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M_C's '69 Escort V6 Coupe


M_C

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Most of those questions are answered in various threads by yoeddynz over the last few months. You can also get them in 2 litre if you wanted to stay in that class. From a lantis or possibly a ford probe? There is a grungy 2.5 called a klze that puts out about 200hp from memory, but check them out on wiki for more info.

As far as north south, yoeddynz might even be able to help you out with an adaptor plate like his so you don't need to bother with the tricky engineering.

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Cheers guys. I thought the questions would be on the interweb somewhere, but was feeling lazy.

The plan is to resist temptation for engine development/swaps now car is reliable and running well and focus on getting it complied for racing. Besides I love the sound of the V6 as well as being surprised how well she turns in on street rubber. Although my driving is a work in progress!

Roll cage is high on list. ($$$) Pretty sure I will pull it out and then put new one straight in. Was considering pulling it out and running without one in basic stuff but worried about how much rigidity the car will lose. Particularly with heavy V6 in front and track spanking.

Then there is a bit of a list of stuff to do. Firewalls, fix boot cooling ducts, windscreen wipers etc.

And after that really keen to get her complied for the road for Friday drives. Not much more work needed. Wiring for lights etc.

Thinking of A frame to control diff rather than full monty 4 link and pandard/watts.

Likley put turrets in when doing rear firewall and roll cage.

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  • 2 months later...
Guest Frosty

Been watching your progress with this car for a while and I must say. Top job with the car.

Also been keeping my eye out for an way to help and finally there is.

Your windscreen whipper problem.

The oldish english cars have a push on type wiper arm so there is no nut.

Both sides should look like the drivers side one, the guts have fallen out of the passenger side one.

Real simple to wire. 4 wires.

Earth, power for the self return function, then 2 more power wires controlled by the switch (Fast and Slow).

And as to the rest of the wiring for cert Al is onto it and there is an easy way.

When I did a loom for a mates Capri years back I just went to the pick a part and grabbed a complete loom and master switch from an early Starlet and used that as a base with mods to suit the Capri lights etc. Worked a treat, even a couple of luxuries like a fuel gauge and demister where made to function. One thing I have to say the Japs make a better loom than the English. As far as I know he still has the car now twin turbo toyota UZ powered with supra suspension diff and brakes under it. If you do regular track days you will probably run into him, Jason Sole. Whats more my brother did the cage and most of the fab work for the mods and he still does homoligated roll cages in his spare time. Neil Marshall, as far as I know he still does most of the Taranaki Car Clubs cages and I pretty sure he has done a couple for D1NZ.

Drop me a PM if you want his number.

Good luck and practice makes perfect even if it means a grumpy wife.

If you really want a fast V6 forget the Mazda/Ford route and find an Alfa quadcam one to insert up front, Plenty of 33's floating around with them hiding under the bonnet.

Although there was a 2.3 V6 by Mazda that had a supercharger factory.

I also see you are looking at some rear suspension work.

Ford added a top mounted power bar from the center of the diff forward to about the line of the front spring hangers in the track version of the GTHO's and that worked a treat even with the standard elliptic springs, add a Panhard rod and you have a pretty well located back end with the addition of only two bars. Also do a bit of investigating about the position of the hanger points for the springs, the angle and location can make a big improvement in putting the power down. Moving these points is fairly common in the 60's and 70's Muscle cars used in racing applications..

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  • 1 month later...

Wipers.

Crab a battery, multi meter, the wiper motor and the switch.

 

Start with the switch.

Set the multi meter to ohms, (funny looking upside down u thing)

Set the switch to slow.

Check which two wires are showing a very low resistance and note the colors.

Set the switch to high.

Check which two wires are showing a very low resistance and note the colors.

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Bloodly wireless key board!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

The wire color that is on both fast and slow is the power wire.

Other wire on slow is the slow wire to the wiper motor, same for the fast one.

 

Next Wiper motor.

Grab battery, multi meter and the wiper motor.

 

Again check for earth on the motor with the multi meter on ohms with one probe on a metal section of the wiper motor and the other probe on the wires at the plug. one should be a very low resistance. Most likley Black.

Use that wire as the neg (- or earth) to the battery.

Conect the remaining 3 wires one at a time to the + (positive) on the batery.

One will make the wiper go slow, one fast and the last will make it go for a very short time then stop or it will do nothing.

Slow goes to slow on the switch (pink I think).

Fast goes to fast on the switch (green I think).

The other one is the return function and goes to + switched (power when the ignition is on, white?)

Sorry I took so long, missed the last few posts while in the Naki with the olds.

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Love seeing you drive this thing hard haha Wish my mini could handle that treatment!

Cheers, I figure cars are made for Driving. If it breaks, fix it and go again.

Your mini should handle the jandal. Looks great too with the stance.

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  • 3 weeks later...

That is simply insane! Can you please do a cross section of that "join" or "tennis ball of weld" we like to call it. I can only imagine they didn't get decent heat into the weld so decided more is better?

 

ps, good to meet you in the weekend. The car sounded pretty sweet out there. Looks like the suspension still needs a little bit of fine tuning, but it goes really well. 

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Yeah, suspension needs beating with the low stick alright.

Bit annoyed the car still scrapes on driveway at new house even at crop sprayer rally car height.

Firewall, windscreen wipers and demist are more important mods unfortunately.

 

Good to catch up at such a great day!

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Low is one thing, but while I was watching it on the skin pan it almost seemed to rock front to back, and didn't seem to respond very nicely to the small bumps it was hitting. Just something to work on over time, escorts are far from ideal to begin with suspension wise, and there are well documented ways of improving all aspects of it, so something you can look at when the basics are sorted.

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Low is one thing, but while I was watching it on the skin pan it almost seemed to rock front to back, and didn't seem to respond very nicely to the small bumps it was hitting. Just something to work on over time, escorts are far from ideal to begin with suspension wise, and there are well documented ways of improving all aspects of it, so something you can look at when the basics are sorted.

Oh, that does not sound too good not lliking the bumps on a flat skid pan!

Keen for pointers to improve this!

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