Steelies Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 i'm gona buy me some waterwetter for the trip to beach hop and see if it does anything to my average running temp of in-the-red-all-the-time degrees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 gota remeber, if your cooling system is shit that water wetter does fack all its only good if the coolant its self its the weak link having the system profesionaly cleaned first is a better option and have your 'in the red' temperature checked, it could be your guage at fault Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 ah, all good points. chur. cooling has always been a weak point in the coon, had the rad rodded/flushed etc a while back but have a better one to go in soon anyway,that will allow for a mech fan. not enough room at the mo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 arrrrgggh the whole idea of an Electric Water Pump is that it pumps 80litres or 120 litres of water PER MINUTE!! compared to a standard water pump which does feck all plus when motor is at max revs or close to it the water pump ends up cavitating and just slushing the water around rather then pumping it due to it spinning like crazy.. definitly EWP = win or atleast find out how much flow your standard shitty pump has then compare it to a EWP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Ive always been told that if you flow too much water thru the rad it doesnt have time to cool it. Aparently more flow isnt always the answer, this sounbds true to me but could be porkies as Ive never tried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 arrrrggghthe whole idea of an Electric Water Pump is that it pumps 80litres or 120 litres of water PER MINUTE!! compared to a standard water pump which does feck all plus when motor is at max revs or close to it the water pump ends up cavitating and just slushing the water around rather then pumping it due to it spinning like crazy.. definitly EWP = win or atleast find out how much flow your standard shitty pump has then compare it to a EWP lots of cars have "standard shitty pumps" and they all seem to work perfectly well for cooling. I can imagine that in this case the pump or flow isn't the issue and that wasting money on an EWP to solve it, won't fix a thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Ive always been told that if you flow too much water thru the rad it doesnt have time to cool it. Aparently more flow isnt always the answer, this sounbds true to me but could be porkies as Ive never tried. This would be even more true when doing burnouts as theirs not as mush air being pulled through the radiator as driving. So it'd just be pushing massive amounts of hot water through the radiator but not being able to cool it. But i'm guessing the only way you'll find out is by trial and error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 I think an electric water pump is more for being able to pump coolant through the block while the engine is shut down, and to perhaps reduce load on the motor by one less ancillary to drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 ^^ That sounds more like it to me. Also for when the car is doing huge speeds/revs, race situations, then it may be able to cool the passing water through the rad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted February 13, 2009 Author Share Posted February 13, 2009 I think an electric water pump is more for being able to pump coolant through the block while the engine is shut down, and to perhaps reduce load on the motor by one less ancillary to drive. yea as far as im aware thats the reason for them, pumping water faster doesnt cool your car better unless ur pump is not sufficent, the longer the water stays in the block the hotter it gets for sure, but if ur pumping it through the block faster then your pumping it through the rad faster too which means less time to cool i made a meke as shroud at work today went to fit it and now my fan touches my front pulley!!! the shroud only sits like 20mm off the rad core too im not sure if making one 10mm deep will allow enough air to flow through the core?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 sounds like your stuck then do sad shit like retard ignition, run less boost, use pure water and raise bonnet shite i know but i may knock off a few degrees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 doesnt an engine thats retarded run hotter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 i made a meke as shroud at work today went to fit it and now my fan touches my front pulley!!! What's on the other side of the rad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKAZ Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Have done this on race cars running pretty much max revs all the time. Grind evet second vane off the waterpump. Massive gains on my old RX4 which cooked quite regular prior to the mod.... doesnt an engine thats retarded run hotter? not to my knowledge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 doesnt an engine thats retarded run hotter? nah most new ecu's will add some retards into you spark plugs when the temperatures get hothot when the ignition is advanced your engine is basicaly compressing an already expanding mass which generates more heat thats the best i can explain anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 take your bonnet off and turn ya heater on is your manifold/dump pipe hpc coated or wrapped to lessen the heat dissipation from the it? turbo beanie maybe? get as much heat out of the engine bay so you can drag cool air through it. hows ya oil temp layin down a descent patch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 doesnt an engine thats retarded run hotter? If to retardard then yes. I think said person just means drop it a little. Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isnowi Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Just a thought, how are your water lines set up? being that the engine was not configured as a longitudinal mount and that several things need changing to make it rwd, perhaps looking at the bits that aren't as designed by the factory could give you some idea of what's not working. Where's the thermostat in your system? do you have areas in your piping that could be airlocked? Also water wetter does essentially the same thing as adding detergent to your system, ie reduces surface tension allowing better heat transfer from metal to the water. Cheers, Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 doesnt an engine thats retarded run hotter? If to retardard then yes. I think said person just means drop it a little. Gaz yes thats what i meant, like wind it back 3 or 4 degrees. Running a retarded ignition is exactly what it says on the tin can't see a retarded ignition getting hot, wouldn't it just be flat and powerless and throw heaps of unburnt fuel out the exhaust? only experience ive had did that i never ran it long enough to get hot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted February 13, 2009 Author Share Posted February 13, 2009 What's on the other side of the rad? intercooler take your bonnet off and turn ya heater on is your manifold/dump pipe hpc coated or wrapped to lessen the heat dissipation from the it? turbo beanie maybe? get as much heat out of the engine bay so you can drag cool air through it. hows ya oil temp layin down a descent patch? guna space the bonnet exhaust manifold and dump pipe are wrapped and turbo has a beanie Just a thought, how are your water lines set up? being that the engine was not configured as a longitudinal mount and that several things need changing to make it rwd, perhaps looking at the bits that aren't as designed by the factory could give you some idea of what's not working.Where's the thermostat in your system? do you have areas in your piping that could be airlocked? Also water wetter does essentially the same thing as adding detergent to your system, ie reduces surface tension allowing better heat transfer from metal to the water. Cheers, Dan im running the line from the rear of the head under the inlet manifold with the thermo housing sitting just by the throttle lines are the same size as a vr4 basically no airlock as runs fine temp everywhere else i have run the heater pipes from the rear of the water pump to the thermo housing to premote flow when the cars cold so the water doesnt get trapped in the head with the thermo being so far away, was possibly thinking maybe this doesnt help as when the car heats up its just circulating a decent quantity of water that never gets cooled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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