estate_ Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Hi all I have recently picked up a 62 Morris Minor, with a knackered engine. In the process of looking at rebuilding the engine I came accross a rebuilt engine that had been sitting around for a couple of years for cheap so went with that option. When I got the engine I lubed the bores through the plugs with oil, pulled the sump to have a look and all seemed great, the seller mentioned the engine had been rebuilt, no expense spared, and balanced(!) by the person he bought the engine off. The crank showed fresh grind marks on the counter weights and the cam still had grey assembly lube on it, the pistons were brand new and the bores showing fresh hone marks. All pointing towards a proper rebuild. I have put this engine in, tidied it up, prelubed it etc, and it runs well, good oil pressure and runs nicely. However it is a a bit smokey and breathing. I wasnt immediately concerned, there is a mixture of white smoke and water, along with slightly blue smoke, so one would assume the rings are still seating, and there is plenty of condensation and maybe old oil in the exhaust etc. The engine has had a good few runs now though, and approx 75km of varied around town driving, changing rpm load etc constantly, and it still seems smokey and throws a bit of oil out of the crankcase breather on the side. What I am interested to hear is what you lot have done for similar engines in terms of running in, how long is too long to be smokey? I am running a 15-40 penrite non friction modified running in oil, which may be a part of it as it is probably a bit thin for this engine but was the only running in oil I found at the time. I am also running fresh 95 octane with a hint of valve master lead substitute. Thoughts? I would imagine I just need to change the oil and give it a bit more of a thrashing and it should hopefully clear up, but am eager to hear your opinions as I don't wish to glaze the bores or anything silly and have to pull it all apart and out new rings in. The engine is a 948cc A series. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 The only way to run in a motor is maximum attack, go for a late night drive some where and use plenty of throttle. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Rewind to before you first lubed the bores, disable the ignition / fuel and crank until it has oil pressure, fire it up, let it warm up then take it for a solid cane. Unfortunately you're past that point so skip straight to the solid cane. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estate_ Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 Shall take it for a good thrash and see where that leaves me. Leave the running in oil for now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Running in normally takes 5-600 miles 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 +1 solid cane.. and/or drive it like you want to.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 That's not true KK, you have about 50 km to bed in the rings before you glaze the bores. And yes keep running in oil in it for the first 200km or so, if you have hooned it properly then it should be run in by then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt4 Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 My experience in running in a new engine is make sure it's warm and then give it a hard time without too many rpms don't let it idle for to long find a big hill and drive it hard but watch temp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 I've always run running in oil for 1000km, usually do the first change at 100km and then continue givingnut the beans from there on in. Yeah most happens in the first stint but nothing wrong with carrying it on to make sure the rings are as bedded as they can be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 The morris minor owners manual says For the first 800 miles oil leaks are to be expected (And forever ever after) Varied driving. Do not strain or allow the engine to lug After 2000miles you may remove the head and decoke the pistons and cylinder chamber. This is a basic job and the average motorist may attempt it himself 75km is nothing, it should blow smoke for the first year of ownership 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 haha, why would it leak oil when brand new but then (theoretically) not afterwards? Apart from "Because British" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 We did a XK120 Jag rebuild awhile back. All new seals throughout. It immediately leaked oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Because British. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Because all the parts were made near enough and expected to lap together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Seals that absorb oil to become the correct size. Thrashed my engine and used boot fulls of engine breaking. Not as had as the mechanic did who rebuilt it though, so it can't be far of a good method. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estate_ Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 Thanks for all the responses. I figured I would have a quick look over the engine and do a compression test pre-thrash so I have a benchmark and can ensure nothing ridiculous is happening. Now the plot thickens. Pulling the rocker cover and plugs shows there is oil everywhere, and far too much of it, the plugs are looking pretty oily and shitty, the area around the plugs too, the rocker cover was fill of oil along the non pushrod side(also worth noting it is parked on a sideways slant keeping oil by the valves - not good!) The bores all seem wet with oil and compressions came back too high - 200psi, must be because they are wet? Maybe worth drying bores and retesting? However what has got me a little confused is the heads between the two engines, google is a little confusing with the valve stem seals or lack thereof that these engines are meant to have? Looking at the head on the rebuilt engine it is running double valve springs, and there is a large portion of valve stem exposed when the valve is closed(maybe 12mm) however looking at the old engine it is single spring, and very little exposed(sub 6mm). Interesting, the twin valve springs are presumably a performance upgrade as my Haynes manual shows single springs only. But the shorter distance I am not sure on, almost seems as if it is missing valve stem seals or something silly. Bit hard to tell what is going on under the twin springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 If it has double valve springs then most likely it won't have valve stem seals, the inner spring takes up the space previously occupied by the vss. What cam is in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estate_ Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 That's the issue, no idea. The person who I bought the engine off bought it off someone else before him who did the work, I have no record of the actual work done, nor does the person who sold it to me. For all I know they could have put higher compression pistons in etc, as the pistons are brand new, but I've only seen them from the sump end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estate_ Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 Seems like it is a bigger problem then perhaps? As the excess oil in the bores is going to prevent the rings bedding in properly if they haven't already, but this excess oil burning surely has a bigger cause than just the rings not bedding in properly? Also hard to know what is done already, as the pistons are looking pretty black and presumably the whole chamber is carbon covered. Should I still be looking at thrashing it to see if it clears up or investigating further before running it again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Post some pics of what you call excessive oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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