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Buying a tig welder


My name is Russell

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Looking for a tig welder.

I don't know much/anything about them so after some quick advice on what i should be getting.

I want to teach myself how to use one, are the ones around the $500 price range any good?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 231771.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 477169.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 333131.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 333131.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 885111.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 895189.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 320735.htm

I would like to be able to weld alloy S/S and steel, can this be done with all/any of the above?

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If you want to weld alloy you need AC tig capability - all of those inverters look to be DC only.

I'd strongly recommend not buying a new chinese machine from Trademe, unless the seller can supply parts and warranty. You might end up spending on a tig only for a circuit board to blow in 6 months, leaving you up shit creek.

Most AC/DC tig units start around the $2g mark for a decent one. That gets you everything you need to get started apart from Argon - they normally come with an arc handpiece as well. Also for Aluminium you'll want around 200A IMO, so that you can do thicker stuff like pleniums and big alloy brackets.

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i haven't read the specs on all the ones you are looking at but i would guess that they would be all pretty much the same.

in this instance the old adage "you get what you pay for" will never be truer.

i paid 1200 for my DC only tig, it is able to weld extremely thin section with some control. this seems to be the test of a semi decent tig welder, how thin you can weld properly.

my other tig is both AC and DC (see how i cunningly avoided writing AC/DC, the worst band in the history of the world) i paid 2700 for it and it has a foot controller and a pentameter on the foot pedal (means i can adjust how much influence the foot pedal has on the overall increase/decrease of the set amperage) and it is an excellent machine. but it struggles with really thin material, like less than 1mm. when your trying to repair rusty cars and your only option is to weld the new bit to something that was rusty and because of this a bit thinner, my DC only welder is way better for this.

i think what im tying to say is spend a bit more and get something that will be a joy to use and learn with rather than a pain in the arse that has you hating tig for the rest of your life.

sheepers.

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one very important thing i forgot to mention.

AC welders emit heaps of HF EMF. any electrical device you place close to them will die.

also, variable down slope can make life easy if your welding thin or if your trying to finish up to and edge without it melting away, in both steel and alloy.

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+1 for PMT Motorsport (sole trader of Mitech units in NZ) - knows what he's talking about. I bought the 200A 4-in-1 unit (AC/DC TIG, stick & plasma), foot control and helmet as a bundle. I can MIG okay, but like learning new skills. You'll also need to budget for tungstens, gloves (must be lightweight and clean, not oily), filler rod and building a neat little cart for your gas bottle and welder.

Now here's the best bit of advice I can give: Do a welding course. Weltec do a MIG/TIG evening class, which I did a couple of years ago and teaches you MIG & TIG (obviously) but also gas cutting, gas welding, bronze welding, stick and more. It's about $330 for 12 weeks, one night a week, but worth every penny and more. Although it also caters for people who need to maintain their ticket, the tutors are great guys who can help with whatever discipline you want to specialise in. For example, the first time I did it, I practiced a lot on migging thin gauge steel (for bodywork). I've enrolled again as I need help to get the best from my new TIG unit, so I'll be seeing how schwing I can get with neat, tight 'stack o' dimes' welds on steel and aluminium.

Other good resources are The TIG forum of mig-welding.co.uk, WeldingWeb.com and WeldingTipsandTricks.com.

If you want to see some really hot welds, check out this thread on WeldingWeb.com. This is a guy building a cage for a 4x4 polaris, and it is unreal. The welds are so tight and neat, and they're migged, not tigged. In fact there's a thread on WeldingWeb.com about 'MIG like TIG', although almost everyone agrees it's more for aesthetics rather than any structural reason. Anyway, something to aspire to. Sample below:

IMG_1779jpg.jpg

I will let you know how I get on with my welder at the course - hope to have some nice samples of welds for the mantlepiece ;)

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Best bit of advice from Gaz 101:

Go talk to Bdawg fullstop. :mrgreen:

Actually don't even talk to him, just go steal his little Tig inverter welder, get argon next time we get gas and try it. That way you will know if its what ya really want or if its a waste of time. It is about $600 trade price welder, dont think iotll do alloy tho. Or something, I dunno, talk to Bdawg he knows this shit. Seems like alot of money to spend for someone who is wanting to go overseas very shortly and is saving for this :lol:

Gaz

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^^^ True, but (a) spool guns are very expensive, and (B) migging aluminium is tricky, as once you pull the trigger, you're committed to the weld at the settings you've chosen etc. The guy on MIG Welding.co.uk mentions this in regard to migging aluminium:

Aluminium TIG Welding - The Easier Way to Weld Aluminium

Since writing this page I've decided that using a MIG welder for aluminium is a pain. Though this page should help the DIY MIG welder who doesn't fancy spending money on a TIG. That's where I was when I wrote the page but I caved in.

The photo shows my first attempt at TIG welding aluminium. I've found it much easier than MIG welding aluminium, or even TIG welding any other metal. The TIG welder needs to have the option of AC current rather than just DC which prices it towards the £1000 mark. It doesn't require a heatsink, and a model without a foot pedal will work fine though it's nice to have the option to add one later (I didn't use a foot pedal for the work in the photo).

Industrial fabricators use MIG for aluminium purely for speed, where time is money. For home/hobby use, it has to be TIG. Even then you need to back purge and take the heat treatment required into account if it's a stressed item. A 200A+ MIG with spool gun will be more than a decent AC/DC TIG, and the skillset to use it correctly requires training.

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if u have access to 3 phase get a sub 1000$ 1970s miller dial arc acdc/hf/foot pedal/watercooled torch

i dont know how true this is but aparasntly normally house power stz is every 4th house is on the same phas sro so if u run extension lead from eaither side of your neighrboes and use the phase from each 1 u have 3 phase then u can rock a sweet pov machine???

ask a crooked electricisan

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