d.p.n.s Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 got the engine bay cleaned and painted so now i can start sorting the wring and front brake lines. cleaned and re kitted the master cylinder and bolted it up also checked all the bolts holding and mounting the bosster i have ordered the new front brake pads,swaybar bushes and swaybar links, and also ordered the hydraulic handbrake. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 i got the front brake lines in i ran them inside the car so nice and tidy. also got the loom out of the parts car and pulled all the shit i wont be needing off it just got to find a place to mount it under the dash somwhere. thats all for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 looking good man, almost makes me want to do mine properly. is that the factory booster mounted inside? they run a remote booster? because the lhd thing? cant say ive paid any attention to whats under the bonnet. other than that big bit of metal that doesn't start when it rains, and isn't a 4age 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 looking good man, almost makes me want to do mine properly. is that the factory booster mounted inside? they run a remote booster? because the lhd thing? cant say ive paid any attention to whats under the bonnet. other than that big bit of metal that doesn't start when it rains, and isn't a 4age lol yes its just the factory boster mounted inside so theres room for any motor without having the massive booster in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 trying to find a place to mount the fuse box and the last owner had cut al the mounts of the engine bay and plated over all the holes. i did try mounting it inside but would have been a pain in the arse to do fuses so i ended up unpicking the mount from the parts car and plug welding it on as well as cutting holes for wiring loom.(i did take all the shit i dont need from the loom and ended up taking 1.2 kgs out of the loom haha) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 small update engine bay re painted, got most of the loom in (rear bitch getting it around the cage) i have also got all the front done..ie new brake pads,swaybar bushes,new sway bar links braided lines. and all brake lines for the front re-made and all in. so thats the front all done. time for the rear. got the complete rear subframe out and orderd a set of these in hard for racing. just got to take the old subframe bushes out now. started getting all the rear discs on and brakes cleaned up for the e36 ti rear controll arms thats it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 got the subframe bushes out .just took it to work heated the outside of the steel with the gas plant a few hits with the hammer and they were out with in 5 min. sweet as Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 made a start on the body work,fitted the front screen,test fitted the IS front lip,and riverted the rear panels inplace till i weld them on the weeekend. some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Good work, keep going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snapper Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 inspired work, using those e34 flares. where did you discover the bodylines matched with the e30? brilliant! love to know how much material you remove before welding them on. any progress on your powerplant selection? here's some swedish options: * B234FT or FTX - about 190hp, * B5234T from the 850-T5, 5cyl 225hp 300nM and a TD-04. or B5254T from the S60/V70 I'm sure there's plenty of length in the bay for the 5cyl, and the song it makes is addictive. Not a lot of info on RWD conversions, though the second link has useful info on adapting to volvo 240's and they recommend the Tremec T5 transmission. From what I've seen, you've the skills to do the machining for the adaptor! +1 on 'keep up the good work'. watching this one with interest. EDIT: oh here we go - e30 T5 build thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 the guy i bought it off did the front wings.i think he tryed all the lips of all the modles till one lined up.then he just cut them down till it matched .marked a line and cut the old one out then inserted it. as for power plant yes i have decided.when i get the money together it will be a manual 1uz v8. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Manual 1uz is a terrible idea. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 be better off with a worked pinto. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Manual 1uz is a terrible idea. why do you say that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 In standard form they are great, they will make 220 rwhp all day, but that is all you will get. To get any more requires BIG $$$, the heads are shit, they have cam buckets, the cams are so tame it hurts, not to mention the stock manifiolds. Basically all I'm saying is that there are a lot of options that will be lighter and make the same power. On the plus side, they are pretty strong and dirt cheap. If you are on a mega budget then fine, but otherwise I would look somewhere else, more spent in the begining to get a good motor will mean that you have to spend less to make it go faster later on. 220 hp will get old in an e30 real quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snapper Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 how much does a 1UZ weigh, anyway? I was wondering about the relative merits of that vs a 5cyl turbo volvo donk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 A quick search would suggest that they weigh anywhere between 175-215kg depending on what accessorys are bolted onto them but with no gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakesae101 Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 a 2jz fits in nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 the 1uz is a good base for me to start with and with tranny are aprox 450lbs a complete 2jzgte is aprox 594lbs. the 1uz has nice power to start with and i know ill get bored with it but im not ruling out sc or turbo down the track but ive thought about it for a while now and after driving a mates raod going e30 with 1uz the car handled very well and wasnt as nose heavy as i thought and the power was just so usable and they are very reliable. __________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Look at an LS motor, they weigh the same, and have a lot better power potential, ie 450rwhp with a cam, extractors and a tune. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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