1938 Chrysler brake drums.

[crash]

Recently my Dad bought a 1938 Chrysler coupe. Pretty original, been sitting in dry shed since early 1970's. Does anyone here know how to pull of the rear drums? He's been on a couple of forums and apparently they are well know to be an arse to get off. Puller has had a few good smacks, bit of heat applied etc.

Also should I put a bit of a thread on here? if so where?

Cheers

[Nominal]

Maybe you need a fabricated puller like this, to apply force better/more evenly. It looks like there are threaded holes in the drum to bolt it to?

[crash]

Yes, the threaded holes are for the wheel bolts. 

[RUNAMUCK]

@Carsnz123

[Unclejake]

Are you sure the bolts you're using to anchor the puller aren't passing through the drum and into the axle flange?

I don't know the vehicle so can only otherwise offer sledge hammer,  chains, heat, pry bar and sweat advice

[cletus]

I assume you have taken the center nut off and the puller is pulling the axle flange , and the middle part of the puller is pulling against the end of the axle shaft? 

 

Looks like it's on a very shallow taper so yeah I imagine that would be a prick to get off  

Lots of heat on the axle flange and the bit on the taper would be my suggestion  

[piazzanoob]

I think you and @cletus are on the right track. 

i have worked on a early 60s plymouth which same in the rear end to remove the rear drums requires a puller because the drums get stuck on the taper of the axle. 

i used for the job a axle puller and standard 3 bolt puller a big hammer and heat. i spent about a day trying to remove one drum with no success. 

so i ended up die grinding around the wheel studs de adjusting the rear brake and removing the drum as alot of american stuff have the drums held on the hubs by knurling of the wheel studs. i was only changing a snapped wheel stud and was able to change it with the drum removed. and all other studs were reused as i only die grinded the knurling away carefully.

also at the time another tech said they spent a week many years ago to remove one drum/hub to do the wheel bearings as they get super locked up on the taper. on an old chrysler.

if it is just to do brake work i would just remove the knurling of the studs to get the drum off then drill and tap the hub and drill drum and use a tapered cap screw to locate and secure the drum to the hub if you were worried about the drum elongating the stud holes.

    

[crash]

6 hours ago, Unclejake said:

Are you sure the bolts you're using to anchor the puller aren't passing through the drum and into the axle flange?

I don't know the vehicle so can only otherwise offer sledge hammer,  chains, heat, pry bar and sweat advice

Yep pretty sure. Sledge hammer and puller cranked up. 

[crash]

Thanks for the advice, looks like a better bigger puller and more heat. 

[Carsnz123]

They are a right pain to get off. A very sturdy puller is required and shock NOT HEAT. 

At my old job we had a unit like this which worked wonders. The middle bit is hydraulic. The puller we use at work for doing that job is a big hefty cast unit which you can pull up with a 50 40 inch breaker bar without worrying about bending it. Its got solid striking face to hit with a decent sized hammer. Squirt CRC up the keyway. load it up hard with a bigger puller then solidly strike the centre of the puller with a decent sized hammer. make sure you have the nut loosely screwed on the end of the axle to prevent the puller shooting across the workshop. 

[GregT]

When the hubs were removed off the Mk2 Jag we then had - in order to put wires on it. The Jag factory puller was left on a rear hub overnight at max tension up on the hoist.  When the workshop warmed up the following morning there was a loud bang and the hub/puller lump knocked a concrete block out of the workshop wall. Luckily I knew the workshop owner well.....

These things can do damage coming off. Be careful