kws Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Touchscreen tablet, but yeah you gotta get one that is a decent size or youll be jabbing at the wrong cells all the time. OLED would be nice though, especially if you could get a nice matte display. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Innovate LC-2 starting times? inb4 Innovate LC-2 is shit, I probably wouldn't buy one again. Mine seems to take up to 10 minutes to warm up and output an AFR some/most mornings. If the engine is hot or has already been run on the day and is still a little warm the AFR will generally come online within 30 seconds of starting. Basically this means that I can't really enable closed loop EGO correction as there is no option in the firmware for disabling EGO when AFR is not outputting and I don't want the engine to lean out during warmup (AFR just sits at 8.1 or so until the LC-2 comes online). Not really a huge issue as the car seems to get close to the AFR target without EGO control but it would be nice to have EGO control to ensure the tune is somewhat stable under untested conditions like snowy mountain passes or traversing through hell. Any suggestions as to what I can do to get it to start faster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 jesus thats a long startup time, my 14point7 is almost instant. Is the heater in the sensor working? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 I'd assume it is working otherwise the LC-2 would start flashing red a number of times to indicate an error (has a number of error codes relating to different failures, including heater failure) Also power cycling the LC-2 does seem to help sometimes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Tbh I'd just bite the bullet and get a Spartan 2. Sometimes problems are just easier solved with money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 In saying that, are you using a 4.2 or 4.9 sensor? If it's a 4.2 throw it in the bin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 There’s something wrong if it takes that long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 4.9 It doesn't do it all the time. / It isn't crucial to the running of the engine so I don't want to throw even more money at it for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 I'm pretty sure in the LC2 there's an option to tell it what voltage or AFR it outputs while the sensor is warming up? So you can just send a signal to the engine to say that it's running at 14.7:1 or whatever while it's in warmup mode. But yeah if its taking that long to warm up I'd say the heater circuit is faulty TBH. As if its taking that long it sounds like its warming from the exhaust temp itself rather than internal heater. What happens if you try power it up without the car running, does it actually heat up? Have you used the serial cable connector thingy to see what it's doing while it's warming up? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Unless you've got a voltage supply or earth issue to the controller, it's either a faulty controller or faulty sensor though. Not really anything you can troubleshoot / fix with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 Is it still under warranty? My innovate Mtxl would start reading within about 10 secs. Was pretty good but I did replace one sensor. They dont like lots of over rich starts and rich running plus they dont have the same control of the heater that those 14point7 items have. I'll go 14point7 next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 It's less than a year old. But I can't imagine there being any easy warranty claim process seeing as I ordered it from diy autotune in the states. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Surely there are some tests you can do to see where a problem might be? Take it out of the car and bench test it with other known good components Or at least you could contact them and ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Well yeah it's a process of eliminatio between the sensor and the controller. And wiring perhaps. But my money is on busted heater in the sensor... I've had it happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 The thing is, quite often it does start within 30 seconds on cold mornings, like the last few days. I've checked over the wiring and there seems to be nothing wrong there. I'll look into adjusting the warmup reading, not sure if I will be able to do it from Linux though. Must be aliens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 yeah normally should only take 30secs. my take on the lc-1/lc-2 is they aren't as bad as people make out, its usually shortcuts in the install that are the issue. like a lot of electronics they are real picky about grounds and esp common grounds between ecu, gauge and controller if you want to see the same numbers everywhere. I have found even then needing to have a voltage offset in the ecu but that is almost certainly to do with my own wiring issues. probably because i've got it running off the same relay power supply as the fuel pumps. the warmup and fault outputs as well as a bunch of other things can be adjusted with logworks - which is one of the other finicky things that I find. you must have the LC1/2 on and reading (i.e. car running or unit powered on) BEFORE plugging the usb/serial into the laptop and opening logworks. for whatever reason it wont find it as an active com port if you have it plugged in to the laptop already and then start the car/power up the unit. if you want to do it without the car running you need to unplug the sensor from the wideband - which is the number 1 pain of all the things using the bosch sensors - that damn plug design is such a pita to unplug. my thumb hurts just thinking about it. The good thing about the lc1/2 is that they are full digital and have great response time which was way better than a lot of the competition for a long time as well and being the best value then too. not sure now with some of the newer options like the 14point7 and Spartan being pretty affordable and imagine things have mostly caught up now with the price of electronics components etc getting so low making processing speeds etc. a non issue. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Replaced my noisy Aeroflow fuel pump with a Walbro today. Holy jesus, there is no noise now and the fuel pressure looks more stable. I wish I just spent the extra up front and got the better pump on day one. This is the pump I am using now: http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gsl393-fuel-pump.html Old pump was one of these (which cost less than this brand new so probably a knock off): https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/fuel-systems-efi-accessories/fuel-pumps/efi/af49-1015 Anyone want to buy the aeroflow pump? Has about 10,000 km on it. $30 would take it. Comes with 3/8 inlet fitting and 5/16 outlet fitting, these alone were like $25. I still haven't gotten around to modifying the tank to have two fuel lines yet so that is on the agenda for somewhere in the future. Also, walbro reckons you need a pre-filter before the pump. At the moment I am only running the in tank strainer, you guys reckon I should run a pre filter or would I just run more risk of cavitation? (I'd assume NZ generally has fairly clean fuel compared to USA and no ethanol so less risk of tank rust) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 I run one of these steel filtered type things before my efi pump, and my tank doesn't have a strainer https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-1592170146.htm?rsqid=b7ca289a8e49496199887c393377b348 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 6 hours ago, ajg193 said: less risk of tank rust You're talking about a 30+ year old gas tank man. All bets are off. I've stuffed a fuel pump from tank rust, and it sucked. haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Yeah nah I get that, there is definitely gonna be rust in it. Walbro reckons it needs a 40-20 micron pre filter, which seem to be quite hard to come by. Any idea how effective the factory filter socks in the tanks are? I definitely want the pump to last as long as possible so when I do get around to re-engineering the tank side of the system I want to do it right. Maybe just a super big filter sock like the one on the walbro page could be a good option? The main thing at the moment is I don't know how restrictive (and effective) the existing filter sock is and whether adding another filter (40-20 micron as specified) in line between the tank and the pump will cause too much restriction and cause cavitation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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