vivaspeed Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Hi all, A quick engineering advice question - how the hell do I get this out... I have got this worked 4AGE that was run on carbs and had a 4K dizzy in it. Previous owner/builder put this steel bushing in the dizzy hole to take the 4K dizzy. Now I'm going back to injection I want it out to fit my dizzy back in. Of course I didn't realise this was there until just as I was swapping over everything from my old engine to this one. It's tight as hell, and I can't get anything in behind it to drive it out. Tried the basics to pull it out but it's not going anywhere in a hurry. There is a slight lip that can be accessed behind it. Engine is fully assembled / head with cams in it so I'm reluctant to do much that may involve disassembly or drilling and creating too much swarf. I could probably remove the exhaust cam and get behind it, but really don't want to. I'm thinking - 1. Internal bearing puller with a slide hammer (which I don't have) 2. Weld someting threaded on it and wind it out but it's an alloy head, not sure about heating and distortion etc. I think a bearing puller would do the trick, but I don't own one, and good kits cost many hundreds of dollars. Diameter might be a bit big for a puller though. Any ideas welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 That's a tricky one! You'd assume it would be press fit in that situation... So hopefully it will pop out with a small bit of heat and the correct puller. If it was me then a slide hammer would come out with a custom made piece on the end to pop it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 carefully place something to stop shit getting in the motor through the rear of the hole. something metal. then run a couple of welds around the inside of the bore of the insert. wait a bit for it to cool and it will (works 90%) slide out by hand. (assuming its only pressed in) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drftnmaz Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 i'd weld abit of steel to it, then pull that out... like make a slide hammer Uploaded with ImageShack.us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 I made a pretty decent axle puller/slide hammer type arrangement out of a long bolt and a piece of 2'' diameter galv pipe, worked a treat for pulling the output shaft out of the transfer case on my evo...me so maybe you could look something similar mixed with Todd's awesome drawing... In case you have no imagination of what the piece of 2'' pipe looks like... note output shaft attached hanging off the far end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jif Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 You could try weld a piece of chain on to it then attach said chain to something heavy as I would probable be easer than making your own slide hammer. I have seen this technique used with the chain attached to half shafts when a slide hammer is to sissy for the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 carefully place something to stop shit getting in the motor through the rear of the hole. something metal.then run a couple of welds around the inside of the bore of the insert. wait a bit for it to cool and it will (works 90%) slide out by hand. (assuming its only pressed in) do this^ if have tig, try just running it around without any filler rod. should shrink it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldturkey Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 alternatively, I saw this and it reminded me of a spigot bush. A spigot bush puller would be the correct tool: but I did a quick search and this looks like a pretty good idea and with no heat: http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Spigot_bearing_removal#Dynabolt_Method (obviously the grease method at the top of the page is no good) edit: actually looking at your picture, you may not be able to find a dynabolt with a large enough diameter, but I think its a pretty cool idea anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2JZKP Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 definately try runnind weld/tig with no filler rod on inside like above man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 That dynabolt idea is genius.... Could have used that a couple of months ago in exactly that situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 dont use a chain you ruff cunts. deff not in this situation. you want to shrink it. if not there is a high chance the alloy bore will be dammaged on the removal of the insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted May 16, 2011 Author Share Posted May 16, 2011 Awesome, thanks guys. Might start with the shrink weld, hadn't thought about that. A few good options there, might leave the rough stuff till last Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 Thanks for the tips everyone, it is now out. Shagged about with a couple of ideas and in the end I welded a piece of flat, with some threaded rod welded on, into the bushing and a bracket on the outside and wound it out. Needed a bit of heat though to make it move... Very tight so not sure how they got it in originally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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