NickTheFox Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Hi guys, I'm after some phosphoric acid to treat some rust on my floor pan before I paint it. Does anyone know who sells plain acid and not the typical rust kill mix? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Supercrap do, 250ml I think.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Whats wrong with the typical rust kill mix? Asking based on future rust work and the reason behind you're opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Just Google it- there's specialist chemical places all over nz that sell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=phosphoric+acid+nz&oq=phosphoric+acid+nz&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j0l3j69i60.3965j0j4&client=ms-android-samsung&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Whats wrong with the typical rust kill mix? Asking based on future rust work and the reason behind you're opinion I believe the typical mix is simply watered down in concentration and inflated in price. You should be able to buy the component from a chemical supply store for less than what Ripco or Supercunt will charge. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morkster Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 It's still pricey tho, we bought 35kg of food grade at 85% which was still expensive (can't remember exactly how much). For a small job you're best to just buy Tergo rust killer at mitre 10 mega. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave123456789 Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 careful using it around the seams on your floor. try not to get it into any places where you cant then neutralise it.  I just use the 250ml supercheap crap, I didn't find it too expensive and the bottle lasts ages. you can buy it in bulk from chemical suppliers, have also seen it on trademe in bulk but if you were to buy a 20l bulk container it would last the rest of your life plus the next few generations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Once you use it to soak parts (no hardened steel) then you'll never look back and you'll curse the over inflated shop front prices haha. Especially if you own a rust bucket. Citrus acid is weaker but more cost effective for soaking big parts also (20kg bag for $30-50 and 40kg will make maybe 1000l or more of solution, takes days to convert the rust) As above no multilayer panels should be exposed to acids where you can't get fuck loads of water in to clean it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 chucking in fuckloads of water after sounds counter productive?  keen to learn more also, as in the OS verified version of steps, not the generic Google it & find it yourself version  followed by some fish oil type stuff?  Rust never sleeps :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave123456789 Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 chucking in fuckloads of water after sounds counter productive?  keen to learn more also, as in the OS verified version of steps, not the generic Google it & find it yourself version  followed by some fish oil type stuff?  Rust never sleeps :/  well you cant paint over phosphoric acid so you got to wash it off, get a damp rag to wipe down the panel after its done its job then wipe with another rag with some spirits on it to clean the panel then paint it. I think the comment of splashing water everywhere is when it gets in your seams and you have to get that shit out.  if you panel has too many scabs and is really rusty use mechanical means of removing it first via wire wheel (or even a brush if you cant get your drill or grinder in there) as the acid doesn't eat through half a mm of rust in my experience it only really works the surface so you have to remove as much as possible before hand.  if your panel is really shit just cut it out and put some new steel in there.  step 1: find some rust step 2: mechanically remove as much as you can however you can step 3: brush on some phosphoric acid (or wipe it on with a rag) make sure you wear gloves as it isn't that good on the skin or any cuts you got from removing the rust previously. step 4: drink a beer or two or find other patches of rust to fix. step 5: check your rust patch to see how it looks, apply for acid if needed. step 6: wipe down with a damp rag to get rid of the acid. might take a few wipes to get stuff all nice and clean. step 7: wipe down with spirits to clean the panel. step 8: paint it. step 9: cavity wax etc if needed.  also I like to work out why that shit has rust out. if there is a drain hole make it bigger/actually work. if its getting there from somewhere else that has been compromised your repair will be in vain and rust will come back. automotive seam sealer works great for sealing stuff up.  EDIT: also rust kill when you are ready to paint that area. there is no point rust killing the area only to leave it sitting for 2 weeks/months. rust starts as soon as you stop converting so don't let it take too much hold of your panel before you paint it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 give that man a cookie someone, or a gentle cupping  ace post A++++ would trade again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 The product you want is called Tergophos. I buy it from Target Cleaning Supplies. It's by far the best Phosphoric based product for rust removal. http://www.targetcleaningsupplies.co.nz/html/chemetall.php $54 for 5 liters is great value for money (you then dilute it with water). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Related question, know where I can buy Zinc Phosphate? (Aerosol or paint on) Eastwood and CRC have a product but low and behold, nobody had it. Resene has some mental product which has it in but also has a ruberised component to it or something which sounds weird. Need it supposidly to help cure/seal the rust before powdercoating and its what is recommended to use rather than high zinc primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 http://m.dulux.co.nz/trade/product/dulux%20protective%20coatings/primers/dulux%20luxaprime%20zinc%20phosphate%20-%20pc612 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Catelogues are one thing, sourcing it seems to be another... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Yeah, valid point. The brief search leads me to believe pretending you're in the trade (if you're not) is the best method in finding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Just use phosphoric acid and clean with water then white spirits. Some companies offer zinc and other shit with the acid to coat the metal (metal ready etc) I always get better results with just acid, the guys can clean it with iso or something when they get it, should most likely be blasted anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Doing powdercoating with a friend, yes already blasted, just sceptical that chucking it in acid to eat rust in pits etc is going to give it long term protection under the powdercoat. He's never really powdercoated something that rusts so quick (Usually does brakes and alloy brakets etc), old car steel life 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Prep it like you would paint it, how can it be blasted and have rust pits? this is confusing, drop it in acid and then before coating clean it with steel wool and solvent, then wax and grease with a cloth and coat. As long its clean white steel that has been keyed then coat it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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