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Weird 4afe noise after cambelt change..?


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I just checked, the timing is stupidly far advanced.

Good work team. I will check that shit now.

I am super dumb about ecu stuff, what effect will bridging the pins have?

Where the fuck is the port as well?

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Port will be near strut tower by air intake pipe probably. Will say DIAGNOSTIC or similar

 

The way those old EFI systems work is that the distributor will just send a spark at a set timing point unless it receives a timing override signal from the ECU. Bridging those terminals stops the signal from getting to the distributor.

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5 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

Port will be near strut tower by air intake pipe probably. Will say DIAGNOSTIC or similar

 

The way those old EFI systems work is that the distributor will just send a spark at a set timing point unless it receives a timing override signal from the ECU. Bridging those terminals stops the signal from getting to the distributor.

So if it's messed up how do I reset it?

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You'll have to get your cams in the right place relative to the crankshaft. There's practically no way someone has adjusted the distributor so far when compensating for belt wear as to put the timing out by like 15 degrees.

 

Bridging and unbridging those connections gives instant result for locking/unlocking the timing

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9 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

You'll have to get your cams in the right place relative to the crankshaft. There's practically no way someone has adjusted the distributor so far when compensating for belt wear as to put the timing out by like 15 degrees.

 

Bridging and unbridging those connections gives instant result for locking/unlocking the timing

I just checked, the cam timing is correct. The notch at tdc on the crank pulley, the hole and notch line up at the top.

Should I bridge and release that timing thingy, and will it bring the timing back?

How would it have gotten so far out?

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Yeah, some are TE and some are T.

 

Timing should be set to like 10 deg btdc with the TE1 and E1 bridged. There may be a sticker on your bonnet that gives the exact number for your vehicle config.

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Just now, ajg193 said:

Yeah, some are TE and some are T.

 

Timing should be set to like 10 deg btdc with the TE1 and E1 bridged. There may be a sticker on your bonnet that gives the exact number for your vehicle config.

Alrighty, I will do that.

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Also, probably best to not listen to a single thing I say as I am neither a Toyota Mechanic nor do I currently own one of these fantastic engines.

 

EDIT: can confirm that manual I linked to says 10 deg with TE1 and E1 bridged

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Well I did that and the timing was set to very far advanced, maybe 25-30 deg. It was rotated as far one way as it could go. I have reset it to 10 deg and will go for a drive....

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33 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

Also, probably best to not listen to a single thing I say as I am neither a Toyota Mechanic nor do I currently own one of these fantastic engines.

 

EDIT: can confirm that manual I linked to says 10 deg with TE1 and E1 bridged

Dude, that shit is sorted. It drives like a new car.

Cheers all, your input is genuinely appreciated.

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