HighLUX Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Fuel pump setup is damm sweet. Whats it out of? Im keen to find something like that @ PAP to run a 2L 6 cyl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Grabbed it out of a Mercedes. Im no good with euros so I have no idea what model it was. The pump is a Bosch one, as you'd expect being German. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
be4ver Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 that AFM/airfilter thing you've done there is dam cool! i hate those stupid big ass afms. lol was wondering why you had such a crazy huge air filter in that last post, now i know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 just be aware, those fuel pumps can start leaking around where the plastic cap is pressed in the end, should be ok, jut try not to knock it round to much Also I feel your pain about the wiring. I am just starting to do the same on my 2jz crown. fucken brain racking cool car man, engine looks so sweet in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnz.NZ Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hey man your engines looking very nice.what did you do to throttle body/thermostat housing to get it looking so good? Also i like what youve done with the rear water outlet.what metal did you use to make it? And what size pipe is it? Need to do mine like this way tidier than the way ive done it.i remember seeing this cruising down the auckland motorway i took a photo of it was late last year sometime. was looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I remember seeing this cruising down the auckland motorway i took a photo of it was late last year sometime. was looking good Haha, now its looking like shit! I sandblastered the throttle body and thermostat housing and then painted them. Satin Silver I think... I just used steel pipe. Staino would have been sweet but didnt have any. Ill find out the size but I think its 32mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HighLUX Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Sweet conversion progress, bet it will go well with DOHC fool injection powah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Damien! Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Cheers man. Yeah, im hoping for a bit of a power increase with some reliability. Not that the old engine was unreliable, it was actually the opposite but never ran that great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bigfoot Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 do you feel like making another 1 of those thermostat things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest be4ver Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 or two lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Damien! Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Could do but its MUCH MUCH easier with the engine on a stand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Poo Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Nice work. Should do a healthy skid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest fuel Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Are you able to swap the locations of the fuel inlet and the FPR on the fuel rail? I thought they had the same flange either end - so reroute your fuel feed to the front of the fuel rail if it will squeeze in between the head and the throttle body, and then just put the FPR on the other end of the rail. I'm dubious of that flexible hose running from the hard fuel rail to the FPR, I would guess that in that 30-40cm of rubber fuel hose the pressure could fluctuate and the FPR may not keep up with regulating it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Damien! Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Shit, that is a good call regarding the hose from the rail to the FPR. Will see if I can swap the ends around. Thanks Phil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DJZ Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 I've run cars with (long) lengths of hose between the FPR and fuel rail with no problems, if anything it'd probably help in your case Damien as you don't have a dampner in the system to remove the pulses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poo Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 What time did you get at Meremere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 An embarrasing 17.004sec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 i have been through the drama of leaky widened wheels after blasting and painting. thought tubes would fix it, nearly stopped me getting to nats last year. the easy fix was to find the pinhole with soapy water, whip the tyre off, there will probably be a divot/bit of welding porosity on the inside. i got a little drill bit and cleaned it out back to bare steel, then put some epoxy quick metal type stuff in the hole, bingo, no more leaks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Run a big smear of the same silicon/gasket maker stz you use on 3pc rims around the weld and hope for the best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 i have been through the drama of leaky widened wheels after blasting and painting. thought tubes would fix it, nearly stopped me getting to nats last year. the easy fix was to find the pinhole with soapy water, whip the tyre off, there will probably be a divot/bit of welding porosity on the inside. i got a little drill bit and cleaned it out back to bare steel, then put some epoxy quick metal type stuff in the hole, bingo, no more leaks Did the tube idea not work? Run a big smear of the same silicon/gasket maker stz you use on 3pc rims around the weld and hope for the best? Not a bad idea. Ill get the wheel stripped and see if the leak is obvious. If not might smear something like bead sealer over the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.