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Anyone used poly bushed joints?


flyingbrick

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How hard are the poly bushes? I spent a lot of time finding the right rod ends for my Ute- ordered them using the shops own staff for guidance however I'm positive these bushes are too hard for my application.. very fuckin hard- can hardly push a fingernail in...

Not what I was expecting tbh and I wonder if they are actually nylon rather than poly- their website isn't clear and I feel their staff may be guessing.

 

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http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Forged-Stainless-4-Bar-Rod-End-3-4-16-RH-Thread-Polished,226096.html?OriginalQuery=91008038

 

Got left and right of these. Listed as 4 bar ends.. See in the questions they reply to me and say they are poly...but when I look up the replacement bushes for these they are nylon. Strangely enough they have told me that their nylon and poly bushes are not interchangeable as bore of joint is different.

Anyway.. I have written to them a polite but annoyed email as they made a few errors in my order (like one joint completely the wrong size in the wrong opened packaging)

 

 

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Thanks sentra.

I have had a reply back from speedway motors which basically says they will remedy one issue but not help with the nylon vs poly bush issue. I have provided all proof that their staff provided incorrect information 2 months ago so hopefully they will come to the party.. Its nearly $200 worth of bushed ends and it doesnt look that easy to find poly replacement inserts.. (i havent looked that hard though...but why should i)

 

With that said, @cletus have you seen any issue with nylon bushed ends? It appears to be some sort of special nylon which is made specifically for bushes and i now notice that places like magoos etc sell these same nylon bushes for use on 4 bar setups so they must be okay and i must be overreacting?  Nylon is just not known as being a supple material haha.

Mostly worried that the small amount of articulation my diff has will loosen my lock nuts and pivot at the bar ends.

PS, im not doing a 4 link setup- just using that as an example as very similar.

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Only thing I've seen often is that style of joint coming loose due to articulation as you mentioned. You could run heim joints/rose joints/ whatever you like to call them at one end and a bush at the other which would solve the coming loose issue

Are you making a 4 link for your ute?

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We put poly bushes into my neighbours Singer's front suspension, it was a pretty hard grade compared to the rubber ie not dentable with a fingernail. I did suggest he should probably get rubber as it would be more compliant.

However when it was all back together it just felt tighter, not harsh or bouncy etc...

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13 minutes ago, ThePog said:

We put poly bushes into my neighbours Singer's front suspension, it was a pretty hard grade compared to the rubber ie not dentable with a fingernail. I did suggest he should probably get rubber as it would be more compliant.

However when it was all back together it just felt tighter, not harsh or bouncy etc...

That's the same feedback I've heard from everyone who's fitted Superflex or Superpro brand bushes.

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27 minutes ago, cletus said:

Only thing I've seen often is that style of joint coming loose due to articulation as you mentioned. You could run heim joints/rose joints/ whatever you like to call them at one end and a bush at the other which would solve the coming loose issue

Are you making a 4 link for your ute?

Thanks for the input mate.

Not 4 link but am copying this style of suspension (used on many cars from factory and an aftermarket upgrade on mustangs etc.. easy to setup and good all round setup...plus a bit different which I like.)

Am using my front leaf spring mounts as the side arm mounts, should work well according to the internet 

 

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The front of the torque arm will be designed so that there isn't a spherical being loaded in (what I think is) the wrong direction.

Did consider sphericals but was worried about them wearing out..people make it sound like you have to change them after every drive haha.

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After a ton of reading it actually seems like maybe this newer nylon stuff is actually better in many applications.. its silent for one!

"

The benefit of nylon over urethane is that urethane binds.

The squeaking you hear is binding and releasing. This happens because urethane is a pretty crappy bearing material. It simply isn't designed for it. Nylon is a much better bearing material to improve on it you can then go to spherical bearings, bronze or roller bearings.

Binding in twisting suspension components is obviously a bad thing but a little bit of binding is better than the massive deflection capable in some OEM rubber bushings and with a routine greasing schedule you can reduce the problem so urethane is an upgrade in that sense.

Where urethane excels is in non twisting positions like shock bushings, bump stops, isolation pads or subframe bushings and if you are willing to put up with the harshness motor mounts.

If you are going all out then any twisting bushing (sway bar, control arm bushings and the like) should be nylon, bronze, spherical or some of the other choices."

 

 

 

 

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Good question.

I believe some do BUT I would like to think/ assume that this doesn't as it's supposed to be a special mix just for bushes.

I compared it to some plain nylon at work and it's quite different feeling

Nylon vs poly seems to be a popular topic these days with many people for and against each

Worst case I have some spare joints for my panhard/watts link now :-)

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Poly bush steering joints don't have the self centreing effect original rubber bushes have. I'd use original rubber over poly any day for a weekend cruiser. If you can't get new rubber poly the only alternative unfortunately for most cars.

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