ms53_wagon Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 hey, do i need to use locktite (or similar) when re-using flywheel bolts...? I have been told yes by some peeps on here, but then the guy at BNT that machined my flywheel said no...? not that he was convincing.... They dont use it from factory (do they?), so what is the purpose...? Is it something to do with re-using the bolts? or just for peace of mind... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Just use new bolts and torque to spec, a dab of locktite can't hurt but isnt really needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Loctite and power bar is your best option unless you have a rattle gun - do them up about 1.5 times tighter than wheelnuts.. edit - yeah Spence and I have conflicting answers - His is the right way to do it. Mine is the rough way if you don't have the right tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Oh yea Ive done it the K-trips method before, on anything I give a shit about I will torque with new bolts, the bolts are real cheap. In reality the old bolts done up rangi spec should be fine but a 4age sees some revs and would be the safe bet to do it correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I'd go with the Spence method. I've seen the damage a flywheel can do to a bellhousing / trans tunnel when they come loose. Not nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Flywheel bolts on my motor come with a loctite type patch of stuff dipped onto on the threads, as OEM. I'd definitely loctite, especially if you arent using a torque wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ms53_wagon Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 cheers. I have a sweet torque wrench, but thought id get away without new bolts. will check into getting new bolts and torque to spec (anyone know the spec of the top of their head?) whats best way to stop engine turning when torquing the flywheel bolts up? crank wheel bolt and power bar? on same topic - whats the best way of un-doing crank wheel bolt without gearbox on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Most toyota TSRM's I have say lightly oil the flywheel bolts (this includes the 4age), some toyotas (like the JZ, possibly beams roman?) the bolt holes go through the crank so they have thread sealant on them from factory otherwise they leak. As said use some if you want, a torque wrench is the proper option Do the bolts up to 75 N.m I think, and yea powerbar jaming the crank bolt will do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I always use Loctite on flywheel bolts. NEVER use washers. You can normally use a large screwdriver through one of the crankcase-gearbox bolt holes to lock the ring gear and stop the motor spinning, but with the race cars (and their 105ftlb flywheel bolts) the best way was to have a couple of guys with welding gloves holding onto the ring gear. It hurts, but is good. I was in the habit of re-using japanese bolts, but less often re-used Ford bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shandangles Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 last time i looked at getting OEM flywheel bolts from toyota they were like 17 huck a pop, i wouldnt call that cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 i wouldnt call that cheap cheaper than new legs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I always use Loctite on flywheel bolts. NEVER use washers. X2. I've even had loctited bolts come undone under extreme conditions. I reccommend chasing the threads with a tap, and cleaning the holes out with brake clean and compressed air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 an old intake/exhaust valve with the stem bent 90 degrees about halfway up makes a great locking tool for wedging in the ring gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ms53_wagon Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 cheaper than new legs FWD = passengers legs? haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Only time I reused flywheel bolts two of them snapped off while torquing. Ford flywheel bolts that is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Yea the toyota bolts are abit better quality than that and most of the time are fine to re-use Last set I got from Toyota was about 2 years ago now, but with a discount came to ~ $50 for the set, $17 each is stupid you would be best to go ARP if the prices have actually gone up that much/get someone to give you a special price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 the bolt holes go through the crank so they have thread sealant on them from factory otherwise they leak. That might explain the small leak i have from this area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ms53_wagon Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 toyota wanted around $10+gst each which is a tad steep. that was through a discount from club-k. I think 12+gst rrp? ive ordered some ARP ones for $50 through www.NZperformance.co.nz. sweet! hopefully they dont take too long to get sent up..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 the bolt holes go through the crank so they have thread sealant on them from factory otherwise they leak. That might explain the small leak i have from this area I would say yes, should have done the rear main while you were there also. $50 for a ARP set is sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I did do the rear main seal which is why i was confused when i saw oil. Didnt know they could leak oil out of the bolt holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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