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Torsion Bars


BlownCorona

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So i have just found out about a part called the Torsion Bar in the suspension and apparently they are height adjustable. From what i can tell its used in suspension designs that have two wishbones. My corona (rt84 1971) has this style in the front but i cannot locate a torsion bar ive looked all over the internet but cannot find all that much information on this subject.

My question.

Do i have a torsion bar and if i do where on earth does it hide?

Thanks

p.s. i did a search on OS but if i missed a thread where this has been answered could you please link me?

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^ +1

I have no idea what the suspension setup is like on your car, but if you have double wishbone and torsion bar, the torsion bar will most likely run parallel to your chassis rails and the adjuster will be at the end of the torsion bar.

8852XG13.gif

Have a look under the guards around your front wheels and see if you can see any coil springs something a little like this

coil-spring.gif

If theres no springs there you may just have torsion bars.

Take a picture.

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if your really keen you can get dropped spindles but i think there is a little bit involved in that

certs etc.

the main issue with putting really low springs on double wishbone setups with the bottom arm starts to point up from the chassis to the hub and handling geomettry goes out the window bumpsteer etc. can become rampant. but it will depend on the angle of the arm to start with and the specific design as to how low before it gets bad/maybe the handling was crap to start with anyway so it won't make much difference.

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that British setup looks scary haha

and yup its got 2" lowering blocks in the rear, and its lowered about 2.5" in the front as well with shorter springs i think (guy before me did it) its all captive and handles really nicely, but i want to lower the rear by about 2.5-3" more and the front by about about 0.5". i was looking at how the front suspension is set up and i noticed how the strut is bolted to the lower wishbone.

is there any reason why a getting a couple nice strong longer bolts and putting .5" worth of washers between the struts bracket and the wishbone should not be done?

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yes, because its retarded.

lower your car like everyone else, shorter springs and shocks and reset leaves and blocks for the rear

EDIT:

Also, that will do nothing. it will just push the lower wish bone closer to the ground, it might help correct the LCA angles, but wont lower the car

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Its got shorter springs, and i plan on reseting the leaves in the back, All i wanted to do was lower the front slightly more, the strut bolts UNDER the wishbone so it will definatly lower the car.

i don't really care if it seems 'retarded' to you, aslong as its safe. since if you think about it. its essentialy the same as lowering blocks in the rear. it just re positions the wheel in relation to the spring.

Now that was a serious question. is it a safety hazard? i cant take pics if needed

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Its got shorter springs, and i plan on reseting the leaves in the back, All i wanted to do was lower the front slightly more, the strut bolts UNDER the wishbone so it will definatly lower the car.

i don't really care if it seems 'retarded' to you, aslong as its safe. since if you think about it. its essentialy the same as lowering blocks in the rear. it just re positions the wheel in relation to the spring.

Now that was a serious question. is it a safety hazard? i cant take pics if needed

measure front springs with car jacked up, remove springs and cut a bit off them as long as you dont make them shorter than when you had the car jacked if you understand? shouldnt have to cut much if you only want half an inch

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id feel way more comfortable cutting half a coil out of the springs, if the shocks have been shortened already then they should still be captive.

(guessing here as i dont know how they bolt up exactly)adding washers will (without trying to be all brocklee and using engineering terms) increase the leverage the strut has on the bolt making it more likely to snap

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id feel way more comfortable cutting half a coil out of the springs, if the shocks have been shortened already then they should still be captive.

(guessing here as i dont know how they bolt up exactly)adding washers will (without trying to be all brocklee and using engineering terms) increase the leverage the strut has on the bolt making it more likely to snap

Acualy thats quite a good point, yes i imagine that it would dramatically increase the stress on the bolt that way, i guess il just trim the spring a little. its got kyb shocks. im not sure if they are shorter or not but il get the measuring tape out.

Another idea i have had. is ive got the factory rear springs from my sw20 mr2. they look to be the same diameter but should be way stiffer. might look at trimming those to the height i want so it will be stiffer and less likely to guard rub.

btw. mr2s spring style is swapped around due to MR config (skinny spring at back, fat at front)

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