz/2jz is so expensive to buy and the 2gr-fse/2gr-fe option is hell of a lot cheaper. 

Hadn't really thought much on engine management side of things as I have e yet to get to that point.

I have heard from someone who use to work for toyota is that the fe has better options as far as modifications you can do like cams etc and with the fse it can become a little more expensive.

[Carsnz123]

You really need to look at the drivetrain as a complete package when deciding. Staying away from anything direct injection will make the engine management side of things easier. 

If you're going down the route of it being auto then a 6G7x from mitsubishi is an option. The trans in the Pajero is a variant of the aisin A340 so the bellhousing bolts to the toyota RWD A340. There is a reasonable amount of performance parts available for them too. 

[RXFORD]

What diam wire are you running in mig?

 

Getting doors off yahoo shipped over would be an expensive exercise. Surely a local shop could do some corner patches for ya to save the hassle of importing shit thats probably just as bad?

[BigA]

Managed to score 4 doors out of Aus for $150 each from the same guy that supplied me my rear lower cut and the badge for my guard so I'm happy about that.

Also hoping he has another mirror for my passengers side door 

[440bbm]

Sincerely hope those doors arrive to you in the same condition as they were packed in. Being shipped laying down like that is likely to have heavy shit dropped on top, and/or pallet forks poked into the top door skin from attempting to pick something up that's loaded on top.

If you can, get them to stand the doors upright, much much safer from getting squished.

NO TOP STOW stickers dont work as carriers DGAF and only care about getting their truck stacked full - and the the higher they put it up the stack in truck has a higher chance of getting pallet fork damage.

[Nominal]

Pallet packing made me twitch too.

[tortron]

I made some similar things to do the floor in my ute. I used a press, but some things i learned

i made 2x square 19mm plywood, with the same size hole in each of them. With plenty of overlap for the panel (2 or 3 times the diam of the circle) and zinged self tapping wood screws all around the edge. This helped a lot to keep any wrinking of the surrounding flat to a minimum.

Then i welded a few pieces of 10mm steel together and spun it in a drillpress and shaped it with a grinder to make the correct floor shape, i made this maybe 2mm smaller than the hole in the bucks

as you will have a hole in it to do this, what you can then do is drill a hole dead centre in the sheet metal you are shaping. without a press, you can put another plate of 10mm steel on the other side of your wooden bucks and using a greased up bolt, ugaduga the two together. 1mmis steel will shape really well this way, and might save you some elbow with the hammer