sentra Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 i have teh gearz but im a terrible painter teach me to prepare and paint single pot system as if i was a complete noob in a simple 10 step list pls. assuming ripply but straight panels starting with noozle sizes for what what fillers to use where progressing thru etch/high fill(spray bog?) to top coat go (am renaming boat ginger nuts and want to paint it all the gingernuts colours) love you. unless this has allready been covered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 theres a big paint thread, not sure if it applies to boats though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 the paint thread is huge. too huge in some ways. It would be good to have a simplified list of steps from which to then go and look in the paint thread for info on each step type of thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 Need someone who is a painter to write a mega big tech paint article and cover everything for beginners to experts. There is so much to know/cover from prep to buffing it would have to be massive. Perhaps someone knows of some good links? I couldn't really find much when i was doing my car but I'm useless at finding shit on the net. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Should paint the sev Desert Storm Sand. Steelin ur nooks in mai rota Nah, but seriously, agree hardcore with simplifying the paint thread. I had a peruse of it earlier this year and had to quit life for like 3 weeks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MZ ROLA Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 heres a basic outline of what i do.. (for a car) ... everyone does it there own way tho...for 2k assuming the car is bare metal (or parts are) 1. treat metal areas with a metal conditioner (rust converter, deoxidine, jenolite.. there are lots of different kinds) ... follow instructions for what ever product you are using 2. etch prime the metal conditioned areas there are a few different kinds of etch *catalyst etch mixing ratio is usualy 1:1 - 1.4mm set up is fine *single pack etch which is just sprayed on no mixing (you can thin if needed 1.4mm-1.8mm) * filler etch primers with a mixing ratio like 2:1 so big setup 1.8mm+ (what ever you would use for filler primer usualy) * my favorite PPG DP40 1:1 ... 1.4mm set up is fine once the metal is treated you can begin panel - i usualy give the suspected areas that need paneling a surface primer (2:1 you may also want to thin down i used a 1.4mm set up for this as well) then a wet on wet guide coat (some old basecoat maybe even spray cans sprayed on lightly aka shadow coat) block this back with P240 the areas that need to be filled will still have guide coat umm fix what needs to be fixed with panel beating hammers, filler, spray bog (not really that necessary unless large sections of the car are wavy as fuck) keep using guide coat untill your happy with panel repairs (make sure any reexposed bare metal is treated as above - dont bog ontop of baremetal) prepsol before bogging one your pretty happy with how straight it is prime the whole car with a good 4 or so coats (first coat being light as like shadow coat to help the primer stick better) of filler primer mixing ration 4:1 - can be thinned down up to 20% 1.8mm + setup (the bigger the set up the less coats needed ) then another full guide coat block that all back with P400 make sure its still straight (small imperfections can be filled with "3M Putty Cote" and does not need to be primer before basecoat prepsol before primer once you are finaly happy with the overall panel do a last light guide coat a block with p800 wet once its all off hit with your basecoat (1:1 - 1.4mm setup) or direct gloss (2:1 can be thinned up to 20% 1.4 -1.8mm) if using basecoat use a tack rag between coats to eliminate dust contamination as much as possible once you have good coverage hit with your clear coat which also comes in many differnt kinds usualy 1.4mm -1.8mm .. prepsol before basecoat but not after the above is just a rough guide, whenever buying paint products be sure to ask for a data sheet and follow the manufacturers instructions for best results data sheet should tell you mixing ratios, paint viscosity, reconmended gunset up, flash off times, reconmended paint tempreture, drying times, psi and a heap of other intresting crap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MZ ROLA Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 oh this is handy as to .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 dont bog ontop of baremetal Whoops I was actually told thatbog sticks best to baremetal. I rust treated the baremetal then bogged straight on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 whats the best way to paint steel brackets etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 dont bog ontop of baremetal Whoops I was actually told thatbog sticks best to baremetal. I rust treated the baremetal then bogged straight on. we always just give it a rough sand to give it something to key into Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanners Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 whats the best way to paint steel brackets etc? I reckon take it to the powder coaters, that shit is soooo cheap and pretty nice to look at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 several people have told me that powder coating is very brittle and comes off pretty easily, myth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 its ok untill it gets chipped,then it just flakes off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MZ ROLA Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 I rust treated the baremetal then bogged straight on. thats sweet as aow... as long as it is treated it should be fine...etch is just another step against preventing it coming back people who paint cars by hand are just trying to replicate as well as they can the manufacturers painting assembly line thing, except we have less kool toys bog will stick well to bare metal ... but it is porus (absorbs shit ie water) most people with prime it.. and drive it around the weather will absorb through the primer and bog and then its gunna rust out faster than if you had treated it ... i guess if ur gunna bog primer base and clear straight away it should be ok but yeah i wouldn't do it but im paranoid haha especially in old cars.. *Rust Never Sleeps* i just realised the original poster wanted help with laquer ... my bad... all prep should be the same i guess 1K rust prevention like "wattyl super etch" then panel with laquer the only thing your mixing is the paint and general purpose thinner so all mixing ratios are in reguards to that... surface primer = 2:1 filler primer = 4:1 basecoat is always 1:1 and clear coat is also 1:1 after last coat of clear (do heaps when using laquer) you flat off the entire car (sand it smooth without cutting through the clearcoat) with P1200 you can get it in sheets P1200 wet or you can get it dry in disks for your da sander ... once the car is flatted off buff it to give gloss... laquer is crappy tho imo, no chip protection, no uv protection, fades fast to name a few, only upside i see is it dosnt fuck with your health as much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 Health smelth Also a note on etch primmers.. Dont use the shit stuff from supercheap or even repco, it is shit, the cans are shit, the nozzels are shit the paint is shit.... Its just shit. The wattle stuff as mentiuon above is mint as is another one which I will post up next time I walk to my garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 Wattyl Super-Etch gets my vote too. Good shit and available in convienient aerosol cans. I bog to bare steel. A guy whose work lasts years told me to and although I understand the porosity of filler I still do it. So far so good - but I don't drive around with primer on. Even washing a car with a patch of bare bog on will show a water stain in the bog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MZ ROLA Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 yeah that super etch is pretty great i use it on my projects that have been sitting around when i see rust comming through i give a quick sand rub on some metal conditioner and brush on some etch until i can be bothered painting it properly... brackets - if it was me ill take it to a acid dipper they will dip it and etch it then you can paint it what ever colour you want... ive done that with my door hindges. lol @ health smealth cyanide lungs suck wear a mask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted May 12, 2008 Author Share Posted May 12, 2008 talked to some boat painters and ended up using 2pot epotec high fill and a foam roller for the high fill shit read the other shit and will start blocking it 2mo/more bog and next highfill next wkeend. its far more rippley/fucked then i thought/ got a window of oppertunity to do it in empty factory so cars get no attention this month. big ripply curves ftl have to paint it matte black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MZ ROLA Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 spray bog it! think it cost me 50 bux for a litre its like 25:1 mixing ratio, ive also heard of people rollering on thick as fuck filler primer to get rid of the anoying wavy/ cellulite look ... never tried it myself tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted May 12, 2008 Author Share Posted May 12, 2008 ill ask a bit more about spraybog this week at paint supplyer but, how thick can you get it on?/do you put it on with a pressure pot/airless sprayer type setup?/as hard as normal finishing bog to sand? it sounds like what i need,/probibly just convincing myself theres an easy way that doesnt really exist does that spraybog stuff look like severe acne when its sprayed on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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