CorollaGT Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I was reading through the hobby car manual last night, specifically the section about passenger compartment areas and rollcages/rollbars. Am I correct in reading that if the rollcage bars are 100% outside of the 'A' category passenger protection zone a full cage can be certed under the cert process rather than requiring an authority card? it appeared from the drawing that provided full harness or web type 3 point seatblets are used this is 320mm wide centred on the seat and 700mm long arc from the hip point of the front seats at the horizontal and traced around in an arc to the back angle of the seats.not a major issue one way or the other really but reading it made me think this could potentially save having to get yet another piece of paper and pay another fee Thats most likely what the 4x4 guys get done with their cages, I know my workmate had his Safari certed and I'm fairly certain the "cage" was included Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I believe its ok to have a roll cage provided it does not extend past the front seats. Ie a half cage. As soon as you go past the front seats ie lateral bars thats when you'll need to have it homologated and a road authority card applied for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Yeah my datto has cert for a roll cage. Is thee anything special about the rivets that hold cert tags on? Mine is going to have to come off to fix a fucking rust hole. And i know that seppo cars have fancy rivets that hold the VIN tag onto the dashboard. How about cert plates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I believe its ok to have a roll cage provided it does not extend past the front seats. Ie a half cage. As soon as you go past the front seats ie lateral bars thats when you'll need to have it homologated and a road authority card applied for.That was my understanding until reading the section of the hobby car manual pertaining to this, which indicates that a full cage can potentially be certed without a motorsport authority card if it doesnt intrude into the 'A' passenger protection area. hence my question to confirm this. Is that a full cage Bart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Does "A" refer to the A-pillar, Tom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Interior_Impact.pdf Have a read through that. in short- if its forward of the seats, and not in the 'a' zone- its 'b' zone. You cant have a roll cage in the b zone in a unibody vehicle, with a fixed roof, without an authority card. Note the difference in the glossary at the end between a roll bar and a roll cage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Is thee anything special about the rivets that hold cert tags on? nah just normal rivets are fine, you might need a big flat scraper to get it off without damaging it, the sticker on the back is pretty strong if it was put on properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 What about Vin tag rivets Cletus. I, erm, need to pull mine off to fix rust. Too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I had a cert knocked back a couple of weeks ago ( LVVTA randomly reviews paperwork and pictures sent to them) for this reason- the owner had painted the engine bay and re attached the vin number with stainless screws to match everything else. Legally whats meant to happen if there is ANY sign of the vin number being fiddled with, is the owner has to take the car back to a TSDA (testing station that does re reg)to get written confirmation that the vin is attached to the right vehicle and is attached in the correct way (riveted and stuck down) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Was that a pretty late model vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 no, a vc valiant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Thanks man. Don't use screws, gottit. (Haha) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 That was my understanding until reading the section of the hobby car manual pertaining to this, which indicates that a full cage can potentially be certed without a motorsport authority card if it doesnt intrude into the 'A' passenger protection area. hence my question to confirm this. Is that a full cage Bart? Nah, only a half cage. The owner before me took it out. I bought a 6 point bolt together cage from a written off rally car. It has number stamped on it and all. lol However, I fucked around too long fitting it to the car, and I think the rules have changed for the Hoop size now. (Although I think that it's still okay for drag racing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Interior_Impact.pdf Have a read through that. in short- if its forward of the seats, and not in the 'a' zone- its 'b' zone. You cant have a roll cage in the b zone in a unibody vehicle, with a fixed roof, without an authority card. Note the difference in the glossary at the end between a roll bar and a roll cage ah yep ok. baffling as to why unibody makes any difference when the concern is hitting parts of yourself on the cage but rules are rules. maybe to allow for space frame things? I don't know/doesn't really matter. Was only a thought that would make life marginally simpler anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I was thinking about replacing all the nuts bolts in my car with brand new ones painted matt pink. Also I want to remove any spring washers and replace them with nylock nuts. Do I need a cert ? Serious question by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 You're a worry, Andrew. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Was almost serious. But I have a customer who has asked me if they can change all the nuts and bolts on there project with aftermarket ones (Bunnings styles or similar). They also want to remove all the spring washers and replace with nylocks. VTNZ has told them the bolts need certing. Could this be true ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I would think you are ok, except for bolts holding together steering suspension and braking components those should be left factory. many of them would be nyloc anyway. bolts you could paint but you cant replace them with any old bolt if they are holding those parts together. often they are specific material spec or have specific thread lengths and shoulder lengths. so sure if you can find a new bolt the exact same in all aspects. also you don't want paint where things need to fit etc. as it makes the bolt thicker and it wont fit. also paint in the wrong place could give you an off torque reading. also the paint will likely get ruined if you have to torque the fastener with any great amount of force. also you dont want nylocs where they can get hot and melt near exhaust or heat generating brake components. so basically cosmetic stuff yes. but to me it seems like a rod for your own back. get them cleaned and re passivated or whatever and be done with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 what tom said. theres a whole section of the hobby car manual just for nuts and bolts and stuff like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soiled Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Mounting an AGM battery in the boot, will it need to be in a box like a normal unsealed battery or will a base plate with four m10 8.8 bolts through the floor with washers and nylons underneath and a metal strap holding it be enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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