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SHGWAG's FD3S


SHGWAG

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Did the same people build it as tuned it? If so I hope they haven't stifled the motor to cover for their lack of confidence in their own build?

Don't mean to scaremonger btw, just speculating without all the info lol

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Timing is a much bigger factor in terms of engine damage that fuel Steve, unless like in Mikes Case where you have too much of it then bad things also happen hahaha

 

I can understand that in terms of pushing timing too far, but if its set so far/"safe" from what is conservatively correct - I don't understand why?

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Also what do you mean, you don't have the hardware? surely it is like a $10 cable and a laptop?

 

Went to give it a road tune ourselves on the weekend, turns out you need specific Microtec Adaptor thingy to do this.

I could buy one, but with a tune on the near horizon, it's not worth it.

 

Did the same people build it as tuned it? If so I hope they haven't stifled the motor to cover for their lack of confidence in their own build?

Don't mean to scaremonger btw, just speculating without all the info lol

Separate Parties

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I can understand that in terms of pushing timing too far, but if its set so far/"safe" from what is conservatively correct - I don't understand why?

I too Steve, an unaware of what damage retarded timing can have.

(4 Degrees off factory specs)

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All of the power/ safety is in the ign table, so if you want it to be safe then pull timing, it will also make no power/ heat up the exhaust.

 

Oh sweet as I thought you had a link for some reason.

 

Have you researched how much timing Bridgy turbos usually take? I would assume it would be less that stock...

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You are just talking about base timing right Mike? who knows what the map is actually doing?

 

Anyway not meaning to scaremonger just stop trundling around in it like its all gravy and get it tuned.

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Getting a bit OT sorry Mike, but wouldn't the best way to set it up be, if they set timing to what is known to be about right (maybe pull a couple of degrees off) and run fuel slightly on the rich side, so it didnt lean out on boost and det.

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The best way to set it up would be to get the AFRs right and then tune the ign map for best torque at all rpm. That is the only reason to use a dyno FYI, you can get the afrs mint on the street but you miss out on power because you don't know when you are making peak torque at an rpm in regards to ign timing.

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I'll have to look further into the timing, not sure what the timing map is doing, the info is just what I was given by the Tuner.

 

Brent: I'm planning on using the Green Brothers (incidentally they're old family friends & I only put 2 & 2 together recently).

I'll be contacting them tomorrow once I have cash in hand from selling the Levin.

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I'll have to look further into the timing, not sure what the timing map is doing, the info is just what I was given by the Tuner.

 

Brent: I'm planning on using the Green Brothers (incidentally they're old family friends & I only put 2 & 2 together recently).

I'll be contacting them tomorrow once I have cash in hand from selling the Levin.

 

Cant go wrong with GBR , Is there still a 3 month waiting list for there workshop?

 

They will recommend Dynopower , id ask brent to do if they do (he tends to push it abit harder)

 

 

EDIT: Also if i could get it to open there is a good write up on the Racing Beat website on Rotaries and Timing, includes timing for different ports. 

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Green bros wont tune it unless they are happy with how its built/you meat all the criteria they set out after checking out the car, but I assume you know this?

 

Crazy mechanic that comes into work, has a 700hp s1, and they laid down the rules as to what he had to do, before they would touch it, to keep their rep intact I guess. mind you, it may have just been because he was going for 700+hp?

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