NaN Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 supercharger is still an option, can side mount an m112 or m114, or use a pro-charger. - dunno why everyone assumes a supercharger has to be top mount, they work just as well with some extra plumbing and a side mount. - e.g. remove ac, mount there, do plumbing. sure it's complex but it's actually cheaper and allows for intercooler install with ease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 supercharger is still an option, can side mount an m112 or m114, or use a pro-charger. - dunno why everyone assumes a supercharger has to be top mount, they work just as well with some extra plumbing and a side mount. - e.g. remove ac, mount there, do plumbing. sure it's complex but it's actually cheaper and allows for intercooler install with ease. Ilike where this is heading. What do you think a Charger would cost or would turbo be better. personally I would rather a charger for somthimng like this but not if it was stupid money for little gains. Of corse this would be a later option once the car was complete and I had saved some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 a pro-charger is about 4k second hand (or less) and 6k new. - a m112 or m114 is about 1k-1.5k or less secondhand would be best. the Sc14 Supercharger or SC12 is too small, thats the toyota one. - can use a Eunos 800 supercharger just need to over drive it slightly. and it would be pretty cheap. - turbos are great, but you only need about 8-10psi on a factory 1uzfe to get 400hp/600nm + it would be cheaper to supercharge it. - Turbo or Turbo's get very expensive when you try to do it properly. But, if you wanna do a cheap job, turn the headers forward, make up a pipe to attach a RS legacy t05 on either side. run it to a front mount. Run the factory ECU, and MAF (or it will fail fast), and dont bother with injector changes. Set Boost control to 6-7psi tops (8max) get about 350+ and save up for a link or similar over time. It will be heaps of fun and fairly cheap. - I doubt you w50 would take that kind of power. but it depends on how you treat it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 229807.htm <-- something like this would do it. - remove a/c pump. -Mount on the passengers side to avoid steering dramas, -mod factory header to be log type or get one log type so it clears. -get alloy(6mm) or steel plates(2mm), cut holes to match inlets and weld pipe/shaped 2mm steel -to-pipe) for inlet/outs - run to i/c - leave engine alone, just plumb it up. dont even change the injectors. or the ecu. - make sure engine is running well (plugs/rotor cap/arm, oil, etc) check injector seals for condition (boost leak point) replace if buggered. - run a BOV on inlet pipe after MAF (run the MAF) - that toyota MAF is an amazing piece of kit, a mate once told me he spent several hours reading up about it and it's really interesting how it works. (took his word for it and didnt read the file he sent me) - be nice to motor and dont thrash it or push it too hard, enjoy the power but realize that it's not properly tuned. - when funds permit, or a fair priced link v5 or similar shows up on tardme, grab it and upgrade injectors to 550cc ones then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Very good to know. I'll weigh up which one I want once its finished.If I love the stock power in the 1080kg shell I'll have the option of a full panel and paint, or some sick wheels or a charger. Any thoughts from anyone to help swing me? Semi tidy but very cool wheels Very tidy with the longchamps on it(will be staying factory brown) Or Semi tidy, longchamps and supercharger. Hmmmm. Ive been thinking that if it had wheels and will be as low as I can get with sump safety in mind, I wouldnt care about the paint/small dents. But I am still very much a 14inch fan and so on its anoose with the 14x6.5 +11's I have and a charger would still be an option in my mind. I guess it all comes down to a charger cost. I have my engine/box/clutch/pedal box/log headers already and have about $4500 to finish this beast. I have an engineer mate doing all my mounts and fabrication for free pretty much so if I use the stock ecu and wire it myself I have to sort fuel system, piping cert and misc stuff. Be interesting to see if I have anything left over. Im so close to ripping into this bad boy just gotta wait til I can move my arm.This was a mission to one finger type with my left hand. Cramp!Im out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 703888.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 fuel systems is easy .. - 8mm or 10mm lines from enzed (alloy is easier to work with) / unless you have a metal line with a return line next to it. - if return line is there (and it's metal) replace in tank pump with decent one and your away all done. - if no return line, drill into top / near top of tank and fit speedflow bulkhead fitting to suit 8an- or is it 10an - fitting, (tricky job) for return line. - run lines under car or in cabin (cert rules ?) .. might have to add alloy shield for lines. - if/no return use 044 pump near tank but can be in engine bay (not ideal but it works fine) and get some fuel injection (50psi or more capable) hose from supercheap or similar, probably need 1.5mtrs tops. cut it up and complete system - if you want to be tidy get the tool to add those little humps in the alloy/steel line that keep the hose on better. Otherwise under pressure over time they slide off (apparently, I've never seen it happen without them). - run lines up firewall on passengers side to clear steering and tight space caused by steering and headers in the same place. - terminate lines near as possible to passengers side cam cover. (tidy). or use factory 1uz lines which terminate low by the header on passengers side. - remember to add enough flexability in the lines to allow engine to come free of mounts (if they broke) and roam freely in engine bay, if you are using the factory 1u mounts. (safety) - if your using world cup (escort term) type mounts forget about above, it will never come free like that) - FYI: factory 1u mounts are fluid filled, they are usually dry / leaked out when they come from the wreaker, they cost something like $220 each or more from Toyota (only supplier, I know off), recommend binning them and using another system, anything but those would be better, they have alot of movement in them and they can break into two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 Jealous of the fact you forgot you had a 1jzgte in the shed and that you have to move engines out of the way to get to one you want! I have to move through stacks of rusty panels and broken glass to even work on my car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 having seen whats in his shed I am not suprised he forgot haha If you need a hand with fitting engine let me know, always keen to help on a sweet build. My suggestion is slam, sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet wheels, and charger later on. Do not worry about the panel and paint, as you said to me a few weeks ago, the great thing about an old car is, no matter what condition its in, shiny and painted, or rusty and faded, if its low, with epic wheels, it will blow poeples minds. But yeah, Nigel knows what he's talking about. If you need any real life pointing at car and saying stuff let me know haha Also, I couldnt remeber or not, but did you say you got the factory drive shaft out of the parts car?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 having seen whats in his shed I am not suprised he forgot hahaIf you need a hand with fitting engine let me know, always keen to help on a sweet build. My suggestion is slam, sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet wheels, and charger later on. Do not worry about the panel and paint, as you said to me a few weeks ago, the great thing about an old car is, no matter what condition its in, shiny and painted, or rusty and faded, if its low, with epic wheels, it will blow poeples minds. But yeah, Nigel knows what he's talking about. If you need any real life pointing at car and saying stuff let me know haha Also, I couldnt remeber or not, but did you say you got the factory drive shaft out of the parts car?? Hahaha I really need to list more stuff up.Cant say Im busy now.I have to add though it was more the fact that I forgot it had an auto on it and the bellhousing bolts would fit. No man can forget a 1JZGTE. I love the old pointing and saying stuff role. Got a lot accomplished yesterday. All the stuff I keep thinking for a day are now done of and now its flywheel bolts and spigot. I might dummy the box on today and maybe even lower it in. As long as I can do it one handed. And yes your right I decided last night if there is any money left over(or just keep saving) I will go for some nice wheels. I dont really want to go too over the top but lots of that low stuffs. All depends on this sump clearance as I see Duddleys is the lowest point on his car and has had trouble. I really want to stick with longchamps so If anyone had some 15's of 14's ( I sold 2 bloody sets before I brought this car) in about 8's or 9's let me know. Might need to borrow some 15's off ya Al when I go for a cert so at least its not an issue when I do upgrade. Charger can be once Im completely finished because I know Im going to love this thing in manual even stock. Whos keen to make an exhaust I hear you ask? I guess all we can do is put it out there Allan but a very good question. PS I accept donations Ending of typing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 909709.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 I wanna be on them. Let me rephrase that, I wanna be on them. But I did spot them and they are seriously sick but I think a bit to much for what I want. As in width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 ^Those wheels would be so bang on for this. Do it. They're not getting any cheaper either.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 ^Those wheels would be so bang on for this. Do it. They're not getting any cheaper either.. Yeah not quite the look Im going for just now. Not keen on having to flare the guards but I guess I will have to work out what offsets I do want. Might get the exact size I want then wait for them to come up in Japan if nothing turns up here. I'll need to do some more research on what look I want, just a bit focused on this engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Right guys the big question. Will GX71 suspension fit into my RX30?? Front and rear. Im pretty sure the rears are the same(well looked the same as my old GX71) but any Cressida guys on here that can tell me?? If so Im a happy man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 you should get your current wheels widened with new lips from the guy down in pram / wellington. its like $250ish a rim to what ever width your want. you pretty much have the perfect in board offf set to start with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 you should get your current wheels widened with new lips from the guy down in pram / wellington.its like $250ish a rim to what ever width your want. you pretty much have the perfect in board offf set to start with I will definitely be looking into it mate. Got an engineer mate coming round after work to tell me where to go from here to make it easier for him to make engine mounts. Only 2 things to get sorted and then engine and box will be in Then the fun of wiring. COILOVERS!! Rang BC and they have coilovers for MX71 and I really want to know if anyone knows if these will be a bolt in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Pretty sure if anyone would knows then BC would know?? Should ring and ask them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNathan Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 Pretty sure if anyone would knows then BC would know?? Should ring and ask them. Yeah I rang redline and all he could say is its trial and error. Bit of an expensive trial though at $1500. Might need to make an call to the US. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 i dont think it will work as they have quite a bit more stub axle angle. GX61 stuff should work though. Im assuming they are BC golds with the stub axle included? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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