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Matt's hairdresser spec Mazda of lame.


mjrstar

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Yep, Link needs more Ohms than the old injectors I have, although I probably should have just fored out for some ID1000's to save on additional spaghetti wiring but these are identical to the injectors I run in my evo so I now effectively have some interchangeability if the need arises. kind of similar to the turbo deal, the the spare turbo I have will work on both the mazda and evo.

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Fuck that shit ^^

 

Some of those china injectors lock up at higher pressure, even I'm not that cheap lol - not worth the risk imo

 

 more likely shit in the fuel system, but yeah I would try to test them off the car first maybe. it all depends on the car and the budget cycle and what your concerned about whether you consider it a risk.

 

my guess would be if they can make an injector that works, they are probably making it for someone else which means they probably just make a few more and sell them on the side and threes likely nothing much wrong with them. but I could be wrong. its up to whoever is paying to make that decision.

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Just going off the comparison tests they have on youtube, I haven't actually tried any chinese ones - might be ok for a factory replacement but not sure I'd want to try on a boosted setup. Check these out

 

 

 

Sorry to hi-jack your thread, keep up the good work sir

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Sorry to hi-jack your thread, keep up the good work sir

 

No worries, it's all interesting stuff..

 

Some progress from the weekend..

Coil wiring

 

20140324_065352_zps56f98b02.jpg

 

20140324_065411_zps8e1c8be3.jpg

 

Internal power feed to isolator and new starter cable sorted

 

20140324_065318_zpsdd867512.jpg

 

Finalised the oil filter housing position

 

 

20140324_065429_zps33cb403e.jpg

 

It will be super easy to access the oil filter from the front of the car, the lower 90 deg fitting will be a little bit exposed so may get a bit of shielding  / whatever.

 

We did get sidetracked by a mission to hamiltron PAP to harvest a healthy looking 4g63 cylinder head. But all in all a good day and a built bit of a list of goodies to aquire for the next work session.

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  • 2 weeks later...

We are working on our plumbing in the Rina, and I am apprehensive about having this stuff up front. Would only take a love tap up the backside of someone and you are leaking oil everywhere.

 

Fabrication work looks awesome tho, keep it up.

 

What welder do you have?

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^^ Tig welder - Nope as I have mentioned in a few posts the tig welding is farmed out to a couple of different mates, I just stick to MIG where I can and pre-fab and mark up the other bits...

 

yeah I am mostly converned about approach angles getting it on and off a trailer, there is some structure ahead of the filter location which would take a front on impact first, but short of mounting it high up in the engine bay there isn't really any spare room...

 

 

Some more progress has been made:

  • I got some more oil fittings to nearly finish off the oil filter / cooler plumbing,
  • Built the turbo oil feed line (still need to attack the return which will be even less fun)
  • Got the exhaust manifold head face and turbo face machined flat (had a slight banana from the welding)
  • Roughed out the switch panel for isolator etc.. Will be able to do some more when the boost controller turns up...

 

Then an electrical helper showed up Sunday monring to tackle further wiring stuffs, he sorted the CAS, TPS, injector and fan wiring whilst I messed about with the circuit breaker mounting, and battery and clamp positioning. Also we binned some MORE excess wiring and some the fuel breather pipeline for the charcoal canister.. (Think of the grams saved!!)

The cooling fan flow feels good already and should be improved further with some careful ducting mods.

 

20140406_161457_zps30cf56c7.jpg

 

My mate is also drawing up a cunning (yet simple) plan for the gear lever arrangement so stay tuned on that one-  he knows someone with a Z gearbox in a Nissan sunny which has some useful inspiration.

 

 

Will get some more less shit photos of the rest of the progress some other time.

 

 

Cue unfounded discussions about undersized shithouse battery - this one is a 20AH unit and the 17AH one in my starlet has been faultless even with extended cranking times and months of sitting un-used.

 

And hey for $80 bucks even if they only last 3-4 years they are still well priced.

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FYI you can get 22ah in that size of battery also but generally new the 18 load test at around 22ah anyway oh and we have found they don't last as long laying on their side

 

how long? the one in my starlet is laying on it's side for over 2 years.  is it due to more sediment build up over a larger area compared to standing upright?

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im not too sure tbh never split one apart just my observation generally we only recommend them in an installation for. 3 years depending on brand ive tested some that have been in for 5 or 6 years that still load test at the rated value but they sit on charge 24/7

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Only minor progress this weekend as I spent a good portion at work with a whole lot of shit going wrong...(might be time for a new job)

 

Insulating the mounting straps was "interesting", my wife suggested using a bit of talcum powder to make the heat shrink slide of the steel strap a bit easier which worked a treat.

 

 

20140421_101617_zpscfdee7fe.jpg

Not too sure the power and earth feeds are ideal but will be worth a shot to see how they work.

 

 

20140421_152050_zps5d4bba1e.jpg

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probavly the most tidy battery install I've seen.

that breaker at first glance looks scary. . like you have bolted the positive down through to bracket (looking at pics on ph lol)

 

 

The breaker is criss-crossed, with power in the top right and out the bottom left, the other 2 M6 bolts hold it in place. .

 

We have to make it to winter shut before we can start blaming the outside contractors.. Actually AMS normally do a pretty good job despite the dodgy looking workshop..

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