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Escort Misfiring


N3K

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Hey guys,

 

Escort started misfiring and pulling the other night but stopped for a few days until yesterday when in first gear she's just spitting and sputtering and misfiring and has become a bit old heavy paperweight in my driveway.

 

Checked carby, looks clean and seems to be jetting fine.

 

Checked fuel-filter, clean as.

 

Looked over dizzy leads, look fine on ends but need to actually test them.

 

Plugs are brand new.

 

Opened up dizzy and noticed the breaker points seem to be a bit worn out, actually quite worn out so I'll pop those in tonight fingers crossed.

 

 

Has anyone had a similar issue where their engine was almost like it wasn't firing on 1 cylinder? Such a rough idle, sometimes won't even stay on and spitting and sputtering and won't rev at all without hiccuping and dying?

 

Just a quick heads up, thanks guys!

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Thanks.

 

I'll get those replaced tonight if I can.

 

What's involved with a vaccum leak, I've never worked on anything like that before. A bit of a novice but I'm learning.

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Any tubes/pipes that come from the motor. Check along them for splits or cracks and replace as necessary. If the vacuum advance line that leads to the dizzy is holed or ruined the advance won't be working correctly and can cause rough running. Basically though, any air/vacuum lines around the motor. Check them all.

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Check your fuse box dude. Thoroughly. I chased a misfire around for months (weekend car). Until one rainy day i pulled seats out and dash out and sat there following everythiing re crimping and soldering shortening and extending cable, removed imobilisers re installed imobilizers was a 5 hour mish to finally find that the ignition fuse was slightly loose and jiggling around in there. Mother flipper i 2 had tryed leads,points,plugs,coil, wires to coil every flipping thing.

Had to hang my head when i found it was a measly fuse issue when everything under the dash was hnging out and needed putting back together. damn ha ha

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Just got a compression test done, running about 50%. The daily has turned into a big old paperweight!

Hold on a minute

You need to have a few things go right before a compression test can be relied on, and if it's still low it could be as simple as tight tappets. I only tell you these things as perhaps you haven't done a comp test before and I'd hate you to pull the motor for no reason

As the vehicle was running fine a few days ago it's more likely you are doing the test incorrectly or misinterpreting the results. What PSI readings did you get, did you have all of the plugs out, did you have the throttle fully open, did you crank it over four or five times for each cylinder, and is your battery and starter motor good?

If a mechanic did the test for you it's quite possible that he's expecting 150psi in each pot, where 90 - 120 is probably more realistic. If the plugs are not oily then you are having a good day.

I would eliminate (in the following order):

1) Points & Condenser

2) Plug leads

3) Dizzy cap and rotor

4) Vacuum leak (just spray brakeclean around the inlet manifold and associated hoses when the engine is running. If the engine stalls when you are spraying in one spot then there's your leak)

5) Accelerator pump diaphragm

6) Aliens

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Hold on a minute

You need to have a few things go right before a compression test can be relied on, and if it's still low it could be as simple as tight tappets. I only tell you these things as perhaps you haven't done a comp test before and I'd hate you to pull the motor for no reason

As the vehicle was running fine a few days ago it's more likely you are doing the test incorrectly or misinterpreting the results. What PSI readings did you get, did you have all of the plugs out, did you have the throttle fully open, did you crank it over four or five times for each cylinder, and is your battery and starter motor good?

If a mechanic did the test for you it's quite possible that he's expecting 150psi in each pot, where 90 - 120 is probably more realistic. If the plugs are not oily then you are having a good day.

I would eliminate (in the following order):

1) Points & Condenser

2) Plug leads

3) Dizzy cap and rotor

4) Vacuum leak (just spray brakeclean around the inlet manifold and associated hoses when the engine is running. If the engine stalls when you are spraying in one spot then there's your leak)

5) Accelerator pump diaphragm

6) Aliens

And heavy oil down the sparkplug holes after the test, then test again and compare.

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Got some feedback from my dad's mechanic.

 

Broken piston rings. Had absolutely no idea. Car has been running fine for ages!

 

Oh well. Getting fixed, back on the road tomorrow.

 

Crikey!

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