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wastegate actuator upgrade?


ep82-toy-let

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By the looks of it, either of those lines should work. Doesn't need to be a massive hose, as there isn't much volume or air actually being shifted, and it has plenty of time to respond... That being said you might notice slight spiking of the boost level before it settles back to the natural pressure your wastegate spring allows.

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By the looks of it, either of those lines should work. Doesn't need to be a massive hose, as there isn't much volume or air actually being shifted, and it has plenty of time to respond... That being said you might notice slight spiking of the boost level before it settles back to the natural pressure your wastegate spring allows.

do you think its pointless to change the actuator to the higher rated one I have then? just re route that hose and I should be back to original boost?

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actually it doesn't really move air in the line, it's only a pressure wave. The line fills up and exerts pressure on a diaphragm in the wastegate actuator. Think of it like a balloon that cannot expand, you don't really have to add 'much' more air to increase the pressure inside quite alot.

 

Ahhh so some air does move then, just not much.

 

So you could almost say that the volume of air being moved around to fill the 'balloon' isn't much.

 

Phew, glad we cleared that up.

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actually it doesn't really move air in the line, it's only a pressure wave. The line fills up and exerts pressure on a diaphragm in the wastegate actuator. Think of it like a balloon that cannot expand, you don't really have to add 'much' more air to increase the pressure inside quite alot. 

 

but yeah; taking the pressure reference from the inlet manifold it generally the go, the pressure reference is used to control the turbo chargers output by increasing (to get more), or decreasing (to get less), the hot gases available to the turbine (hot side), of the turbo. Thereby increasing the shaft power available to the cold side (compressor). 

 

The compressor, usually has a tap / line on it for taking the reference point there. But if you have a front mount Intercooler then you would want to seal that (short vaccum line, bolt in it, clip to seal hose around bolt), and then get the reference at the manifold to ensure your getting a reading which accounts for the drop in pressure caused by all that piping and the intercooler itself. 

 

I hope that explains the basics, you can ignore the 'working harder' argument, it's only an issue after 18 odd psi when you need to start watching temps, and your A/F a bit closer. For 10psi it's so low that stuff is not really an issue. 

cool thanks man. will be looking into all this today. cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

What did you tee it in to? Did you bung up the barb on the compressor housing?

tee'd it into the only vac hose I could see that was going into the intake manifold, there was a second hose but all that hose is doing is going into the tappet cover... ? and yea I plugged up the compressor, just left a small length of hose on it and put a bolt in the end and hose clamped it.

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there is more than one there.    dont  tee it off the map senor. firewall side of manifold. 

 

does the actuator have the 2 ports in it like the factory one?   if so you need to block one.  if you want to retain the factory hi / low boost setup. if it still has it.  best to leave factory vac line setup.  but it generally becomes fairly useless quickly after a few mods.

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you need to see where the line goes you tee'd into.  its been a long long time since ive played with a stock 4efte.  cant remember where that line goes.  

 

 

if you want to make it work, without teeing into stuff.  and be 100% sure its going to work.   get a nipple welded onto your intercooler pipe after the intercooler.  run a hose from there to the actuator.  

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you need to see where the line goes you tee'd into.  its been a long long time since ive played with a stock 4efte.  cant remember where that line goes.  

 

 

if you want to make it work, without teeing into stuff.  and be 100% sure its going to work.   get a nipple welded onto your intercooler pipe after the intercooler.  run a hose from there to the actuator.  

ill go have a look where it goes

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right, just had a look, and I now have a suspicion its rong... the line I tee'd it too goes to my bov, theres a few more lines, two coming out of the boost solenoid, 1 goes to a steel pipe that disappears down itn the engine somewere, 2nd one goes to the intake pipe, I have a feeling I should have tee'd it off the one that goes into the intake pipe?

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