dylan

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Yeah I know about new tech.. I've seen quite a few Aussie x series coupes crack the bog out in that joint after the lead was removed,  replaced with an epoxy filler. 

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Apart from environment/health issues what is the problem with lead as a filler? Just slower quarter mile times?

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It's no where near as easy to put on as bog.. In fact it's a cunt in comparison, just no point in using it. Its outdated. 

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When I was doing super yacht stuff I used to use West System 407 microbaloons on cars instead of poly' bog all the time. Worked well.

 

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4 hours ago, Bellicose said:

When I was doing super yacht stuff I used to use West System 407 microbaloons on cars instead of poly' bog all the time. Worked well.

 

 

Ah, this is the info I was after. I have plenty of west systems epoxy but was wondering which one to use 407 or 410. I guess would guess 407 for initial lay down then 410 to finish it off.. Did you just use standard bog prep procedures? What surface did you have under it? 2k, 1k or steel? Soz for all the questions.. I'll be putting it over epotec 408.

 

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19 hours ago, yetchh said:

 

Ah, this is the info I was after. I have plenty of west systems epoxy but was wondering which one to use 407 or 410. I guess would guess 407 for initial lay down then 410 to finish it off.. Did you just use standard bog prep procedures? What surface did you have under it? 2k, 1k or steel? Soz for all the questions.. I'll be putting it over epotec 408.

 

I just used 407 and put filler primer over that. Haha, i used to use Epotec as my base under the 407 on automotive stuff and it was mint.

Wouldn't mind getting ahold of more 407 but can't justify the cost for the small amounts i'd use tho'.

We used International marine epoxys on the stuff at work because of warranty tho'.

Be sure to mix Epotec absolutely precise with the hardener or it'll stay soft for far to long and cause drama down the line.

 

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Damn, so I've almost certainly gone through the clear in a few spots. 

What's the go with prepping the surface for reclear coating? I really really don't want it to peel off in a year or two. 

 

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You can do a test patch/panel if worried. Its not the end of the world it happens that clear goes on in two separate coats due to errors or some fancy places like to block down the clear and apply more after. Generally its keyed with rough scotch-brite or say 800 grit.

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ive been told by a professional painter mate, that ill probably need to lay down more basecoat otherwise itll show up where its rubbed through (several pretty prominent places unfortunatly) and the paint is very metalic

im pretty sure i have enough basecoat to do this, but can always grab another litre and mix it in before i start so its 100% the same all over. im just super worried about fucking it up again. though ive learnt some lessons. so maybe not too bad. 

~fuck~

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If you have rubbed through You will definitely need to put base coat down and do a blend so you dont color the whole panel out again and waste paint.

Have you done blends?  The danger is the metallics are difficult to blend without leaving a lighter "ring" around the area where you have sprayed base coat.

 

 

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5 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

Damn, so I've almost certainly gone through the clear in a few spots. 

What's the go with prepping the surface for reclear coating? I really really don't want it to peel off in a year or two. 

 

Have you only gone through the clear? If so just flatten with 800 or 1200 then just re-clear the whole panel. Easy as mate.

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Yeah just the clear, though there is one micro spot where primer has shown. I'm not finished yet so this could change. 

I was told by another pro that since its metallic, unless I blow over more base the sanded through bits will show up clearly? And when you put water over the areas, they don't dissappear. 

Unfortunately on closer inspection, I've gone through on quite a few areas so it's going to be a whole car job again I thinks. 

It's not just more important than ever that I get the clear right, and I'm quite worried about this, but have learnt a bunch of lessons 

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So my dad bought a pretty cool old toyota. and it needs painting, we just want it a nice solid crisp white and as budget as possible. so were keen to use 2k white, and especially after seeing MrMk1s struggles with his datsun, but ultimate success using baslac. we'll go with that product. 

my question is what sort of primer should i use underneath it. the car is plenty straight enough, but we dont want to go to the hassle of fill primer and blocking it back. so just want a primer to go under the 2k white and call it a day. we want the car on the road, not in the garage!

also basic technique for this system? what grit sandpaper should the body be done in before the primer, and then what grit sand paper (if at all?) should we scuff the primer to before the 2k topcoat?

 

cheers!

 

and another question back related to the crown. ive dont a bunch more reading and watching videos and came across someone saying that the new age high solid 2k clears only need two coats? is that true, because if so, i think i found the root cause of my issues, i put about 5 coats of clear on (and i also dont think i allowed enough flash time). because thats what i would have done with 1k clear when ive done motorbike tanks ect and never had issues with runs. but never considered the fact that that product used alot more solvent. 

how many coats of clear would you recommend? 

 

Cheers again!

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Yeah clear coat only needs two coats.

One sorta 3/4 coat little bit dry coat and then one nice wet coat. Takes a bit to get the hang of clear as its kids hard to see.... being clear and all.....

 

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Also spies hecker 2k 275 is an awsome easy to spray product. Definitely would reccomend it.

 

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You can get away with two wet coats of clear 2k urethane. But 5 coats is fine, I would put shit load on a car I was keeping for ages so I had heaps to work with when correcting defects/scratches etc in the future. Premium car brands generally have much thicker paint with heaps of clear, its a good thing to have more to work with in the future.

It can be hard to spray as said above need to put it on pretty thick and cannot see it. IMO its safer to spray it a little thinner with more coats and deal with the orange peel later than try get that glass finish that you can get when everything is dialed in perfect.

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Also for repainting a car with 2k, you want a epoxy primer layer between the old paint and the new. Almost any will do but they have all sorts of different properties some sand better than others etc. Some are labelled as a sealer primer for this very use case.

How do you think you will get away with out blocking it down? that is asking for a shit outcome. I would do a test in the boot or something and make sure the epoxy sits on the existing paint good (which 99.9% chance it will). Then I would do urethane 2k primer as it is the easiest to sand and block on, then top coat. Like 100% when you block it you will see all the stone chips and low/high spots and they will need filler and attention, will look like shit with just primer and topcoat no blocking or sanding at all.

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Last couple paint jerbs I have used carmaster 2k primer over existing base and clear paintjob before blocking back to remove shopping trolley dings and chips. Then base coat over that.

Will say on your data sheets what kind of grit to use. Primer usually sticks to anything from 240 to 600. Depends on condition of existing. I used 240 to remove all the clearcoat from panels where it had started peeling. Then 2 coats of primer (not highbuild/filler) which was enough to give a scratch free surface.

You can then do a wet on wet topcoat with it(the one I used check your data sheet)

It has a 24-48hr or so window where the base will stick to the primer so you don't have to scuff it back.

 

Depends how good the existing is, if it's good, scuff some back and try some 2k white to see if it sticks. Probably will if it's a good factory paint that you have cleaned 6 times and dewaxed

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i may not have explained it properly. (and i also havnt laid eyes on the car in real life yet so things may change) but the car has had a heap of body work done already and its quite straight now. 

we will definitley sand it with sanding blocks, but we dont want to go to the effort of sanding down hi fill primer and getting the thing dead straight like ive done with the crown, we simply dont have that sort of spare time (which is why the crown has taken my 9 months and counting to paint) and dad just wants a cool old Toyota to drive around in again, he was just going to rattle can white over the repaired spots untill i convinced him to put something somewhat decent on it. 

its also a budget thing. 

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