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SR2’s 1947 Vauxhall “Rigamortice” Discussion thread.


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41 minutes ago, Kiwibirdman said:

Just saw the latest update, you are getting near terrorising the North Shore in Rigamortice. Excellent work!!

Yes; looking forward very much to no wof, no rego, no seatbelts, no doors, "one wheeler peeler" trips around the block in Milford. 

I've always felt automotive anarchy is much underrated. ;) 

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22 hours ago, sr2 said:

Yes; looking forward very much to no wof, no rego, no seatbelts, no doors, "one wheeler peeler" trips around the block in Milford. 

I've always felt automotive anarchy is much underrated. ;) 

The stuffy people of Chatswood have been given similar delights, brake tests to check that the right end locks up first are very popular. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Kiwibirdman said:

For your seat, Grant at Grants Auto Upholstery, 92 Ellice Road is good and doesn't charge like a wounded bull. He has all sorts of cool stuff in his shop.

Cheers mate, will do.

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"The part arrived in 4 days complete with 2 optional rubber boots. Great bunch of guys to deal with, great value for money, and their level of customer service put the NZ opposition to shame"

This is often so bloody true and it pisses me off no end. Its not hard to be courteous on the phone, show a little interest and at least seem like you're trying. But so many places I ring here are fucking useless at these basics and are probably the first to grumble when they hear of folks buying elsewhere.

Also- keep a customer happy even on the little sales, be polite and you'll get repeat customers and reccomendations.  But this seems to fall on deaf ears too.

 

Your gasket woes. Cant you just pull the old gasket out, clean the surfaces and fit a new one with a split at the top. A tiny dab of sealant on the join and it shouldn't leak?

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3 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

"The part arrived in 4 days complete with 2 optional rubber boots. Great bunch of guys to deal with, great value for money, and their level of customer service put the NZ opposition to shame"

This is often so bloody true and it pisses me off no end. Its not hard to be courteous on the phone, show a little interest and at least seem like you're trying. But so many places I ring here are fucking useless at these basics and are probably the first to grumble when they hear of folks buying elsewhere.

Also- keep a customer happy even on the little sales, be polite and you'll get repeat customers and reccomendations.  But this seems to fall on deaf ears too.

 

Your gasket woes. Cant you just pull the old gasket out, clean the surfaces and fit a new one with a split at the top. A tiny dab of sealant on the join and it shouldn't leak?

Yes I was tempted to replace the gasket in situ but I could only find a full gasket kit, to make a gasket I need the rear housing removed. Motor and trans is now sitting on the floor, I'll update soon.

I couldn't agree with you more in how far being polite and friendly can get a business ahead, just good old fashioned customer service.

 

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2 hours ago, SOHC said:

What about scrape the gasket off and use a bit of silicon? 

Once again, sorely tempted to do the same.

I wasn't confident I could get the surfaces clean enough (i.e. oil everywhere) and I knew I was taking a chance trying to do the job with the box still in the car.

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  • 1 month later...
7 hours ago, sr2 said:

 If anyone from the Oldschool Brains Trust can spot any mistakes or suggest any improvements please let me know.

1213R.thumb.png.98a6c86c5fc9fc9419c53c375ccc3e40.png

 

In order for the fan override switch to be able to force the fan to run, you'd need the thermal switch to be normally open, and the dash/fan light would have to be on whenever the fans were NOT working. I think. I did have some gin a bit earlier.

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51 minutes ago, Thousand Dollar Supercar said:

In order for the fan override switch to be able to force the fan to run, you'd need the thermal switch to be normally open, and the dash/fan light would have to be on whenever the fans were NOT working. I think. I did have some gin a bit earlier.

Revthe fan Switch side looks good/it'll work as drawn

@sr2what do you want the light to do? 

If you want it to indicate when the fan is running then connect it to the 30 terminal of relay/in parallel with the fan itself 

If you wire it as drawn the relay/fan will always be on as it'll earth out through the bulb 

 

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10 hours ago, chris r said:

Revthe fan Switch side looks good/it'll work as drawn

@sr2what do you want the light to do? 

If you want it to indicate when the fan is running then connect it to the 30 terminal of relay/in parallel with the fan itself 

If you wire it as drawn the relay/fan will always be on as it'll earth out through the bulb 

 

The only gotcha with that is if your fan is in front of the radiator it will act as a generator and the bulb will glow at higher speeds. Not a big issue, the light on the dash board of the Holden is fairly bright at 70 mph.

@chris r If the bulb was wired behind the thermo switch and was earthed it should work OK for automatic use, it wouldn't come on when manually activated.

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12 hours ago, Thousand Dollar Supercar said:

In order for the fan override switch to be able to force the fan to run, you'd need the thermal switch to be normally open, and the dash/fan light would have to be on whenever the fans were NOT working. I think. I did have some gin a bit earlier.

LOL, gin always makes me highly intelligent, nearly as much as 101 Wild Turkey.

You're right there's something funny with the fan on light/override switch setup. 

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11 hours ago, chris r said:

Revthe fan Switch side looks good/it'll work as drawn

@sr2what do you want the light to do? 

If you want it to indicate when the fan is running then connect it to the 30 terminal of relay/in parallel with the fan itself 

If you wire it as drawn the relay/fan will always be on as it'll earth out through the bulb 

 

You're on to it mate. The fan light is supposed to be on when the fan is running. I should have it connected to pin 30 on the relay, (I've been going bat shit crazy staring at it all for the last few weeks!).

Revised version below, the bulb will be a LED so there should be no earth issue.

 

Fanlight.thumb.JPG.84cf55fbdf9bd69f70f3a83c6f8de114.JPG

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44 minutes ago, Kiwibirdman said:

The only gotcha with that is if your fan is in front of the radiator it will act as a generator and the bulb will glow at higher speeds. Not a big issue, the light on the dash board of the Holden is fairly bright at 70 mph.

@chris r If the bulb was wired behind the thermo switch and was earthed it should work OK for automatic use, it wouldn't come on when manually activated.

Snap!

I've just had an auto-sparky mate point out the same re the fan acting as a generator, shame I didn't have the room to mount it as a puller. I might do a suck it and see on this one, if it is an issue I'll put a big diode on the fan supply after the feed to the light.

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14 hours ago, igor said:

Pleased to see that your revised wiring diagram retains the original twin horns.

Yes I love the horns, genuine Lucas ("Prince of Darkness") Windtones - they appeal to my passion for totally impractical solutions to problems that never really existed in the first place! 

Only issue is they currently sound like a pair of cats being slowly strangled, I'll have to do some research on how to set up their contact points and then tune them. 

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28 minutes ago, flyingbrick said:

this hurt my head.

 

Could you do this? Would mean its not affected by anything the fan does and the lamp is switched on by the thermo switch or bypass by giving it ground.

 

image.png.3a09ec04484d43e6d7f2434c694e17a8.png

That will work too. 

 

Depends if you want a 'fan is actually on' light or a 'fan switching circuit okay' light 

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