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just have to remember that rod brakes were the norm just a few years prior, there was little traffic on the roads, roads themselves were poor and usually dirt, and speeds were much less.

 

an emergency stop would be 100-200m distance from 40mph, with only a pair of milking cows for spectators

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Oh boy, 

fuel gauge was acting fairly suspect.  was fine before (infact pretty accurate for such an old piece of lucas electrics)

brainstorming

- gauge probably needs calibration, might have been knocked

-wires are probably falling to bits

-sender is probably ok, looked ok when i had the tank out and apart

 

tank out

- i put a new extra thick foam seal (window seal type stuff for a house i guess) around the tank hole.

- I put several nice thick layers of paint on everything

- i patted myself on the back for doing such a good job

 

Will make a ground wire somewhere from the tank to the body.

 

Was hoping to go for a drive with my 1/3rd of a tank today too  :huh:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my cylinder head in the shop right now.

Should come back minus 0.060", taking compression from 6.5 to circa 7.5

(the old alloy race heads they used to make were produced as 8:1, and recommended that they were machined out to suit your valves and lower comp)

 

The old ads claim a 10% power increase (in the 50's you didnt have to back that up however)

 

So original

27.5hp

 

Shaved Head

30.25hp

 

Going from single to twin carbs and exhaust is estimated to be another 10% on top of that

33hp baby

 

extra rpm is gained too

With everything combined i should be expecting a new top speed pushing 80mph and heavily increased acceleration

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whipped the head back off

 

it would appear that some loctite (one of the studs had come loose) had made its way out of the hole and onto the block surface.

Hopefully thats the problem sorted

 

 

edit:

ordered a new headgasket, figured the old one has been reused a bit much. Getting blowby into the waterways

Looks like all the pistons are 1mm over size (little surprised to see it in metric, the last ones i saw were in thou's)

So, that takes my 918cc up to 950cc.  Thats getting into morry thou territory.  Bores look nice, no damage or noticable wear, breathes pretty heavily tho.

Will start saving up my money for a rering, or bore out to +060", new valve stemseals and oversize exhaust valves.

 

Heres hoping this gasket sorts it, if not im so done

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Tried some copper gasket spray?

Nah, the old gaskets have obviously been on and off a few too many times.  Really was time for a new one.  Over night delivery and i have a new one to go on for not much more than a can of gasket spray

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New gasket on and seems to seal up well.

Now its just being a pain and not starting up

can get it running for about a second or 2 but thats about it. 

 

I resoldered up the fuel line the other day (filled it with water incase it may explode on me) so i figured there may have been some left in there.

flushed the line out with fresh fuel and emptied the carb bowl.

Now i see the battery is flat, so am waiting on it charging before i try again.

 

getting good/same spark as before, leads are all correct, dizzy only goes in 1 way.

checked the compression (cold, plugs out, WOT) all are about 110psi (fresh rebuild on a 918 sidevalve, hot, would give maybe 130 max so that seems pretty good)

 

If i still cant get it going il swap the standard head back on and see what happens.  Cant imagine the higher comp head is casing it tho

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sweet, fired up just now quite happily.

 

had left the distributor upside down and a small amount of oil had leaked inside. so cleaned that up

flushed the carb out with fresh fuel incase there was water contamination, let it dry and refilled

charged the battery, must have run it pretty low.

 

will fully reassemble tomorrow and give it a few tests, will be interesting to see if iv gained much performance.

Probably should have lapped the valves back in while i was there.

Will also recheck the compression when hot to get an idea of how tired this thing is, not for any real reason other than interest 

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130psi across all cylinders, negligible difference 

squirted some oil down the plug holes, got it all over the valves tho, so not very accurate as to rings or valves i suppose

150 psi across all cylinders, not too many percent higher.

 

 

Went to set the headlamps a few days ago.  turns out all the adjustment screws are rounded off and bent.

Just replaced them all with stainless cap screws.  Lush

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Have you ever checked the cam timing on this?

I drove one of these as my first car and when we pulled the motor down for a rebuild once, and checked thing out we noticed the cam timing was out by a tooth. This was due to it being assembled like most engines with the dots on the gears lining up. However those dots were actually supposed to line up with marks on the original timing chain. It turns out that most after market chains had no markings so cam timing was wrong.

However correct procedure was detailed in the manual - checking valve opening WRT to TDC or some such thing?

 

After correcting it had a lot more power (second gear up a certain hill where previously could only manage first!)

 

Love what you are doing with it.

 

cheers

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Yea this one would push 60 (im guessing, the speedo needle waves as much as any minor)

Iv only taken it up and down out block roads which have speed islands errywhere.

 

No doubt itl get up to speed once im on the open road, im not really getting it out of 3rd around here

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The 3rd gear flatspot is quite noticeable now, however it seems if you just give it some welly up till 4th everything is gravy

 

Acceleration is still laughable in modern traffic, but given an extra second or 2 i can keep up.

So much difference than driving the commer, its almost silent (except for the exhaust out the back) and there are no vibrations.  The steering wheel doesnt even wobble around.

 

i dont think i like this modern motoring 

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