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SHGWAG's FD3S


SHGWAG

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Righto, Diff mount bushes time.

Managed to get the diff mount out without taking out the whole rear subframe, or even the diff itself, contrary to all my e-nets research.

It was an absolute cunt and wouldn't want to do it again.

So on Tuesday I'll get the old bushes pressed out, and the new ones pressed in.

Also finally got around to securing my battery & battery box properly.

Actually took pictures, but image shack is being a cock.

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So the diff mount is back in.

The car is finally ready for a cert bar wheel alignment & raising the suspension slightly.

This is because the new camber cert rules require a wheel alignment withing 14 days prior to the cert taking place.

So all I need now is money - my yearly pay review & bonus is now over due - so hopefully that will come sooner rather than later & I can finally get this thing legal.

All it needs after that is a re-tune, I'll be aiming for 300kw atw on 20psi or less.

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  • 2 months later...

I've been slack.

Been too busy and this thing was pushed to the side for the last couple of months.

Raised the rear & slapped some paint on where it was rubbing, it no longer rubs, so that's all sorted.

The front rubs ever so slightly at full lock when you pull into driveways, so I went to jack that up and have found an issue.

The front tyres have started chewing through insulation on the wiring loom.

Usually the inner guards stop this from happening, but they were removed a long time ago.

So I now need to re route the wiring to the headlights etc. on both sides of the car.

Moar work, but alteast I spotted this now before some real damage was done.

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Smashed up the front end / had a mate 'pump' my front arches with a hammer & dolly last night.

Came up ok, lost a bit of paint, and is a little rippled, but otherwise - NO MORE RUB!!!!!!

I also bodgyed up the headlight wiring so it doesn't rub on the tyres, however this method (masking tape) won't pass a cert so I need to figure out just how exactly to secure the wiring in it's current position. This means I won't need to rewire it. Whoop.

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  • 6 months later...
Guest SHGWAG

Oh LOLs, long time, no update.

So, earlier this month I went through and tidied everything up, and lifted the rear 20mm for cert.

It went in two weeks ago. I thought it would fail on 2 things:

Driveshaft loop and exhaust noise.

So I got word last week that it the loop was needed, and that the exhaust was a quiet 110db... at idle.

It also needed the front brake hoses secured, as the adjustables don't have clips for them.

Also the radiator mounts needed upgrading.

It also needed a few minor things which aren't worth mentioning.

So whilst pulling the car apart, they found that the Power Plant Frame was cracked 3/4s of the way through.

For those of you that are unfamiliar with PPF's, it's the main brace between the engine and gearbox.

LOLs.

So that's been welded back up, in the future I'll have to get it strengthened.

Driveshaft loop and radiator mounts have been done.

All that's left is getting the brake lines secure, which should be done today.

So now all it needs is the exhaust quietened down.

I'm currently investigating options for the exhaust, the best looks to be an Adrenaline R muffler and resonator - this is kind of a bitch because the muffler I have on there is a Maz Tech which cost me a pretty penny when I got the new exhaust made.

Once this is sorted, it just needs the cert plate fixed onto it, and then WOF!

I found all of the receipts I have for this thing the other day, I quickly became very depressed.

However,

It's now had 1,000kms put on it, so once I get some more $$$ I'll be off for a full decent tune on this thing.

It made 251kw atw when it was first dyno'd at18psi.

I should be able to get another 40kw atw just by sorting out the timing.

I've also yet to set up the boost controller properly, I've been running it in sans boost controller at 12psi.

My goal for this is 300kw atw on 18psi.

It should be achieveable on the current set up without overstressing any of the parts.

*Pictureless update*

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Guest k-trips

500HP!!! WOAH, THATS LIKE 900HP!!!!!

I can see through your maths - what you really mean is 413.3kW at the spare tyre?
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Guest SHGWAG

It's appearance hasn't changed that much, other than being 20mm higher than it was.

I believe keegan may have pics of the broken PPF, so if you read this: Post them up Keegan!!

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Guest flyingbrick

Probably feels the same on the road.

Anything more than 200kw is un necessary on NZ's Roads.

Garbage.

I took an f430 (hope i got that right) scudera for a thrash. It proved that heaps of power is entirely necessary. Every day all the time.

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Guest flyingbrick

500hp and 1350kg

All I'm saying is- don't be silly :-)

If you start feeling like you have too much power fit better/ wider tires, haha.

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Guest Dell'orto

But an F430 is a big car, what do they weigh? 1400 - 1500kg?

FD is around 1100kg, so it's no heavy weight.

More like 1200. Agree on 200kw being enough though, its rare you even get a chance to give it WOT unless you're on a back road somewhere.

300kw will be a snap, mates one made that with 15psi with a 35/40 and a mild extend port

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