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Fuel tank cleaner/treatment


chris r

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Wow I read 1,000 times that baking soda wouldn't work! Great that it does.

I need to check what gasses are produced when A, aluminium is in the tank (aluminium rivets in a part..I cbf removing them) and when wood is in the tank (an old wooden handle on a component)

It seems to remove any rotten wood and it bubbles like hell but worse is that I got a wiff of some gas that really sorta stung my nostrils. Made me think OOPS am I making something dangerous?

Also I restarted the tank when I got home from work and very strangely absolutely nothing happened. 

My solution had turned extremely clear with all gunk/brown sludge settled on the bottom and it was pulling max amps but there was zero bubbles and zero water movement.

I messed around with it on other bits of steel etc and figured my solution must have been somehow bad...Then randomly it started working again. This was after cleaning parts that were covered in rust and carbon.

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2 hours ago, igor said:

Just chlorine tori? Pretty sure that's what the Jerries used in WW1. Uncle Bill lost all function in one lung in that little lot.

I know the stuff you're talking about and it's not just plain chlorine gas.

That stuff was called mustard gas.

Most straight gasses will give the nose a little kick though.  I got a good wiff of co2 from my mig while setting it up, felt like one of the kids did the old "high speed finger up dads nose when he's not looking" trick.

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Talking about gases, we have a chiller unit with a vat of cider in it at home. When you first make the stuff and it gases up/relief valve releases CO2 into the room you can't walk into the chiller without first airing it out, just about knocks you down/stops you breathing instantly.

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7 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

Yeah I put my head into a vessel that had been filled with (I think) c02. It was like when you get fizzy drink in ya nose kinda..But x100000. Felt like the blood in my nose bad just carbonated hahha

The things you young fellas do to discover a new high

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  • 2 weeks later...

I can confirm the line of sight thing is true, I had the tank "tide mark" side lowest and the anode was above the baffles

I'm a bit over it today and have started the por15 kit hence the bubbles. Fingers crossed it'll work like it should but knowing my luck it probably wont. I'm leaving the everything in for more than the recommended time. I guess I'll find out later

P1040808

 

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So the por 15 stuff works damn good(even if I spilt some) - I think I left it in for nearly 2 hours total and it looks pretty good now.

I have to say I was a bit skeptical at the start with the electrolysis, and had mixed feelings about the por 15 too. I never expected the tank to come up this clean after seeing the shit that came out of it. Dont use the emergency gas caps kids, and if your one leaks chances are water can get in and cause sadness

P1040824P1040822

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I thought I had updated this with some semi finished photos but here is one. It didn't perfectly adhere to the scaly stuff you can see in the above photo. Time will tell how that turns out. 

P1040839

 

Hindsight says I should of found a s/h tank or gone for a new rock auto one and put it in the van (I found one for cheaper than the por15 kit AFTER I purchased the kit) and not bothered with all this mucking around for a potentially still crappy fuel tank. I'm not 100% happy with the result considering the hours that went into it. I think the failure is the person not the product. Where everything is clean and where it spilt/the remnants in the tin it has stuck extremely well and is a really tough coating. 

There is a reason I was given a estimate of 300-400 to clean and seal the tank. Its quite a lot of effort!

I think the por15 kit is more intended for the older less baffled carby tanks rather than this silly shaped injected one.

I have learned heaps with this exercise and would use the por-15 product again but in a less baffled tank

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