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Nick's Datto 1600


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  • 5 months later...
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If you're keen on pulling the carbs to bits, we can sort you out with using the wet blaster (vapor blaster) at uni. It cleans up aluminium casting like nothing else I've ever used. Simply amazing.

internal coating stuff sounds like complete waffle.

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Just now, ProZac said:

If you're keen on pulling the carbs to bits, we can sort you out with using the wet blaster (vapor blaster) at uni. It cleans up aluminium casting like nothing else I've ever used. Simply amazing.

internal coating stuff sounds like complete waffle.

Seriously? well keen on that, was planning on dropping the whole lot off to a fella I know with one, the finish is just awesome! 

There are posts about Nissan throttle bodies that strong cleaners rip a coating off, my interpretation was guys pulled the butterflies and never took care to seat them properly, giving the impression of a removed coating.

how much do you have to strip down for blasting or do you just have at it?

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For the throttlebodies I'd strip them completely last part. The media will get everywhere. It's worth it though. Get all the steel bits zinc plated and gold chromated, they'll look better than brand new :-). Hit me up on the ol faebos and we'll sort it :-).

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Just now, ProZac said:

For the throttlebodies I'd strip them completely last part. The media will get everywhere. It's worth it though. Get all the steel bits zinc plated and gold chromated, they'll look better than brand new :-). Hit me up on the ol faebos and we'll sort it :-).

Sounds good, i'll have a close look at what I have to do to strip them and be in touch about blasting "It won't happen overnight, but it will happen"

Darn you for suggesting gold chromate, that is actually a really good idea

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  • 10 months later...
6 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

I'd go with the A87 head.

The closed chambers will give better combustion dynamics. 

 

Totally agree, if it passes all the key inspections I think it will get skimmed, the ports cleaned up, reassembled and matched with new flat top pistons in the block.

Just don't want to get all carried away and excited until I have confirmation it is healthy enough to continue with

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Start with a hardness test. I've had quite a few heads go soft from getting too hot. (I believe @sheepers had some Warp-O-Matic sponge M series head rehardened once though? (Because good M series heads are rarer that a hens tooth stuck in a unicorns hoof) 

Dave Rosewarne from CHS once showed me (as he was condemning a head a bought in for testing) that if the circle where the head bolt washers rest is sunk in, that's a warning sign that the metal has lost its hardness. (The washers sink into the metal, which reduces the clamping force of the head bolts)

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17 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

I'd go with the 12A drillport.

The extra holes will give better doort dynamics. 

 

Yes- I agree with Bart on this one. It just makes sooooo much sense to ditch the Austin/Merc engine and fit a beer keg.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm using the Deutsch HD30 bulkhead connectors and found them great.

You can get a cheaper version HD20 which is composite instead of aluminum and they come in various mixtures of pin sizes max being 47.

https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/sec69a2cb9283/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONHDP242447SK

https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/sec69a2cb9283/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONHDP262447PK

Total from msel would be $160incl

But you will need the crimpers for the pins (but might be able to borrow some from someone) and personally I would recommend a mounting plate to stop them spinning.

 

If you want to see an HD30 fitted in person just send me a pm.

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Hyperblade said:

I'm using the Deutsch HD30 bulkhead connectors and found them great.

You can get a cheaper version HD20 which is composite instead of aluminum and they come in various mixtures of pin sizes max being 47.

https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/sec69a2cb9283/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONHDP242447SK

https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/sec69a2cb9283/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONHDP262447PK

Total from msel would be $160incl

But you will need the crimpers for the pins (but might be able to borrow some from someone) and personally I would recommend a mounting plate to stop them spinning.

 

If you want to see an HD30 fitted in person just send me a pm.

 

 

 

That looks like the ticket, cheers!

Had a look at mil-spec ripoff sockets on aliexpress, coming from working with Amphenol mil-spec daily nothing on there looked moderately capable of surviving so something legit is welcome!

Actually keen to have a look, the original loom comes through this boot, not excited about making additional holes in the firewall where possible so if I can get an idea of size/bulk and get it to fit in, thats a bonus!

IMG_1665.jpg.31fd2fc624e67ac69cede2286a8ba9be.jpg

I already have a good selection of crimp tools and plenty more at work, no worries if I need to buy another pair, I convinced myself years ago tools are a totally different budget........

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