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wastegate actuator upgrade?


ep82-toy-let

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ok,

 

the stock setup.

1 line comes from turbo -  goes to actuator

2nd port on the actuator - this goes to the boost solenoid  via those metal pipes

out of the boost solenoid -  goes to the plastic air intake pipe

 

 

basically that whole setup above is junk if you mess with it.   so flag that whole setup. 

 

run pipe from inlet manifold or intercooler pipe as i said.  directly to the actuator.  block the 2nd port on the actuator if it has one ( i take it you have the adjustable one installed).    you can adjust the arm on the actuator to adjust boost,   shorter = more boost . longer = less

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ah yeh,     try that to start with then.    if that doesn't work i'd switch to the new actuator.  factory ones are known for being weak.

 

the factory actuator definitely has a 2nd port. thats how the hi low works.

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ok,

 

    you can adjust the arm on the actuator to adjust boost,   shorter = more boost . longer = less

 

Technically yes...... :-)

 

I'm not trying to be a pain in the arse on this but given the actuator stroke of probably 8-10mm adding preload really isn't a great way to raise and lower boost, and depending on flow rates and valve flapper size you can very quickly end up not being able to effectively control boost... you could very quickly lose 1/3 or more of effective stroke and end up boost spiking / creeping..

 

Anyway personally i'd avoid any more preload than just enough to firmly seat the flapper.. to be clear I am all for cranking boost levels up - and if your hardware is up to the task even a simple boost bleed tap can work pretty well...

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well, I just braved the pouring rain to have one more stab at it, and nows the time were the "face palm" would suit haha, had it on the rong hose, it wasn't the correct one for the turbo pressure, I was lookimg around and tucked away down the back of the manifold was a small black hose going into a small black box, rubbed the dust off the top of it, and guess what it said? "turbo pressure" lol, so tee'dit into there, havnt gone 4 a boost yet as theres a car in my way but Im hopefull! fingers crossed.

 

there was a black restrictor thing on the pressure line also, I left it on but would it be better to take it out?

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Technically yes...... :-)

 

I'm not trying to be a pain in the arse on this but given the actuator stroke of probably 8-10mm adding preload really isn't a great way to raise and lower boost, and depending on flow rates and valve flapper size you can very quickly end up not being able to effectively control boost... you could very quickly lose 1/3 or more of effective stroke and end up boost spiking / creeping..

 

Anyway personally i'd avoid any more preload than just enough to firmly seat the flapper.. to be clear I am all for cranking boost levels up - and if your hardware is up to the task even a simple boost bleed tap can work pretty well...

 

 

this is true^  but its usually ok  for minor changes.   i usually do the spring trick when raising boost on the cheap,  add a spring from the body of the actuator to the arm.  usually works out the most stable

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that is different though.  would be for closed loop control or gauge readout.  

how you had it boost solenoid would be bleeding air off the map signal. map sensor directly tells the ecu how much manifold pressure /boost engine is seeing and supplies the correct amount of fuel

 

for example  you have:

 

6psi actuator

 

boost solenoid bleeds  off 4psi boost from boost signal line, 

 

once manifold pressure gets to 10psi, actuator sees 6psi  and opens as normal.  map sensor also sees 6psi

 

so actual boost engines seeing is now 10psi.   but you are only getting fuel for  6psi  = lean  air fuel ratio

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Nah fuck that man. You rule for giving it a go- researching and learning. We all started with no knowledge.

You need to find someone who will show you how it works, point out any issues and get it going as good as it can. Surely someone here on OS can oblige?

haha yea, I just don't wanna do something rong and fuck the car lol.

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