Rookie

Yea, my bet is you broke them, I have done it before, maybe the rubber bit in your socket has come out?

Yes fuel requirements change to keep the same afr, you can bodgily calculate HP from fuel requirements too if you know the dead time of your injectors.

I was going to say Palmside, Simon has always looked after me.

I was going to suggest rjp, glad you found it.

Fuck, so choice. Good work man.

I thought you had already ground off the other tooth, but it doesn't matter now, your car goes, ya!

Check out the re registering thread in tech, I posted up there how to keep your black plates. If you dont and it gets registered with white ones they are gone forever.

Good work man, I'm glad you got that cleared up. I thought one of the other guys told you to do that a few pages back? Perhaps you missed it?

Isn't npt nominal bore? So 3/4 npt into a 1" hole sounds right, because to get a 3/4" hole you will need extra meat for the fitting, someone correct me if I am wrong but I think you are on the right track Russell.

Sorry, I never really answered the question about how it is done. The answer is data logging. Lap times at this point are kind of irrelevant, you need to be monitoring g loads, tyre temps, and cornering speed, driver inputs (that one is crucial), etc, once you have got all that under control, then you need to start working towards getting the car setup for driving style. Then you can start creeping up on lap times once you have used all the data to maximise g loads and cornering speed and your driving is consistent enough to make it meaningful. So yes it kind of is above most OSers, but only because we struggle to make our cars run consistently hahaha

Yes, but what Keegan was saying that if you are serious about it you will have a bunch of settings for the car for taupo, and a bunch of settings for hampton. If you don't you are leaving lap time on the table. If you are wearing the one side of the car more than the other then you aren't getting the maximum amount of grip available and you should change settings until you get it a good as possible. I know that is a whole bunch easier said than done, but the fact it is correct holds true.

I'm pretty sure you connect the ECU and the logger together with CAN, so no need to do extra wires for that. I wouldn't use any gauges, and just have a digital dash/tablet that you can cycle through to see specific things if you want/ when the warning light comes on. Well that is how I would do it, I dunno about you but I dont spend a lot of time looking at my gauges when I'm driving in anger hahaha.

Yea absolutely, well I haven't used one yet, but that is what it should be able to do haha.

A telemetry setup monitors what's going on with the car(g loads, speed, gps, wheel slip, shock loads etc), and driver inputs(accelerator, brakes, steering inputs, as well as gear), basically it gives you a picture of what the car is doing rather than seat of the pants feel. This is the one I was talking about. https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/racecapturepro/ The ones on eBay are legit, and you do t have to worry about compatibility as long as you get a data sheet that tells you x pressure = y resistance as you can input it into the ECU. Sweet as if you have a spare but it sucks having a $50 part put an end to a race day etc so worth thinking about, but like I said if you have the means, then go all out as it will make your days better and easier to find problems with you or the car hahaha

It is better to go crazy if you have the means, data is knowledge and knowledge is power. Especially as this is a race car I would look into a telemetry setup too, as there is a really good one on the market for about $500. But yea, all of those sensors plus oil temp, baro pressure, flex fuel sensor so you can run it on e85. You dont need to fork out tons for sensors either Russel, eBay is great for pressure transducers, and temp senders, and second hand flex fuel sensor out of a new Commodore would work great. I would also use ls coils and ditch the cop, as the heat will likely kill them. I dont know much about ca's but dont the factory cas die on them? I would look into running a toothed wheel on the crank as well, so that you can just use the cas as a trigger for sequential spark, that way you can change it to wasted spark at the track if it dies, no idea if that is correct but sounds reasonable in my head hahaha.

Man, there must be so many double takes when you are towing your fancy cars around with this thing, So sweet, keep up the good work.

Also, use pushlok fittings are the only option. The normal ones are a pig to put together, and stainless braid is dumb also.

They were designed specifically to be tightened and loosened a lot, which makes them ideal for use on hoses that get taken off a lot.

If that is sprayed in the og colour it will be ar501 alfa rosso. If not, then no clue haha. When I sprayed my one I used the simpler of the two ar501 codes.

You will be able to use it, but it will have shit consistency, be running all the time, and your water trap probably won't catch all the water.

Holy piss, v12 cbx is Fucken legit!!

Not unless you want to do 1m^2 at a time hahaha

That compressor will be fine as long as you take your time and let it keep on top of the pressure. Also make sure you buy a good water trap.

Yea heat soaked fuel comes from pumping it too much, so if you have massive pump, and are returning it to a surge tank you will likely have problems if you aren't driving at wot most of the time.

Lol, street cars dont need dyno work, you can easily achieve a safe 95% tune just by hooning around and using a scientific approach to your tuning method, not only that but it is fun. Don't even get me started on some of the dodgy tunes that have come from reputable dyno shops, basically doing it yourself is better most of the time.