fuel Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 how about having an IAT sensor before the throttle and another in the plenum? I was thinking of doing dual IAT before and after intercooler on a turbo car to see the temperature difference. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Yeah that could be interesting to see, especially in that intercooler example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Id be more interested in measuring pressure drop across an intercooler... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Here's some intercooler science http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/Intercooler%20Efficency%20Test%20.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 So yesterday morning I engaged accel enrichment before heading into town for work. I had it disabled up until now by making the TPSdot threshold 200% so it wouldn't engage. Considering its been running without it since I started into this fuel infection thingee its been pretty good..probably because I have learned to drive around the flatspot and avoided stabbing the throttle. But when other people would jump in and pump the throttle when trying to pull away so causing a lean out stumble right when you dont want it. Anyway- WOW. WOW.. now its so much better. I engaged it without really knowing what I'm looking at so figured that the default settings are probably OK. Someone else said that a while back anyway. Here's the current settings.. So I have dropped the threshold down to 10%. If I stab the throttle at idle it just revs. No lean out stumble unless I just mash it hard out then there is a slight lean. Can be tuned out. More importantly it doesn't activate on slower openings which means its not being activated in general driving. I'll have a play around and make it better hopefully but pretty happy so far. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I'm surprised you put up with it this long, but good work making the car better. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Yeah silly me basically. I just have to say that I avoided setting it up because I was scared of it being tricky or something. One of those stupid small things that I wish I did ages ago..like sorting out the self cancel on my indicators! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 I've had an annoyance for a while where my tacho and speedo are in accurate. As in, if they're accurate at 100kph they arent accurate at 60. I couldnt replace the tacho and speedo functions with a general purpose PWM because it only adjusts PWM (at a static frequency) rather than variable frequency which is how they both work. So asked Link to put that on the to-do list, and they've just sorted it with recent firmware.I've now calibrated them both super accurate at 500rpm intervals and 10 or 20kph intervals.Previously the problem was that once you get to 6000rpm or ~140kph, after that they would both zing right off the clock.Now they sweep through beautifully. Awesome! Will be a lot more useful at trackdays and a lot more interesting to watch for in car video. I've now been thinking that it would be cool to do similar for the factory oil pressure sensor / gauge. Instead of just having a dumb reading from the sensor straight to gauge.I could now have the sensor going into the ECU (more datalogging, yusss) and then output a 3D table to the gauge, so that it shows that "good" oil pressure is the same point on the gauge through the rpm range and also through engine temp. (oil temp would be better, but cbf plumbing in my temp sensor yet)Then from here I can have one my conditions on a warning light to be whenever the gauge goes into the "bad" area of the 3D table.Which is seems especially useful in my case because I'm always banging my sump into the ground. <3 EFI stuff 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share Posted March 20, 2016 My wideband gauge reads richer than what shows up on tunerstudio. But which ones right? Hmmmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 What type? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 There's a guide on 14point7 on how to set up tuner studio so it displayed correctly, I'm sure it'll work the same with invo widebands too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 http://www.14point7.com/blogs/news/16539352-maximizing-accuracy-between-spartan-2-and-megasquirt Might not be able to do this with other widebands actually, but by trial and error you can probably make them read pretty similar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share Posted March 20, 2016 Inovate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Have you double checked that your min and max voltages are correct in MS? As I'm pretty sure the MT-X or whatever it's called, has a different min and max voltage (and AFR?) to the LC2 and similar. So that might be throwing it off a little. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 I.ll check. I just selected my controller from the drop down box but I think it was the lc2 where as mine is indeed an MTX... Hmmmmm. You could be onto something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 I was just checking in on the ms forum and found this thread regarding my query.. http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=134&t=61189 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0R10N Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Probably flogging a dead necrotic horse here, but how garbage are LinkPlus G1s (Version 14s)? Also to drag up a topic from earlier in the month, the OBD2 monitoring on my Mazdaspeed had IAT readings pre- and post-intercooler so I imagine it's pretty standard for modern boosted cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Pretty sure only some of the G1s are laptop tunable?PClink for G1 is tragic, download it before you consider buying one.Whatever money you save on ECU you'll spend on extra fuel trying to tune it.Do not want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0R10N Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Oh I'm well acquainted with the foibles of PCLink G1. Version 3 and onwards G1s are laptop tunable - V5 is the last G1 that isn't a Plus model. Just have a friend looking to go down this path with a turbo Mazda, the other option was Megasquirt so I'm trying to gently push him in that direction instead (even though MS has its own set of foibles). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 linkplus has a few more rows in the map over a v5 and some more features, in/outputs etc.. otherwise same deal at the lem's. pretty old tech now. and your buying 10+ year old electronics also. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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