Vintage Grumble Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 grow some ballz and slam a dizzle in it. If I had the cash, I so would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 i have a 97 LS400 with the VVTi UZ in it. it gets 9L/100 on open road and about 12/13 in the city. good motor, bit "steppy" as the runner length change thing happens and the cams move but plenty of go all the way to red line. for a 2 ton car its got pep. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 ^ Thank you for that info Sir, champion. 95% of the driving in do in the ute is open road, so it looks like the 4L V8 may end up more economical than the 1.6L 4 pot, ha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 With a 2.7 final or some such, cruise 100kmh at 800rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 With a 2.7 final or some such, cruise 100kmh at 800rpm. Well, with 400nm and near on 300hp, it could nearly work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 4th gear burnouts on!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 slam an SAE bellhousing on there (surely someone does them for 1uz shit in the states by now?) and get a 12speed twin stick eaton crash box for it too. ftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 i had one in a navara. open road/on long trips it would do exactly the same mileage per tank as the 2.0 carb thing it replaced. recommend doing a half decent set of headers if you can instead of logs, mine enjoyed rev limiter on a regular basis thusly equipped. have driven a few with factory manifolds they run out of puff at higher rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 ^ Yep, the std manifolds are truly heinous, if I have the room I will try get some nice headers in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 my LS400 had shit milage... real shit. Though, the amount of energy needed to keep your car moving through wind and road/wheel friction only changes slightly due to a (presumably) heavier motor. Petrol usage will not go up for driving a larger capacity motor car at a steady speed if all other variables stay the same. Also; my 1UZ idled at 400rpm quite happily and cruised at a little over 1000rpm all day long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Hilux chassis is pretty much the same from 83 - 04, even the earlier stuff like yours only had different front suspension. Uz fits nicely, you can buy off the shelf aftermarket engine mounts (pretty sure for R engines, might be for Y) from the cartune company in Hamilton (little bit pricey) or make your own pretty easy. Log manifolds are generally used because of having to go past the chassis rails, I don't think there's room for anything decent. I've got a mate who has done quite a few of these conversions, factor about 10k with a computer and manual swap if you can do a lot of the work yourself, although that's non vvti. Should get cheaper if you stick to auto and factory computer although there's still about $1500 in modifying the loom unless you can sort it yourself. It's an awesome swap, looks cool, sounds awesome and goes hard. Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Off the shelf mounts wont work for his Lux as the older 3 mains R series mounts are different to pretty much everything. And yea you'll be looking at logs, Ive seen a UZ go into a mid 80's hilux and even then the logs were tight and needed a bend to fit, shits tight. headers would have to be a epic creation to work, had the body off the chassis to check it out and its super tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Stacks out bonnet? Puhuhuhu. If I have to live with std logs, its not the end of the world, its no racer anyhow. Engine mounts should be easy to make really, was planning on fabricating everything myself. I'm going to run the std auto to save time and money, and my brother in law is a very very good electrician, and has offered to wire it for free. Hes done the two links in my 86, and has done the motec installers course in oz also, so knows his shit. So hopefully it wont cost me anywhere near 10G, I have not worked it out yet, but hope to do it all for $5G'ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 good luck! if you budgt 5K, it'll cost 10 so try budget it for 2.5 to stay under 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 How will it cost 10K? I'm thinking: Complete Motor + box = $1500 ($2200 + $1500 for vvti and link if i went that way) All fab work/materials = Free (I manage a steel store and have access to lathe/mill/welders/benders the lot) All wiring = Free (brother in law will wire, still have shit loads of wire left over from 86) Drive shaft = No idea, maybe $200? Cert = $400? Exhaust = $400? Fuel pump = $200? So thats about $2700, leaving $2300 for sundry items/shit i've forgot? But I guess I would have to change the rear end for an LSD one if I cant get an LSD head for the std one, so that would add on $1500 If I went for the vvti motor, and had to get a link, then it would be atleast 7K, so I doubt I will be doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Get fred to hook you up with freeEMS for 1UZ or just megasquirt it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Yea add a decent radiator and a bunch of other shit Plus Id chuck a shit load of bits at the motor ie cambelt, waterpump, plugs, oil+filter, front and rear main would be nice maybe cam and rocker seals. Its a must to do the filter on the gearbox may aswell do front and rear seals on that too and $150 of nice new toyota fluid Adds up quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Yeh, true dat, forgot about radiator. And it would make a lot of sense to give the motor a birthday before install, should then give years of trouble free burnouts. But yeh, even with those added extras, it should still come in around $5G all up. Hope I can find a LSD head to fit my diff, not even sure what code it is? Best go have a nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 If you can do a conversion and stay on budget, then you are the only person i know that can/has done it and i will buy you a beer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 G code diff His conversion is pretty straight forward, if he blows over 5-6k something has gone terribly wrong. Plenty of people come in on budget neddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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