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Dump pipe contacts brake booster


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My hella sweet dump pipe is unfortunately just kissing the outer housing of the brake booster on the starion. It bolts up and all but is just resting against it as it sits, I'm worried about heat transfer into the booster, and what happens as the engine loads up and leans 

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I thought about milling a mm or two from the dump pipe flange and turbine outlet and inlet flanges to try and drop the whole thing down and forwards a bit, but the mongrel in me wants to know if a little tap in the right place on the booster might be all it takes? I know there's a diaphragm in there which would go south if it were upset but I'm not sure where it sits relative to that outer casing

Surely someone here has fabbed up a sweet dump pipe and elected to reshape their booster for that little bit more clearance? How did that work out for you? 

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19 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

I have melted brake master cylinder plastic at about that proximity. 

 

Also is there a smaller diameter booster readily available. Most cars are over boosted from factory in my opinion. 

Yeah I was wondering if there was another booster available... not a lot of starion info around anymore, American knowledge base is still up and running but of course their booster is on the other side so not an issue

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20 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

Can you cut the pipe off the flange and shorten the pipe by 20mm? 
What heat shielding have you planned for the brake master cylinder?

Not really, I've got a siamesed wastegate pipe directly below that which means there'd be no access to re-weld it

I could either make up a separate shield for the reservoir or relocate it I guess.

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just got word that a 1980 dodge challenger brake booster bolts straight up and is 2" smaller in diameter. The yank starion owners did run into this issue when they started doing v8 swaps (two weeks after the starion was first released)

 

 

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^That.

Could always make use of that space to the side? Seems a lot less work and hassle than installing a different booster. Even if you do that, master is still going to boil alive since there is no space to fit suitable shielding and still be clear when engine moves as Clint said. Hard to say though as there is limited context for space from the photo.

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yeah it's not quite as bad vs the clutch master as the photo makes out, the dump pipe does duck away a bit more than it looks

I remember reading an article somewhere about the effects of press bending vs mandrel bending on exhaust, and they said the same thing, until you get seriously ridiculous and crush half the pipe, press bending (on in my case, just denting) the pipe had no real effect

Because the pipe is siamesed, any adjustments to it have to be copied over onto the wastegate pipe below it. And welding the seams between the two is very very tricky. I keep coming back to faffing around with the booster etc because if I can't ding the pipe (which i probably will) I don't think re-shaping it is really an option without starting all over again

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I suppose another option would be to cut the main pipe above the flexi and then bring it in and have it hug the wastegate pipe all the way up, the final seal into the flange would have to be done by welding it up from the inside though

 

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Why have such a large waste gate pipe? Are you planning on running low boost? What about a bellmouth at the turbo flange into a single down pipe so you can move it forward away from the brake stuff. It seems a bit backward to me to change the brake booster because you made the pipe wrong.

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44 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

Why have such a large waste gate pipe? Are you planning on running low boost? What about a bellmouth at the turbo flange into a single down pipe so you can move it forward away from the brake stuff. It seems a bit backward to me to change the brake booster because you made the pipe wrong.

the long wastegate pipe was just to try and keep the main downpipe flow nice and smooth, there was no real science to it. I don't quite get what you mean by a bellmouth? This particular turbine housing has a wall between the two outlets so I can't really just block up the wastegate flange and have everything exit out the main pipe

If the dodge booster is as bolt-in as they say, it'd surely be less effort than reshaping the upper pipe... actually I suppose the flexi joint means I could lean the upper pipe inboard and try to curve it around

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3 minutes ago, Dolan said:

I like how the op doesn't listen to posts and could've jist sorted this out on his own instead of publicly on his own.

 

Xox

my original question was about whether or not it was OK to massage the booster. oddly enough some people on another forum have said they have done it without any ill effects. Not really that keen to though. your input was really helpful though 

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