BlownCorona Posted August 20, 2013 Author Share Posted August 20, 2013 the bolts are going in smoothly, but not hard to file them out a bit to make sure, so ill do that aswell, but i dont think its affecting it as for hanmer factory manifold is about 15mm thick, extractors are 10mm i sized the bike carb flange to match the extractors turns out extractors fit the engine but not the car cut up extractors and factory exhuast to make it fit for the new carb manifold now have no exhuast that will work with factory intake no wof no rego 10 days sadface Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Should have bought a Honda. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 When I made the manifold for my Kent, had to replace the flange because After I got it machined it was too thin and didn't have the stiffness to make a good seal, I replaced it with a 1/2" flange and got that machined flat again which got it down to about 10mm, and it has been good for ages now. I don't know what the bolt pattern/number is on this motor but I guess it might not be evenly distributed enough to get a good seal with the flange you have. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 flanges look like that. notice the 2 corners that have 2/10ths fuck all holding them down Lol should have bought that manifold and ran SUs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Giz pics of manifold post machining? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 out of interest not reading everything here, if you port-match the gasket on the head side, and then lay it over the flange, does anything retarded stand out in the mating area? if its ok cut a gasket paper gasket and rub it lightly on both sides with hightemp/fuelsafe rtv, brakekleen & 100grit sand each face so it keys in, unsure what went gooey last time? it definitely works fine on inlet manifolds. untill you have to remove it obviously! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 NaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 one of those ports is the vent for the fuel bowl, the other is the inlet for the air idle mixture bleed screw, both need to be open. i know for a fact that the leak is at the head because i usually can only work on this at night time due to work and no garage, and when it back fires i can see the flame light up the seam between head and manifold. i ive been busy getting my daihatsu ready for hanmer so ill get back into this after im back from there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 NaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 28, 2013 Author Share Posted August 28, 2013 will report back with those details after hanmer. appreciate all the help and input however! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 OKAY BACK INTO THIS BITCH! after yarns were spun at hanmer it was decided that the best, most trouble free option to make sure everything lined up straight. was to cut a new flange, that included the entire gasket profile, so both intake and exhaust, as well as beef up some of the thinner areas. and cut it from 13mm plate to allow for some machining. the runners will then be welded to this larger flange, and the exhaust manifold bolted to this larger flange. another point of note, is that i wont be welding it myself, my gasless mig simply pumps too much heat into it, so im looking for someone to weld it up for me, preferably TIG if possible (i understand this is a colder weld? correct me if im on the wrong track) ill also be altering a few other points in MKII that i didnt like about MKI, hopefully it should be world apart! cheers for everyone's input and help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 hey man hit up simon at sur fab, hell tig it up for ya, pm me if ya need his number Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 ahh yes, surfab should have been my first thought. will grab his number from someone when I need it done! wonder if he would tack one of those laser cut SURFAB logos over the centre runners for extra pine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 im sure he'd be happy to do that, he would probably remember your car too from when robbie owned it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 haha nice, you all must go back a long way then. ive seen his work (and those sweet laser cut logos) on most of the drift cars and its very tidy indeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutiny Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 yeah ive known simon for about 12 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 new flange has been drawn up and sent away to be cut, weve increased the thickness of the flange and added more steel in thinner areas where possible, cant wait to get back into it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 Got my v2.0 flange back and again Ben did a stellar job with the cad drawing. Though the flange arrived with a 3mm bow in it.... Phoned autobend about it and they said it's normal with laser cutting.... The thing will probably bow more with welding and I'm just concerned in general about it. I've gone up in thickness to allow for machining but unsure how much material is going to need to be removed. Can't catch a damn break with this bloody manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Straighten it in a vice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 Yeah will certainly try to straighten it. So autobend wasn't stiffing me and bowing with laser cut is legit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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