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Richy's 2001 Honda Torneo Euro R (CL1)


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Ok the valve clearances have been redone, compression is at a very very healthy 250psi across all 4 when stone cold.

Phil is onto it, they use a rocker arm setup with an adjustable tappet.

Brent is saying it is getting way too much fuel on startup... like serious amounts. It's blowing black smoke when it's cranking over. Possible MAP sensor fail... I'm going in tomorrow with the Hondata SManager software and my copy of the tune so we can see what exactly is happening - I'm all quite new to this, so to have a tuner who is willing to actually talk me through the process and explain the different variables to me is really quite something.

Will keep you guys updated.

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Well,

Today has not been a good day... the car has been plagued with starting problems for the last 6 weeks or so, it has finally given up on starting and I have totally run out of ideas - have checked igintion, fuel, timing etc the works and all is well.

So I take it down to Speedworks (local tuner/workshop) and receive a call this morning saying my compressions are not so flash (150-100-100-120) and the leakdown test has revealed the compression drop seems to be caused by leakage through the inlet valves...

Also Brent @ Speedworks noted that the fuel pressure is too high, (70psi) this could be a cause for the high fuel usage and overfuelling at light load.

Watch this space - it may be cause for my first thorough engine rebuild.

Ok the valve clearances have been redone, compression is at a very very healthy 250psi across all 4 when stone cold.

Phil is onto it, they use a rocker arm setup with an adjustable tappet.

Brent is saying it is getting way too much fuel on startup... like serious amounts. It's blowing black smoke when it's cranking over. Possible MAP sensor fail... I'm going in tomorrow with the Hondata SManager software and my copy of the tune so we can see what exactly is happening - I'm all quite new to this, so to have a tuner who is willing to actually talk me through the process and explain the different variables to me is really quite something.

Will keep you guys updated.

Sorry I am confused - the compression drops down when it is hot or the compressions are good now after adjusting the tappets??

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Compressions are fine when clearances are adjusted... they keep tightening for some reason. The car has not been able to start for 2 weeks now....

It has been suggested that it is to do with the heavier valve spring pressure... but I was told the valves had been upgraded to stainless items.

The plot thickens, either way.

I'm very keen to learn more about the tuning aspect though.

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normally valve clearances tightening up is caused by the valve recessing into the head - quite common on older cars with non-hardened valve seats running unleaded and no additive. However that is a stupid thing to say as your head will definitely have hardened valve seats.

I am not an engine reconditioner so I am not sure if this is physically possible but could the valve seats be recessing into the head somehow or could the sealing face of the valve be wearing away????

Only other option I can imagine is that your valves stems are stretching and this has nothing but bad ending spelled on it..

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Yeah it's difficult to find info! Nah no one has a clue... so I'll keep on reporting.

What I will likely do, is once it's running/starting (and I will inform as to what is causing it to not start) is drive it for a while, and periodically check the clearances, to see if they're going out of whack etc.

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what is the tappet adjustment mechanism? maybe missing some kind of locking whatsit? the head has been rebuilt (i.e. tampered with) so something could have been missed out.

Is this the first time you have had to adjust the valve clearances?

Fiat head swap might solve it, direct actuation/no rockers+solid shims.

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Love the direct actuation stz, Alfa was the same. To adjust, take shim out, get new shim, put shim in check clearance, take shim out, grind shim, aaaaaand repeat.

It is very very possible the solution has been found. Datalogging revealed MAP sensor was reading -29.5"/psi when the car WAS NOT RUNNING. How can a car create vacuum if it's not even going... managed to get it starting (albeit shittily) and the manifold pressure was 11.6"/psi and it's a bit all.... HAAAAANG ON. Why have I got positive inlet manifold pressure, this is a NATURALLY ASPIRATED MOTOR VEHICLE. So... a quick check of the pinouts on the ECU showed fluctuation MAP sensor voltage... a quick trace of the wire found a dodgy crimp connection to the ECU just under the dash.

Solder. Cool. Turn key. Car starts straight away and idles perfectly.

*facepalm*

So, we'll see what happens in the morning... if it starts, chances are life is good. Also going to quickly chuck it on the dyno, and run it up to check AFR's and see if the extremely high fuel pressure is justified... then it's done and dusted, but I will keep a wary eye on the valve clearances.

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Love the direct actuation stz, Alfa was the same. To adjust, take shim out, get new shim, put shim in check clearance, take shim out, grind shim, aaaaaand repeat.

It is very very possible the solution has been found. Datalogging revealed MAP sensor was reading -29.5"/psi when the car WAS NOT RUNNING. How can a car create vacuum if it's not even going... managed to get it starting (albeit shittily) and the manifold pressure was 11.6"/psi and it's a bit all.... HAAAAANG ON. Why have I got positive inlet manifold pressure, this is a NATURALLY ASPIRATED MOTOR VEHICLE. So... a quick check of the pinouts on the ECU showed fluctuation MAP sensor voltage... a quick trace of the wire found a dodgy crimp connection to the ECU just under the dash.

Solder. Cool. Turn key. Car starts straight away and idles perfectly.

*facepalm*

So, we'll see what happens in the morning... if it starts, chances are life is good. Also going to quickly chuck it on the dyno, and run it up to check AFR's and see if the extremely high fuel pressure is justified... then it's done and dusted, but I will keep a wary eye on the valve clearances.

Good stuff man hopefully that has solved ur issue, I thought the Hondatas were a plug and play jobbie though so why is some one using dodgy crimp clamps?

So the money you were thinking about spending on a rebuild can go towards cams and other excitng head parts

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Haha we'll see, tbh I'd rather spend it on the KP. This things kind of just my daily... (ish)

Hondatas aren't plug and play as such.

http://www.hondata.com/s300socketing.html

That'll explain it far better than I can - think socketing an ECU (a la Nissan) but with slightly more depth.

However, the S300 is OBD1 compatible only (far far far more tuner friendly), which means to run an OBD2 loomed car such as my Torneo a base OBD1 Honda ECU is required - in my case the base ECU is from an EG4 Civic, SOHC VTec D15B... this then requires an adaptor loom to plug from the OBD1 ECU, to the OBD2 loom, and some cutting and splicing of wires. Which is what the MAP sensor wire was.

Tein Monoflex coilovers are actually coming, by the way. No more D2's.

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